Sunday, March 22, 2020

It's just a number ...

Muslin alert... Finally back to my Tailored Track pant. This was one of the projects left out of my Sewing in the Sun packing due to baggage weight and that has been aging since pre-sewing in the Sun 2019. I cut this in an inexpensive plaid stretch woven as I wanted to see if I could successfully match the plaid across the seams as well as achieve the fit I want.

DISCLAIMER:
This was cut as size 16 with the following adjustments:
- flat seat adjustment of about 1" (added back at CB)
- about 1/4" added to back inseam,
- full tummy adjustment
- 1" added to side seams in the hip area
- the elastic casing narrowed to a single width for a 1.5" elastic

This is very much a case of over fitting and being stuck on a size number. Why do I say that? Because I was determined that a 14 would fit as an 18 woud]ld be way too big ... Because I fit a pair of 18 Tummy Tamers with a LOT less hassle last year. Last year was all about scrapping numbers and going for what works.  Different wearing ease and design ease means I need different sizes. There is no one size fits all - if there was, we all woudl not be sewing!

The challenge now is to tape a new copy together (LOVE pdf patterns for this!) and lay over the Tummy Tamers pattern pieces to compare the two and adjust where needed. AND the Mainsail pant fit perfect out of the envelope. Different amounts of wearing ease, I know, but that alone indicates that I am starting in the wrong place for this pattern.

My take away from this? I am awesome at matching even plaids! They even match at the side seams! And yes, I did tuck the sweater in for the photo, but it would not be worn thus, so the tummy issue would be hidden if I wear untucked tops; which I would do over an elastic waist anyway. So, here is another one of my famous blurry night time pics of Tailored Track Pant Muslin #1/
The buckle at the lift hip is because the elastic twisted and I did not notice until after I had stitched the ends and closed her up.

Still something wonky on the back inseam happening. And I am NOT liking the angle of the plaid.  Wonder if deepening the curve would stop that ...

All in all, a good first muslin.
You can see in the front view that the tummy still needs a bit of help. The back looks