Rethinking workwear

For those of you who have been wodnering where I have been I can safely say I have not been sewing. I have been lurking and reading and trying to avoid buying patterns and fabrics as I had the plan to finish the work wardrobe this summer. I work at a ladies gym as the club administrator, and have a mandatory top I Have to wear along with black, none fitness wear bottoms of my choice. The top was a choice of a polo shirt in white or black (w/company logo) or a yellow button shirt with darting on the front and shaped sideseams along with the same bottoms. I had stalled in the sewing as word leaked out of new uniforms being on the way. Well, they are now here. I can't post a photo as they have yet to come into my possession, but that will happen next week.

The original plan was to make up a skirt suit out of a black wool w/white pinstripe and then a shirtdress out of a black wool with a blue pinstripe for that Nautica look when combined with the yellow shirt. The goal was to make basic black not boring. So, I chose my fabric very carefully. I have an Armani wool that I was going to tailor into a wonderful pair of trousers now that I have made the HP into a TNT for me. THese are all going to have to be rethought as the new design is a raglan sleeved polo shirt with some shaping (according to the photo, anyway ... stay tune for that!). The colour is a red, but it looks to be a blue toned red so far with white accents at the seam lines. That won't do for the shirtdress or the business suit. They are dressing me down and I am not sure that I like it!

So, I have a HP Sportive Skirt suit already half done in bamboo cord that will fit the bill. The skirt is done already, lined with a remnant of silk bought for a steal at Darrell's and the matching jacket is cut and ready to go under the machine. The delay has been due to a window repair that required the computer to be relocated into the Shop as it had the only phone jack for the DSL connection. So, now that the computer is back, I have yet to set the room to rights. (I did find an old cross stitch that has been aging in the closet though ... I pulled that out and have been playing away at that again!) I have a pair of the Razor Sharps in a cashmere wool for the winter that is divine to wear! As I haven't pressed the crease in, they can be dressed down a bit.

So, all you wardrobe mavens ... how do I rework this new wardrobe to accomodate the polo shirts? Patterns already on hand and fitted include the HP Razor Sharps, the HP Sportive Skirt Suit, the Chilled Out Sweat suit and the Skinny Jeans (which aren't so skinny at my size range!); I have a DKNY pant that I have never tried but is cut out that has seamlines in the front and back that could be sharp yet casual. But would they look good in the wool? I seem to have blinders on that all I can see for these fabrics are business clothes! I need pattern suggestions please!

Fabric list: wool (tropical weight) w/white pinstripes
wool w/cashmere w/blue pinstripes
wool (midweight) with a herringbone pattern woven in
rayon linen (very lightweight)
bamboo knit
Sophia knit

I am going to have to finish that jacket and then I figure I can start on the new special project. In the spring was the First Communion Dress, two years ago it was the Cocktail Dress that was my incarnation of the HP BOllywood for the Pilot's Grad dinner. Now, I am going to work on a dress for me again! My company holds it's annual conference each year in the summer. The weekend ends in an invite only event knwon as "Top 500". It is for the top sales people in the company and for select others that have been nominated by their home clubs. Not being a sales person, my GM nominated me to go. The big finale of the event is a Hawaiian boat cruise on Lake Ontario. Thanks to MaryBeth, I now have seen the Decades of Style pattern line and fell in love with this dress pattern ... it is a 1940's wrap sundress that I have to have!!!! In the right print this could be nice Hawaiian as opposed the probably prolific tacky style that will prevail on the cruise!


I may have to play with the back a bit if I can't find a bra to go with it, but that won't be a problem. I've already warned Darrell that I need the right fabric and he is waiting with a "classic linen print" for me. Can't wait to see what it is like! I never have issues with his choices! If I do get the linen, then I may just enter this into the Threads Linen Challenge! I am thinking of trying a French seam or a Hong Kong finish or some other treatment I have never tried. Why not push my limits a bit more, right?

So I await eagerly the wardrobe advice, ladies! Maybe later we can talk about the shoes already residing in the Closet to supplement this wardrobe in the making ...

Promised Pics ...

For those who have mastered the art of patience, you are about to be rewarded ... thanks to the efforst of the Pilot, the Easter dress and Confirmation Dress photos are done and on the hard drive, so here they are! I made the same dress for each occasion, with minor changes (by request) to the sleeve design and the neckline. The floral Easter version came first and was made directly out of the envelope. I used a thin stretch cotton with a lining of yellow cotton. She likes the belt tied in front rather than the back here. The belt is meant to tie in the back but is actually long enough to wrap around the front once and then tie in back. It made for sitting through the Mass a bit uncomfortable, though, so she tied it in front.

The sleeves are way too full (she likened them to wings) and even if they were made in the chiffon asked for, I think it would be too much on her frame, so for the next version, I converted them into what I call a tulip sleeve (please correct me if I am wrong when you see the photos below). I also didn't like the way the bodice gaped at the neckline in the square shape, so I rounded it off for her. It then fit much better, but I think that if I were to do the square version again, I would have to dart out some of the neckline as the chest area fits well on her as she is a bit broad across the chest and back.

For the Communion version, I took my little fashionista to see Darrell at his shop to pick out fabric. I was thinking a nice cotton for comfort and ease, but then after talking to Denise (Darrell's wonderful assistant who happens to run her own kids label on diplay and sale at Darrell's now!), we decided on a silk dupioni skirt with a beaded silk bodice to match. Although initially against the thought of a one occassion dress, I then decided that it was time that I added to the garment history in the family. There are Baptism gowns on both sides already, but the only First Communion pieces are the headpiece and veil and purse that my sister's all wore. The head piece is now fitted to a bridal veil from my wedding, so we didn't want to take that apart, so I had nothing for my daughter to wear. So, I showed the silk to Hamster Girl and she was smitten (she loves the feel of fine fabrics and adores Darrell's shop just because of the rack of silk samples she fondles for hours on end!). Away we went home with a family piece in the making!

There were two time consuming issues with this dress: the beads and cleaning the sewing room. The sewing room needed to be purged of black lint. You see, for the past two weeks I had been sewing all black ... the cashmere wool pants, the Windbloc raincoat and the Bamboo cord Sportive skirt suit were all done in black. The cutting table and the machines all needed to be cleared before the antique white silk went anywhere near the room! The next hardest part of this dress was removing the beads from the seam allowances and to give room for the presser foot to move. Smashing each bead was preferred to the easier method of snipping the thread as that allows beads further down the thread to come off, so out came the small sewing hammer! I wrapped the head in some scrap cotton so that there was no chance at marking up the fabric. Then I was good to go!

There were many mini bridal gowns worn by her classmates (complete with veils and tiaras), but I think that this simple dress and her headband suited her much better. She loved the dress and I think it is a classic style that can be handed down to her daughter and maybe even Dino Boy's one day. This time, the ties were shortened so that one wrap in front and they were fine to tie in the back. As this dress is supposed to be mid calf length, the original ties would be very porportional if the length was not shortened as it was here. My daughter is quite the young lady when the time calls for it, but she is still very tomboyish at heart, so full length was not an option at all for her!

Here is a shot of the two of them, he counting the hours till his birthday while he sat and watched all the little "kids", mumbling about being bored when not serving on the altar! I am proud of how he let her have her day and didn't spend it all talkign about close his big day was!

Time Flies ...

Time is flying so fast here at Newman's Needle! It seems like only last week that I posted and promised pant photos. Since then, I have finished the cashemere wool pants, made a rain jacket for Dino Boy and then a dress for Hamster Girl for Easter (really a wearable muslin for her First Communion dress). I have managed also to alter a work shirt to fit much better only to have to tweak it a bit more. The photos are still AWOL. I find I am making more time to sew and to read my blog friends works, but not returning the favour by posting my own. Now that I am back in the sewinng world again, I am going to work more on posting as well.

I just got caught up over at Couturesmith where Connie is working on yet another wedding gown for her daughter's upcoming event. I smiled as she spoke about the mundane hand work and the inevitable rip stitching that comes with the end of a project. Today I spent in the work shop cutting and sewing and doing my fiar share of rip stitching as I worked with the beaded silk that makes up the bodice of Hamster Girl's First Communion Dress.

The sleeves in the original did not meet her desires as they were too wing like for her taste. So, the very full sleeve became an overlapped tulip sleep with a gathered cap. The ties were put in backwards (lining up) to the original as she likes it to wrap in front then tie in back. The beads needed removing in the seam allowances and the seamline (+1/4") to allow for a flat sewing surface. There were issues with the sleeve redesign that had me ripping the serged finish (lucky for me I don't trim the s.a. off when edge finishing at the start!) and that took a while.

All through the frustrations I kept breathing deeply. For like Connie's many wedding dresses, this is a memory project. My daughter's First Communion is tomorrow, you see, and I wanted to add a piece ot the family collection of special pieces. Both sides of the family have a baptism gown that has been handed down. There is a baby quilt made for me by my grand mother that is a constant companion to Hamster Girl in her bedroom. The head piefce that held the veils for my 3 sisters way back on their First Communion was worn for my wedding. All these memories. All these special sewing projects that have been handed down to me. This is my chance to continue the pattern and to hand something down to my children. So, no cotton for this dress. This one is beaded silk bodice with a dupioni skirt. This will be stored with my wedding dress for the future. I am pretty sure that she will be too tall for my dress, but I am sure that I can alter it to make something special for her wedding out of it.

Tomorrow my little girl walks up the aisle in her little white dress. Soon enough the time will come when she ias asking for her prom dress, then soon enough after that the "Big" white dress ... time flies. Time to take photos to freeze these moments! Tomorrow there will be lots of photos taken as she wears both dresses for her Nanna and Poppa and her Auntie who are here to share this special time. Maybe I can finish a skirt while I am at it for myself for tomorrow ... all I need to do is construct the lining and hem it. Doable before 1:00 pm???? Stay tuned!

Pants Pizazz!

I took a big step last week-end ... I cut out a pair of pants in a brown wool that has aged nicely in the stash for 2 years. Why the nerves over something I have successfully cut and fitted before? Because of the new fit. You see, I have been working with a trainer at work for the past six months (if you count the almost 5 weeks we were "paused" due to vacation and work load) and as a result, I have lost some inches. I was not sure how much this would matter until the Liz Claiborn pants I had purchased last fall began to actually fall off! So, I took a deep breath and decided that I would take a risk and go down a whole size on the pattern.

I pulled out the HP Razor Sharp pants pattern and cut out a size 14. Something I haven't done on pants since my early years of sewing (and those didn't even fit right!). Rather than make up muslin, I pulled out the brown wool and just went at it! I cut it out as a 14 as is with out any additions to the s.a. at all. When sewing, I did hedge and only use 3/8" s.a. on the s.s and the inseam, however, I did use the full 5/8" at CB&CF. I also did my standard curve adjustment (I lower the J into more of an L) as that is something that is standard for my figure. By eliminating the darts at the front and back, I have that little bit of ease that I need at the waist.

I gave them a quick try on a minute ago and held my breath while I turned into my corner mirrors ... WAHOOO!!!! IT WORKED!!!! The back looks AMAZING! I now have quite the nice butt in these pants! So, now all I have to do is to cut out the silk organza that I want to use as a lining and I will have a new pair of trousers for parent teacher night at the end of the week. The even better news is that now I can breathe easier and cut out another pair in the cashmere wool (lined again with the silk organza) as I now am certain of the fit!

I would show photos but I need to get to bed as we are expecting snow and freezing rain over night, so I will have to shovel in the morning. That means getting up early ...

This will really motivate me to continue on with the training as I definitely see a difference in the body shape even if the pounds are not dropping much! Who needs scales when you have a measuring tape???

I will post back tomorrow night after I come back from the Beaver meeting with Monkey Girl and have the lining cut out. Then I may have a photo to share as well. I will start to draft my review of the pattern as I go, but that will be posted much later in the week.

Update from the prodigal sewer ...

Hello all! I am considering renaming the Needle the Prodigal Sewer as I have been so busy that I have been neglecting the machines. In return for this extended vacation, they have nicely managed to pull lots of fluff bunnies out of thin air and leave them around the carpet. The Pattern pile has grown (Thanks, Trudy and Jeremy!) a bit as has the pile of new luscious fabrics on hand (thanks to Darrell and Ressy!). So, in an attempt to refocus my energies on something other than Scout neck scarves (a record 45 were sewn and I have 15 more to go by Monday - argh!), I want to reorg the work shop. I wanted to start last weekend but it was plastic week not paper on our recycle run. As I don't have the space in the Pilot's shop (otherwise known as the GARAGE) for that much paper (loads of scraps of paper and patterns that I really won't sew again), I waited until this weekend ... then I can start sewing in earnest!

Rather than focus on the patterns, I am going to list the fabrics and muse about the choices available to them. Maybe they will tell me which they prefer (assuming they forgive me for ignoring them). Maybe I will actually have to make a decision on my own ... sigh.

This fall I am focussing on quality fabrics for work. I figure it is an investment, so why scrimp? The only limit for work is that it must be black. No choice ... I do get a "nice" buttercup yellow shirt to wear with it, though. Too bad it is designed poorly! I have a wool suiting with a white pin stripe. That is spoken for as a Marfy pencil skirt with a back bias godet and a matching blazer. Then there is the black wool/cashmere herringbone that will either become a sleeveless wrap dress or an almost tunic length vest. The medium weight would be welcome in the winter air conditioning of the gym! The pinnacle of the pile is another cashmere wool (yup! there is a trend to my shopping these days! I am determined that basic black will not be boring at my gym!). This one is a black with a royal blue pinstripe to it. This one is screaming at me to become a princess sheath style dress that I can wear with my nice yellow ... Darrell says it would be a very "Nautica" look. THEN there is the long lengths of the Rayon Linen that I bought from Ressy last year that could also be used up for now. I see a nice looser fitting twist shirt that will go over the yellow nicely out of that. Then there is the black RPL as well that keeps fighting to the top of the pile of RPL in a box on the floor.

The navy pinstripe is screaming the loudest, but I can't bring myself to cut it first. The commotion the other fabrics will make would be unbearable! So, my thought is to pull off the twist top first out of the rayon linen and then head on over to something else! I could use some more trousers, but I think that this weave will pill at the crotch line and I don't want that. Maybe a jumper type dress?

One very important thing I do have to do before I start anything new is to re-measure myself. For the past 5 months I have been working with a trainer twice a week (OK, trying to make it twice a week, not always successful!) and have managed to dorp some more inches. Just this morning, I pulled on a tank top at the gym proshop and bought it. The clincher? It was a size MEDIUM!!! And it FIT!!!! I am now down a size on the rack so I have to see what that equates to (if anything) on the machine!

Oh, and I almost forgot ... I finally finished the HP Cheery Blossom coat from way last year! The temps got cold last week and I needed something for work, so I moved the buttons over towards the sideseam a bit and then hemmed it. I did a rush job on the sleeve hems, so I need to rip and redo it as it is not a nice as I like. I kept the lining and interlining hanging loose so it needs a bit of a trim at one or two places as well. I removed the pockets and am going to use that fabric for belt loops for the belt. I am certain that I will lose that belt without it loops or it being stitched on somehow (maybe with extra buttons in the back?). I will provide pics when the final touches are done.

I wish I was as prolific as my friend Julia over at her blog. She does such a wonderful job at her sewing and her writing and posting that I often feel jealous!

The Pilot just came home, so we are now off to see Madagasacar 2! Time spent laughing with the family is priceless!

padding

During my morning read of the online local paper, I found this little gem about how my country's bureaucrats are trying to have those "wonderful" labels found on mattresses, pillows, sofas, etc. added to (get ready for the laugh, so put your cups down!) padded BRAS, shoulder pads and other various items. Yup, I kid you not ... read on ...

Tempest in a D cup: Garment makers cry foul over padding rules

Cassandra Drudi
The Ottawa Citizen

Wednesday, September 03, 2008

OTTAWA - Canadian garment manufacturers are seething over changes to Ontario regulations governing upholstered and stuffed articles that would see such items as bras and shoulder pads treated the same as mattresses and comforters.

These businesses have one message for the government -- stuff your rules.

"There's nowhere in the world that this exists -- in the world," said Elliot Lifson, president of the Canadian Apparel Federation, an Ottawa-based association that represents hundreds of companies within the garment industry.

The Ontario Upholstered and Stuffed Articles Regulation, which is enforced by the provincial Technical Standards and Safety Authority, requires that "all upholstered and stuffed articles offered for sale in Ontario must bear a label in the prescribed format."

The regulation aims to "protect the public from the use of unclean or used fillings."

But the safety authority has failed to make clear what the health concerns regarding shoulder pads -- which don't usually come directly into contact with the body -- are, Mr. Lifson said.

"I don't know where the risk is," said Mr. Lifson, who is also the vice-chairman of Montreal-based Peerless Clothing, a tailored menswear producer. "Where's the relation to safety?"

It's a good question, said Dr. Jason Rivers, a clinical professor of dermatology at the University of British Columbia and a practising dermatologist in Vancouver.

"There should really be no issues with this. The padded material's usually sealed in, anyway," he said, adding that in "20-odd" years of dermatology practice, he's never encountered patients with bra- or shoulder-pad-related problems.

Under the changes, which come into effect next year, bras and shoulder pads must be affixed with 2.5-centimetre-by-seven-centimetre labels, similar to those required on stuffed toys, that state the items are filled with "new material only."

Producers of padded items will have to register with the safety authority and pay an annual registration fee: $400 for manufacturers and $20 for hobbyists and crafters who work from home.

"All padded undergarments and those involved in their manufacture, importation, distribution or retailing" are expected to comply, the safety authority regulations state.

It's all a bit much for people in the industry.

"Why should we have to have a registry of the manufacturers of padded undergarments?" asked Bob Kirke, executive director of the apparel federation.

Dara Vorkapic, the safety authority's pointwoman on the regulations, was not available for comment yesterday.

In the document advising of the regulatory changes on the authority's website, Ms. Vorkapic said that the safety authority is "continually creating greater ways to serve public safety, and protect consumers against unsafe materials."

Chris Piper, an associate professor of operations at the University of Western Ontario's Richard Ivey School of Business, said changing safety regulations are not uncommon. "It's the cost of doing business," he said. "I don't see it as a particularly unique or unusual event."

But importers may encounter problems complying with the regulations, since factories abroad typically produce garments for more than the Ontario market, he said.

Members of the Canadian Apparel Federation hope to meet with the safety authority's upholstered and stuffed articles arm to discuss the changes.

"I hope common sense will prevail," Mr. Lifson said.
© The Ottawa Citizen 2008

Don't we have other things to worry about?

PD project photos

First off I apologize for the quality and angle of the shots. The tripod seems to have acquired the ability to leave the workshop unaided, so the nightie shots are not the most flattering of me ... they make my head look so tiny compared to everything else! Once we get back from the vacation I will re-shoot with the tripod (or take over the kids' bathroom for re-takes as it has the best light!

So, without further excuses, here they are


This is another one of my TNT princess T's made in a Nomex Power Dry with silkweight PD piping and neck band. Note to self, when using PD for neckbands, don't just fold and stitch. Use a two piece band so that you have two layers of the wicking surface on top of each other. That way the wicking surface is against the skin. Trust me, when you are working out, if the neck sticks to you, you ARE NOT comfortable!

Next up, a new version of the HP Cadeaux T. I love this pattern and not just because of it having been free! This one is in a poly/lycra knit. I love the print as it is takes me through all seasons thanks to the green and ivory in it! I added some fullness at the CF of the neckline to give some gathering interest.


The next top is made with some beautiful stretch cotton lace underlined with PD. Yup, I am heading to the Pacific coast for 2 weeks, so I need that PD! The first one is a version of a Palmer Pletsch pattern where I decided I wanted to leave off the sleeves. The armscye was a little low, so I added elastic to the seamline to pull it in a bit.

Last but not least, here is one of the two nighties I made up, again using PD. They are from a custom colour run from Ressy last year. The pattern is a vintage one that I bought from Lanetz Living, a wonderful little webstore with plenty of nice surprises hiding in there! I wanted to have something feminine but not frou frou and still be slightly sexy. So, I chose view C.
The first version eliminated the tie opening as I will be staying at the DMIL's house for the next week! So, I simply filled in the void from the opening and then gathered it all in. I love the fit of the skirt! The second one (for home use only) has the tie opening and is in a nice dark raspberry pink. It fits a bit more snug without the extra fabric at CF, but it fills the bill as a "birthday present" for the Pilot!


That is all for now ... I have to go do that last minute laundry and get the kids packed (not to mention me and the Pilot), book the cab for tomorrow, oh yeah and finish adding neck bands to Monkey Boy's T's ... do you think I can squeeze in another simple T for myself? grin ... you never know! I am in the groove to be sure!