Tuesday, December 31, 2019

#HPHappiness 2020 - HP1239 Beatnik Sweatshirt

HP1239-fast-fabulous-beatnick-sweatshirt

Recap of First attempt details:
  • Size - 12 extended to size 14 in sleeve length
  • Version - faced neckline
  • Fabric - bamboo sweatshirt fleece
  • Changes - cut back on fold, reduced to remove seam allowance; top stitched the pleats in place vertically
  • Time - From opening package to topstitching the hemline, just under three hours
  • Concerns - Dolman sleeve and cocoon shape
Final version details:
  • Size - 12 extended to size 14 in sleeve length; extended arm length 2", narrowing slightly; adjusted sleeve facing
  • Version - collar band, extended one inch in depth to give slight cowl effect
  • Fabric - Red poly/wool boucle knit from Darell Thomas Textiles; facings are a rayon midweight ponte in black, not interfaced, but does give a hint of structure to the facings that the boucle needed.
  • Changes - other than the above changes, none
  • Time - From opening package to topstitching the hemline, just under three hours
The previous concerns about the Dolman sleeve are put to rest. Yes, there is a lot of fabric, but with this boucle, it is still lightweight and drapes so much nicer than the fleece. It will be a bit uncomfortable under some of my coats if I am wearing to work, so I will have to choose carefully on Thursday. other than that, I love this pattern.

I can see me morphing the pleating and the shape onto other sweater patterns as it sits PERFECTLY on my shape.  This one is amazing!


#HPHappiness2020 - HP 1239 Beatnik Sweatshirt

HP1239-fast-fabulous-beatnick-sweatshirt

First attempt details:

  • Size - 12 extended to size 14 in sleeve length
  • Version - faced neckline
  • Fabric - bamboo sweatshirt fleece
  • Changes - cut back on fold, reduced to remove seam allowance; top stitched the pleats in place vertically
  • Time - From opening package to topstitching the hemline, just under three hours
  • Concerns - Dolman sleeve and cocoon shape


Results:

  • Could extend the hip to 14 at hemline if fabric has less give (like sweatshirting), not a need, but easier to get over the twins
  • Do not extend the hem facing without also extending garment
  • Adjust the curve on the sleeve/side seam as the hem is a bit too big and it is a bit visually bulkier than I want.
After wearing it around the house, I must say that I am really loving the shape. The pleats at the hemline are perfectly placed for my bust point and the entire treatment really is flattering. The Hi Lo hemline is the perfect proportion for me and provides the additional coverage and warmth in the back without being bulky in front.

My only spot that is giving me second thoughts is the sleeve. I live in Canada, where things get chilly. Wearing a t shirt under it last night had me grabbing a shawl to cover my forearms and the neck area. As the final version is for work, I think  the neckband will fix the latter issue. Am pondering an extended knit cuff to take it to bracelet length for that extra coverage. Am wearing a 3/4 sleeve t today underneath as it is quite blowy up here. So far so good, so maybe it was just the short sleeve that cooled me off?

Will post photo of final ... navy blue does not really show well on camera.

Sunday, December 29, 2019

Ringing in the New

Last year I was abysmal at making the effort to sew. Lots of design ideas and fabric buying, but not much actual sewing. Lots of excuses, not many actual reasons.  This year, I am going to try HARDER.

Although I am not a fan of resolutions, last year I wanted to try something new as I vowed to make turning 50 into Fabulous. That led to Dragonboat on a rec team, then trying out for and then making it onto a competitive team. Since thatbworked out so well, I think Fabulous 50 deserves a Phase 2 - and that is where my sewing comes in.

I am going to make a minimum of one new garment a month, not repeating any patterns unless I do a redesign to the pattern. I am going to keep track of the Hot Patterns designs I use with the hashtag #HPHappiness2020.

Over the past years, it has become my tradition to spend New Year's Eve sewing something. I started early this year, as I have a goal of one new full outfit for work by Jan 6, maybe make this the start of a Christmas capsule? Which means RED!

Project #1 - HP 1239 Fast & Fabulous Beatnik Sweatshirt
I am tired of the standard hoodie/ sweatshirt. This seemed like a great way to update the standard sweater but with a retro flair. It reminds me of the outfit Audrey Hepburn wore in her movie "Charade". Here is the description from the website:

Loose-fit, pull-over, dolman sleeve
sweatshirt has a faced boat neck with
an optional banded collar, 3/4 length
sleeves & hi-lo hemline. Back has a 
center seam; your bust darts are
cleverly transformed into deep pleats
at the hem to create a cocoon shape. 
Hem & sleeves finish with facings.

A muslin will be needed as this is a relaxed fit which will mean I can go down in size. The Colman sleeve may be too generous of a slope for a busty gal like me, so that may need tweaking as well. The hemline shaping may need adjusting up to fit the hips.

The first attempt will be in a bamboo sweatshirting with faced neckline. Little stretch, so it will be best for the initial fitting. Final version will have the neck and be in a red boucle knit to make it suitable for the office.

My plan is to start with my base size 12, extending to a 14 in sleeve length. Will see how that works!