Monday, May 20, 2019

Diorella drama

I fell in love with the Diorella (HP1199) when it first came out a couple of years ago.  The neckline darting appealed to me as it was different from what I was seeing elsewhere. Like the La Strada T before it, this elevates the shawl collar to a whole new level.

The delay in me sewing it is beyond this blog. Water under a bridge of excuses and personal choices. What matters is that it is finally done. Twice.  In one weekend, too boot. Ok. One week, but there was minimal weekday work, and 90% of everything was done a week ago Saturday and today, so that is one weekend, right?

Sizing/Alterations
Since Trudy started selling, I have been sewing a size 14/16 top, depending on the wearing ease.  The 16 more to do with me being lazy and not wanting to alter for fit and it was deemed "close enough", the 14 because that was my "normal" size. Version 1 was done in a 14, no alterations as this is a loose fitted design. My front panel is a woven cotton that I loved the pattern of.  I thought it might be a bit too stiff for this, but deemed it OK for the muslin, so off to the races I went last weekend. And stumbled at the curve. Or rather, the pleats. They just would not lie the way I wanted them to regardless of clipped curves and basting. I KNEW it was the fabric. Sigh. The fit was loose even with the Gals being what they are, however, so off it went for a week, half done.
The pleating looks not too bad on Mindy, but it is not as flattering in reality because of the fabric. (see below for comparison shots)

Reflecting over the week on what was going wrong, I was frustrated.   Since the Sewing in the Sun session, where normal was tossed out the window to the gators, I decided to go down a size and used a very lightweight knit fabric for version 2. I added some to the sideseams just in case and because the neck o the 14 felt too restrictive, I added an inch to the CB neckline seam and to the back yoke piece at CB as well. Hindsight, I needed the neck, butcan take out/add shaping at the sides as there is enough wearing ease without what I added.

I like the armhole binding treatment, but recommend stitching down the seam allowances at the binding area so as to not have irritation there. That is the one downside to the binding in the flat.

The cut on facing pleats require careful choices of fabric. The woven cotton was not drapey enough for the hanging over the bustline.  There was the fell of tenting happening, so CF shaping was added. The knit onionskin, draped oh so much nicer. Note to self, do not wear the paisley knit with dark pants ... that is the shadowing under the thing fabric.


All in all, I am happy with the top. Will likely make a 3/4 length or long sleeve for cooler weather,


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