Customized Shopping?

While browsing the boards over at PR this morning, I came across an article on the use of Body Scanners in RTW stores. While this is not new to me, there was some content in the article that was a bit interesting to me. First of all, apparently, my hourglass figure is an oddity (emphasis is added):
"the women’s fashion industry was shifting from its hourglass-figure paradigm. The research – sponsored in part by J.C. Penney, Target and Jockey – showed that the hourglass figure is the least dominate shape of women, making up only 8.4 percent of the 6,318 women scanned. In fact, the hourglass figure almost doesn’t exist in women above a size eight."
Snort ... sorry, I am still shaking my head over the thought that the hourglass actually was the paradigm!

The other thing that peeked my interest was a reference to a website called My Shape.com.
The purpose of this site is to be an online portal for personalized shopping. After registering, you enter in a raft of personal measurements and then select colouring and hair colour and answer basic questions about what type of clothing styles you wear and so on. So far there is nothing new here, I have seen this offered elsewhere, but the new twist (for me) was that once your info is entered in, they offer you a personal selection of garments that are sized for your measurements and supposedly suited to your figure type and colouring. The idea being that you will then buy those items from this site. Being a member gets you free shipping and returns.

For the fun of it, I entered in all my info and then opened "My Shop" to see what they would have for me. I must say that had I the $, I would wear most of what they offered up for me. The biggest surprise was the red business skirt suit shown on the first page. It was a bluer red than the gab in the stash. Maybe it is the shade of red that put me off that gabardine ... it is a more orange red than a blue red. The only criticism I have is that the garments are shown on mannequins that are not my shape and the fit on the mannequins are definitely helped along by unseen pins an clamps, I am sure. It would have been even better to visualize had the garments been on a virtual me, I think.

Taming the Dragon ...

I couldn't do it. It kept me up last night, that red gabardine. Even though I was thinking muslin, I was internally hoping this version would actually be wearable. The only problem is I really don't have much in the Closet or stash to coord with red pants. Then there is the internal Stacy and Clinton snarking away about who wears red pants (or was that me channelling my mother?) ... so I went deep into the stash and found a classic navy blue gab instead. It was pre-washed and needed a fast pressing, so out it came. I have now cut it out and it is awaiting interfacing and edge finishing. I usually do this before I start any seams.

Changes to the pattern:
1. straighten the CF
2. added 5/8" @ s.s. starting at the bottom of the pocket area
3. added same to the pocket pieces and waistbands pieces
4. removed the dart at the seam at the front seam by straightening out the seamlines.
5. lowered the crotch "curve" and shortened the extension by approx 1 1/2"
(below is the inner back leg piece with the new cutting lines in red and the new seamline in blue)


It does seem that I have lots of gab in the stash, but most of it is poly cotton blends, I believe. My mother went on a buying binge years ago (I was Hamster Boy's age, I believe) with thoughts of a June Cleaver type wardrobe, I think, in classic navy and grey with the red for a jacket, I believe. Last summer, she "forced" me to take the majority of it home with me. I honestly can't see me wearing it. It's not that I don't like red, I have a couple of nice red sweaters and tops that I wear often. I have a red linen that is awaiting spring for a blouse. But I can't see myself wearing that much red. Maybe trench for spring? Yeah, right! I already have 2 coat UFO's, I don't need another!

As I have almost finished taming the Dragon, my mind is beginning to wander to the next project. Definitely the Twisted Turtleneck, first mentioned by Diva Phyllis over at the Sewing Divas. I have a white cotton lycra that would be perfect for this design. I plan on using the Simplicty twist top pattern as the basis of the top. When that one is finished, I plan on using a brown Pucci type print in browns and greens for a knock off of a new Jalie top that has an empire waist and a V front with a raised neckline. Leslie posted a review of hers over at PR the other day. I really like the look of it, but I don't want to spend $15 with shipping and taxes for a look that I think I can easily achieve using a Kwik Sew pattern already present (and fitted) in the stash. All I have to do is to eliminate the overlap, make a CF seam and raise the neckline in the back and shoulder area. I will have to play with that aspect of the design, but it will be fun to do! Another design growing in my head is to take my TNT princess T pattern and to add sideseam ruching and try to twist the center panel. I have some nice brown knit for that one. With some nice teal thread for contrast, it should be really nice, if I can get it to work.

These are all further attempts at pattern re-drafting for me, something I find I enjoy doing immensely! I have Armstrong's pattern drafting book and I find I am looking at patterns and garments in the stores in a whole new light as I try to figure out how they are made. I find myself looking closer at the stash to see which patterns I can actually morph to copy the details I like. I do more work in my head than I do in the actual workshop, but small steps first, right?

Basics, continued ...

Well, last night and this morning's efforts have me now ready to cut muslin #2 . Having undone all the changes done before and restarted really helped. Turns out I had over-thought the alterations. All that I really needed was to lower that curve and shorten the length of the extension quite a bit. When I balked at how much it appeared that I needed, I pulled out my Silhouette pants pattern and compared the curves. Pretty close! The only other change I had to make was to take a small horizontal tuck across the back and then add that back to the top. What I did was to take this out of the yoke piece rather than the pant as I didn't want to fiddle with adjusting the 2 pieces.

The pattern calls for medium to lightweight fabric like panne velvet or rip stop nylon ("think drapey"), neither of which I have. So, I am trying to determine which fabrics to use from the stash. I have some nice twills, but I think they may not be drapey enough. Same for the brown ottoman ... I have some really lightweight brown gab type fabric from Fabricmart, but I would not be able to wear it any time soon due to the temps outside! So, I am going to hedge my bets and try some red gab in the trunk for this muslin. I was given the fabric by my mother, and while I like the idea of red pants, I am not sure I am the person to wear them ... primarily because I don't have enough in the Closet and stash to wear with them! So, the red gab is muslin bound while I re-think what to use for these pants! OF course, if the Sophia knit from Ressy arrives soon, this whole conversation may be moot! I have some in black arriving that would be perfect for these, I think!

Dragon restart ...

OK, I have gone back to the beginning and removed all basted changes except for the expanded side seams. The pants are still a bit snug at the hip/waist area (see the drag lines on the left yoke piece?), but what I really am stumped about is what to do about those vertical lines below the crotch curve. I have yet to clip this curve although I did snip at the joint of the "L" shape. This is a very wide pant, but the majority of the width seems to be carried in the inner pant leg piece. Are these lines due to this extra width?
















Help is needed here, readers!

Hamsterboy

Here is the promised photo of Hamsterboy and the She-Rodent known as "Hammie"...

A rose by any other name ...

I found this while playing and got a giggle ... what does your name mean?

What Lorna Means

L is for Logical O is for Organic R is for Remarkable N is for Naughty A is for Active

What Does Your Name Mean?

More UFO complaints ...

Well, the Closet, not wanting to be outdone by the Workshop, has now started to complain as well. Turns out that all those wearable muslins I have been doing aren't satisfied with being alone in the closet. They seem to think that because they have been completed with relatively little effort, that the "final" versions should be keeping them company upstairs. So, now the to do list is getting longer. Not only do I have to finish the UFO's, the mending and exercise, I also have to make up the final versions of the HP cardigan and jacket.

I think the closet feels left out due to all the attention being given to the workshop. This afternoon things were fairly subdued when I ventured down to try out the Beast formerly known as elliptical. I think the coats were a bit intimidated by the Beast. So should I have been, I think. I severely underestimated it's power. I foolishly thought that since I can easily do 30 minutes of hills on a treadmill (OK I could, last year!) that this wouldn't, indeed, couldn't be that hard ... could it?

IT WAS WORSE! After only 5 minutes I was seriously re-considering this purchase. Now I understand why the seller converted to a treadmill. First, my knees "thickened up", making them very tired. Then, the glutes started to yell at me ... I could feel one muscle all the way from the back of my knee all the way to my waist and it was not happy! I had to take a number of breaks to catch my breath. I swear that I heard those dragon pants muttering as they lounged behind me on the cutting table. Something about deserving every minute for abandoning them. Dissing the seamstress is NOT how to get me to quit! So, I changed the channel to HGTV and carried on! I forced myself to finish the full 30 minutes of motion ... problem is, it took me almost 45 minutes to accomplish that feat! My new goal is to bring that 30 minute session down to an actual 30 minutes in the next two weeks.

In an effort to make amends with the UFOs, I folded the Beast and slid it out of view under the cutting table. I then took the ring leader Dragon upstairs into the light of day to ripstitch all the alterations I have done to date. The plan is to put them back together and take another look at them. I explained that I have a meeting at the school tonight about Hamsterboy transferring into French Immersion next year. The ringleader seemed to accept that excuse/reason. The rest of the plan is to go down and rebaste along the original lines, take a photo and put them down again. I will then start to hand hem the sleeves of the coat. I have to pin the hemline. I will hopefully be able to call it a night after that. Of course, this all depends on Hamsterboy not having any more nightmares ... I bet it is the Closet that is waking him up each night. His Den is the other side of the Closet wall.

No more excuses ...

I just came home from picking up the new addition to the Shop. While not a sewing machine, it is something just for me. I found an elliptical/stepper machine that folds oh so nicely and fits, like it was meant to be there, under the cutting table. Now, I know that if I kick the machine while cutting, it will be a signal to pull it out and use it!

In order to slowly acclimatize the rest of the room to the machine, I have opened the doors and just have it peeking inside. That should keep the ruckus to a minimum while I put the kids to bed and pop some Advil for this headache that has been plaguing me most of the day ... maybe a trial on the machine will help.

What I really need now is a nickname for the machine. I love how Ressy calls her treadmill the "dreadmill" ... I am now taking suggestions for what to call this little fella! Maybe the 'Lepper?

UFO Sightings

I seem to have hit a speedbump the size of a moose in my sewing. First, it wsa too cold in the basement. Solution: I closed the cold air return for the furnace that was bringing in all that minus stupdid air. Then I added a space heater to the Shop, but when I planned on going down, Hamster Boy had some bad dreams, needing snuggle time with Mom on the sofa. This happened for a few nights in a row, so I think Hamster Boy was imagining all sorts of horrible things when he heard the exercise wheel and antics of the Rodent at night. Said Rodent has been moved to the TV Room out of earshot of Hamster Boy. Nightmares have almost gone away. I think he has also been reading the old Goosebumps books at school ... they tend to make his imagination go wild! Still no sewing at night for a while ... And daytime has been busy with Scout stuff. One of my homework assignments for my training is to make a 3 year plan, 3x 1 month plans (in detail) and then plan and run a weekend camp. All by end March.

It all started because I needed to take a break from the coat and started the pants. Then I needed a break from the pants, so did I go back to the coat? No. Now, both are UFO's taking up space. Looking around the shop, I also see a fleece coat started when we first moved here almost 18 months ago. It was intended for my mother, but then she went to Burlington Coat Factory with her friend and came home with 4 coats/jackets. No need for it anymore, so it hangs, forlorn, watching the other coat.

I am sure the two of them have been bickering when the lights went out. The Cashmere can be a bit snotty at times, so I am sure that the wool fleece is now laughing at the Cashmere's unfinished state. "At least I have facings and linings" I thought I heard it mutter ... As for the pants, I am not sure it has forgiven me the snub I unintentionally gave it to help the Monkey make her "pooch pouch" "it is sooooo PINK!" it whines ...

Just when I get them calmed down I hear a quiet sigh from the closet area ... turns out the Pilot's shirt muslin is threatening to come out of hibernation early. Not a good thing to do, I tell it. The last time the Pilot was home, I took a good long look at his back and shoulders... he has re-discovered the weight room. Again. Come Spring Break, he is going to Darryl for some shirts! I am going to wake up the muslin and then join it with another and we will compare the two at the shop.

Of course, snarking in the background is the mending pile. My dear Mom sewed the Monkey a number of nighties and tops a year back and the seams have all popped. They need almost total redoing for her to wear. They feel so left out ... especially as they don't even have a basket or a box. Just a pile.

What the reaction will be tonight when I introduce the Elliptical/Stepper to the mix, I am not sure. I am sure that there will be some snark about it being a new place to hang UFO's. I will have to make some space under the Table as it folds down for storage when not in use. I have yet to decide if it will actually be inside the Shop or just outside the glass doors, but still in view of the TV. I wonder what I would hear if I left a tape recorder in there tonight ...

Tagged ... again!

I've been tagged by Robyn over at Blue Moon! While I won't tag another 5 people as I think the pool of non-tagged people is quickly becoming a puddle, I will post another 5 things about myself.

1. I am Catholic and a cultural anthropologist ... reconcile that!
2. I don't sing in the shower, but I do love singing Alto Tenor along with my choral CD's in the workshop; as I used to sing in a choir for many years, I am actually pretty good; no I don't do karaoke!
3. My second favourite CD is from a group called The East Village Opera Company; a neat group that believes that the Major Classical composers were the rock stars of their time and have re-worked many pieces into rock opera; their Ave Maria is beautiful! I have their first indie album ...
4. Must see TV: CSI Miami (I love the corny opening lines of David Carruso!), House (don't you wish we could all say whatever we liked sometimes?), Vegas and Studio 60 on the Sunset Strip
5. The name the Scouts up here call me is Hawkeye ... ironic cause I have really BAD eyesight, although it is better than the alternative which was "Bubbles"; those of you who can see the Canadian cable TV show called "Trailer Park Boys" will understand why!

The coat is still slumbering and as are the pants ... I have an order for more Scout neck scarves to finish and deliver this week.

Toe Shoes???

I like shoes, don't get me wrong ... but I am not obsessed by them. I guess that is still the SAHM in me. I just don't have a lot of shoes, although the ones I have are nice enough, I think that Stacy and Clinton would pass me by. A friend sent me photos this morning of some new shoes that I can only assume were runway pieces and not meant for general wear ... they are so over the top that I just had to share them!

For those of you with ballet lessons in your past, be warned ... painful flashbacks may occur and I apologize for any toe cramps you may experience ...

Diversions ...

After 48 hours of refereeing Hamster Boy (the child formerly known as Elder Monkey) and the other Monkey, I needed this afternoon of fiddling in the workshop. What made it a bit more special is that the Monkey spent it with me. The last time I was at Wal-Mart, I picked up a beginning sewing kit. Despite the photo on the box, the purse is actually a really bright bubblegum pink. The age is supposed to be 8 and up, but I figured this was a good opportunity to have a mother-daughter activity, so I bought it anyway.

It is a cute little kit, although I am not sure if an 8 y.o. would wear it as I think it is the perfect size for the Monkey. The kit comes with everything you need: a real ravelly boucle fabric and a bad poly stable velour knit for the lining, fancy buttons and a feather boa for embellishment, and a rope for the strap. Thread, snaps and pins were also included. The instructions were written well for an 8 y.o. to follow, but the Monkey can't read yet, so I ignored them for the most part! I did the cutting and pressing and sat her on my lap while sewing. That way she could help feed the fabric through and help me sew. The only changes were to interface the boucle for stability and to zigzag the boa vice whip stitching it. The way she plays with it, it needs the extra strength! Here is my burgeoning seamstress with her pooch pouch:


Of the 10 fitting photos I took while fiddling with dragons, she is in the corner of about 8, intently sewing on her buttons while watching TV in the shop. She loves little moments like this afternoon, as do I, to tell the truth. Many a time I would watch my mother sew clothes for me as I played on the floor. Many a time I wished that she would sit me on her lap and "help" her sew. Unfortunately, her fear of a needle going through a finger proved stronger than my cutie factor ... but she made up for it when I was a teen and she passed on all she knew then! I hope that this little project will ease her jealousy over the Rodent a bit.

Knowing when to stop ...

I have been fiddling with the back of the Dragon Pants off and on for a while now, waiting to see if I can achieve a nice fall in the back. The problem? Some vertical fullness directly below the crotch curve that was not correctable by a horizontal dart alone. What I have done is to deepen the pant side of the yoke seamline at CB by 5/8". I also deepened the CB seam below the corner point of that seam (this "curve" is an almost right angle). I also narrowed the inner leg piece at the center leg seamline, but I think that needs to be set back to normal as it gives a bit of a pinched look at that seam. Good thing I have not trimmed anything! What I am left with is this:


What I see is more wrinkles at the bottom of the curve. Will this be cured by clipping the seam? Do I need to raise that yoke seam more yet and add depth to the yoke to rid myself of that wedgie feeling? In other patterns, I have had to make the dart about 1", maybe that is what this needs to remove that little bit. OF course all this means that I need to add a smidge to the s.a. @ the s.s. for comfort in addition to the removal of the vertical front dart. The standard front vertical dart is included in the shaping of that seamline, so I removed it by reducing the s.a., straightening the seamline to allow me to zip the pant.

Could I have finally have found a standard adjustment for any pant pattern? A 1" horizontal dart and a really deep crotch curve at its base. OR am I just being obsessive in my search for nice fitting pants? And finally, which fabric in the stash will finally end up as a dragon?

Relaxed and fluid Pants, designed for medium to light weight fabrics like washed silk, rip-stop nylon or even panne velvet...think drapey!

I have some lightweight wool in a chocolate brown that was on tap but I wonder if that will do. It might just be a bit too lightweight.

Pets!

We finally managed to convince the Pilot to allow a Pet. Elder monkey's next door neighbour playmate has been asked by his parents to remove the Hamster. The Boy has too much work and activities to take proper care of the Hamster. Elder Monkey dearly wants a pet and is motivated to earn his Pet Care badge at Cub Scouts. The hold out has been the Pilot. Having done 2 moves with a feline, he is hesitant to move again with an animal. He also didn't think that the house can handle one. But a reasonable discussion about trial period of 3 months (equal to the time required for the badge) and the fact that this is the perfect opportunity for Elder Monkey to prove he is responsible enough to have a pet, turned the Pilot around.

The Hamster arrived today. Monkey spent yesterday and this morning reading online about hamsters. Most of the afternoon he has been in his bedroom reading and watching/playing with the hamster, now christened SCRUFFY. I will post a pic tomorrow while the Monkeys are at school.

Step one to my real goal of a Beagle dog!

Biggest Birthday Wish is Really Small

Get your kleenex out people! This is a tear jerker ... I was sent this last night by a fellow Scout leader.

There is a 7 year old boy at the Children's Hospital of Eastern Ontario (located here in Ottawa, my home town), who is battling cancer. He has said that he would like to get a lot of birthday cards. He actually said that he would like to get the world record for the most amount of birthday cards. At the age of 7, I am sure that he did not realize that the record is 33 million cards. I am not the type of person who gets involved with chain letters and this will probably be the only thing like it that I would do, but something about Shane's story touched me. I would ask that everyone who receives this email, send a card to Shane (You can mail it to KISS FM...follow the link that I have included in this email for the address). Quite a few of you that are on my email list are involved in Scouting or Guiding. I would ask that you bring this to your groups and use it as a craft idea. This is something that the youth may enjoy, and I am sure that it would be something that Shane would enjoy!

I would also ask that you pass this message on to fellow Scouters, Guiders and Co-Workers. Let's try to get this message all across Canada if we can. Shane turns 8 in May. You can meet Shane by checking out his profile by following the link I have provided.

105.3 KISS FM The radio station has a mailing address that you can send cards to. They will take them to CHEO (the hospital) to Shane.

TLP Foundation

This is the ultimate Hallmark moment my friends. I ask that you read and then pass it on to any other Scout leader or Guide leader you know or even to any school class that would be interested in helping Shane achieve his goal. Thanks so much!

TAG # 4

HAH! I found another blog to tag ... one that I didn't know existed! Connie B. TAG!!!
seamingly simple

This should be lots of fun! I am adding her to my blog roll. We roomed together for the CSNF in Toronto a couple of years back and had lots of fun! We are talking about doing PR weekend in NYC this fall together as well.

I am so not good at TAG!

I have not been doing well in cyberspace today ... my tag links have not been put in correctly .. thanks to The Stitchery for all the tech assistance. I have now tested the links and they now work. So, your patience has been rewarded!

I am only going to TAG 4 people as I am running out of blogs that have not already been tagged!

ilove trim
gigisews
Sue Vite
lornajay

Let's see what comes out of this!

I'm back!

I have not been hiding in my sewing room nor have I been avoiding the tag game, honest. I just spent the past 48 hours at the first part of a training session for leaders with Scouts Canada. The course is the advanced leaders course and has leaders from all sections (age groups). It was a very intense and busy weekend and I am not sure that I fully understand all that I have absorbed as there was so much information given out and so much done. Definitely learning by doing as we made emergency shelters in the snowy woods, had a formal campfire in the snow in -20 (C) temps on a night so clear that we all spent an extra hour freezing while just looking at the sky without any interference from lamps and buildings.

I was taught so many actions songs and chants by a set of twin 18 yo leaders in training that my head is spinning. These two boys are the walking poster children for Scouts. They have been in since they were 5 and have grown up in the organization and their enthusiasm is so very infectious! They were a joy to be around I can't wait till the next round in April to see them again and to learn more even though I am exhausted from late nights, eating too much food and laughing way too hard!

I think I have made up my mind about who to tag. I am just trying to make sure I do it right (and check to make sure that my "victims" have not already been tagged already!) So beware all of you ... you might be next!

I've Been Tagged!

Diva Mary Beth has tagged The Needle! Man, now I have to think about what to say about myself and how to put my personal self out there for all to see!

Here’s how it works:

1. someone tags you, (thanks MB!)
2. you post five things about yourself that you haven’t already mentioned on your blog (seeing as I haven't posted much other than this job and sewing this give some lots of leeway!)
3. you tag 5 people you’d like to know more about (that will take some thought ... I know of 2 off hand, but will have to think about who else to tag as I don't follow many personal blogs right now)

OK, five things that you don't know about me ...

1. I am the youngest of 4 girl children and have no brothers, making my upbringing a hot house of estrogen combined with German stubborness (Mom) and good old Army thinking as Dad was a Sergeant Major in the Canadian military. This background lead me to a uniform early in life as I joined the Air Cadet system and discovered I really thrived in this environment. So, off I went to Military College (think a Canadian version of West Point, only we have all three branches of our military in one College rather split into Army, Navy and Air Force). I loved that too, but found out the hard way I am not an engineer. Turns out that loving theory isn't enough, you have to be able to apply it and do lots of higher math. Not my strong point. So, combine that with an injury and I left the College after one year, but stayed in the military and received my Officer's Commission in the Military Police. At 19 I was handed a badge, rank on my shoulders and told "you are now a leader of men" abd qualified to be the Head of Security on a base. Scary isn't it? After 8 years of that life I had an inkling to actually live in the same province as the Pilot (especially after the wedding!) so I semi-retired and took command of a Reserve Unit in his location. We had to re-learn how to love together ...

2. Fast forward a few years and we are posted again. I decide to hang up the uniform for good to avoid future separation (you know that will come back to haunt me) and go back to school to get that degree I started back in the Military College. I go in with the intention of avoiding law and all things legal as I want something new. What chooses my interest? The first prof of my first day shows a slide of a map that shows Antarctica on the top. Confuses the kiddies in the classroom. Finally somebody speaks up, "Sir, I think your slide is upside down". Response? "Who says that North has to be up? What natural law is there that says it must be so? Naming north as up was an arbitrary decision by an individual." My interest was highly peaked ... and anthropology became my passion. Moving around so much in my life exposed me to many things, so this is perfect for me! Combining it with ancient history, religious and native studies made for a wonderful 3 years of reading and writing of papers. I wanted to get my Masters, but the first monkey arrived first. And a posting for the Pilot.

3. My "retirement" dream is to own a bookstore. The Pilot thinks it would be great and we laugh about throwing in a sewing lounge as well. If we make it a 3 floor enterprise we can have a communal wood shop on the ground floor, the books on the main floor and the sewing rooms upstairs. Gonna be a big building but will combine all of our passions in one. The only stickler is where ... we are from opposite sides of the country so we both differ on where will be better to live!

4. I miss the ocean. I spent a large portion of my teenage years living on the shore of Nova Scotia and really miss the smell of salt air and the on shore breezes ... that is one thing that both the Pilot and I agree on. We need to see water when we settle down. One of my favorite escapes was to go to the beach, sit on a rock and just watch the waves ... so soothing and a great way to reduce stress.

5. I am in love with a dog at the local Humane Society but can't bring him home. We don't want to have a pet while we still are moving every few years. The dog is a beagle cross named Snoopy. Perfect for walking along the beach ...

Now, who to tag next ... difficult as I don't like to do things like this to people who don't like to participate in such things. And my blog exposure is still narrow. So, who to send it to ... I think I will have to sleep on that part. Ponder it while I get groceries!

Careers revisited

I just had an interesting chat with the manager of the club I had interviewed for. While I did not get the administrator position, she would like me to consider becoming a personal trainer at the club. I would be trained and certified by them before being let loose on the floor, but she thinks my personal skills and experience would be of better use outside of a "solitary office". Another concern was the fact that I was honest about the fact that I will not be here for more than 2 years due to the Pilot's military career path. The other candidate was avail for longer. Valid concern for a management position and one that has kept me from applying to a number of different jobs.

So, given that the club GM wants me on staff in some capacity, I have to consider if I want to follow her suggestion. She wants me to apply to be a "membership ambassador" which is no more than a glorified tour guide who shows the members how to use the equipment and gives tours to prospective members and to do some shifts in the child care room as well to give me exposure to the company as I complete the personal training program. She will be recommending me to the Fitness Director as well. To be honest the prospect of doing the child care on a employment basis does not appeal to me even though it means I can bring younger monkey to work with me. As for becoming a personal trainer in this club would also involve sales targets, and I don't think that sales and fitness should mix. But it is portable ...

Another factor to consider is the reactions of the monkeys (not to mention the Pilot) to this whole idea of Mom working outside the home this year. We had always agreed that I would stay home till the kids are both in school full time (next year). The monkeys, younger one especially, are not keen on this. The elder is concerned that he will lose morning playground time to walk the younger to class each morning. The younger, being only 5, is upset at losing the big hello hugs when I pick her up at school. She is really acting out this week. She actually said that right now "I am her normal Mom" until I start work. All I wanted was to take on half days to give me some extra $ to pay off some bills. I figured I would be able to work till school is out and I would be clear, but she is not ready for this. Time to look for other solutions. Maybe I can set up some in house sewing lessons? Actively publish myself for custom sewing work as well? It is another option ...

There Be Dragons ...

I have started the next HP project. The Wong Sing Jones Dragon Cargo Pants are one the table and the muslin is half done. I likes this pant due to the lines of the leg. This pattern also has that right angle crotch curve that has received rave reviews. I want to see how that fits my shape. I have two different pants from WOF patterns that also had 2 piece legs and the fit were wonderful. This pattern has an additional horizontal cut below the knee and the casual back and cargo pockets. It is also meant for lighter weight fabrics. I just happen to have a lightweight brown wool gab in the stash from a Fabric Mart mystery bundle that I think would be perfect for this pattern, especially if I could find just the right teal colour for the top stitching.

So far, I have I cut out the size 16 without any changes. The last HP pant I did was the Skinny Jean and the 16 GG had room for me to play with, so this should be the same. For this first muslin I am using a mystery wool blend from my mother's stash. It is a heathered stone wash denim blue. As this is a muslin, I have not pre-treated the fabric. I am interested in the fit, so if it turns out to be wearable, then I have to hope it does not shrink too much. And hope it softens up a lot!

The instructions on this pattern are great. The sequencing is easy and there are no surprises. The zip application is slightly different from what I have done before. Unlike the Betzina method, there is no cut on extension or fly shield. You sew these on. The application of the extension to the leg and then stitch the zip to the extension and topstitch. Then you apply the zip to the shield and then the shield to the leg. As I was doing this, it seemed to be the reverse of what I am used to doing. I also had to rip part of the topstitching out to get a good seamline on the zipper and shield. I will add a cut on extension and insert the zipper using the Betzina method. Much easier for me. And I am going to topstitch using my regular foot vice the zipper foot as mentioned in Threads recently.

The pants are assembled and the first try on has occurred. If I had already lost the 25 pounds I am working on, the fit would be perfect! However, these are for now, so no photos will be posted. I can't close the zipper, so I have two options ahead of me. For the purposes of this muslin, I can let out the seams above the crotch area. I am going to start with the CB and the s.s. and see how that goes for the back and then open up the centre seam on the front legs. If I go down to 3/8" s.a. that will give me 2 1/2" extra to work with. Another option is to re-cut the front pieces only and straighten out the CF seamline. Right now it is one big dart. Putting it on-grain would give me another 2" as well. That would be less work to accomplish and I have extra fabric ... and lots of spare zips. So I think I will remove the front leg pieces and recut on grain and see if that will do it. When I attached the waistband, I stitched each piece to the leg and then sewed the s.s. and CB, so removing the band is not a problem. It is machine basted anyway.

Even with this little speedbump, I think that I will have the quickest pair of pants out of the envelope ever! Not even the Peggy Sagers pants were this easy to fit. So far they legs fall really nicely in the back. If the Razor Sharps and the Everyday Pants fit like this, I may never have to buy another pant pattern ... dare I hope?

Jalie Redux or Thanks Kathleen Cheetham!

What a day! Mid January and the thaw is over ... not that we really froze to begin with up here. IT has been hard to believe that I live on the same latitude as Moscow! We got about 4 inches of snow today. Not much, but enough to make people really silly when driving! Even so, I was only 10 minutes late for the second interview only to find out they were expecting a phone call asking to delay. Really? And how serious a candidate would I be if I had to do that considering it was only 4"? And considering that I learned to drive in this type of weather on the Atlantic seaboard?

The interview went well, I got very good vibes off of this as I did not see any others being interviewed, unlike last week. Not to mention that they were going to call me tonight with the results. But I am out this evening with Scouts, so they have to wait till tomorrow to tell me!

What did I wear, curious divas want to know? Hee hee ... nothing new I am afraid. Headache last night stopped me from doing anything more. So, the cardigan topped a RTW silk knit top in a nice teal worn over my Jalie pants. As I noted in my review of these pants, there were some fitting issues that needed addressing. I have since altered them a bit. A few issues back in Threads there was an article by Kathleen Cheetham on altering the back of RTW or already completed pants. I immediately thought of these pants and decided that this was a way to fix my back problem. So, here is the before shot:

What I did was to remove the excess by pinning a horizontal tuck along the widest part of the back, tapering to nothing at the s.s.. Measuring the tuck (about 2 1/2" YIKES), I then lowered the waistband the same amount, cutting off the extra fabric. I will alter the pattern to reflect the change in the back pattern piece. I also made the vertical adjustment, pinning out a 5/8" vertical tuck from the bottom of the crotch area to the knee. As per the article, I then removed this amount from the back inseam only, tapering to nothing at the knee area. That I have to do this is not a surprise to me as I had originally added a bit extra to the crotch points and I think this is only removing that excess. I still have to hitch the pants up a smidge (as I am doing in the photo), but doing any further changes at this weight will result in a sever wedgie! So, I will live with the slight excess until I drop a few more pounds. Here is the much improved after shot:


Now the debate is whether or not I use the same size next time! I seem to have taken a lot out doing these fixes. Is it worth starting over again when I know how to fix this size? The other thing I have noticed is that the waistband placement needs to be lowered at the s.s. as it has a curved appearance right now. Something else to do in the next version! I think I will stick with this size for now. Maybe when a few more pounds come off I will downsize (pun fully intended!) And yes, that is the HP Cherry Blossom coat in the background, resting on Mindy. I still haven't hemmed it. You have to be in the mood for handwork, you know? And awake, too!

Bo Ho Cardigan - finished

I finished the cardigan last night, so I am set for tomorrow. The Pilot heads back tonight, so I should be able to hem the coat and have that finished off for the snow expected tomorrow! I chose to make the ties out of self fabric, but to use what I declared to be the "wrong" side out. This gives a subtle but nice contrast effect, I think. I have some fabric left, maybe enough to make a pullover for the younger Monkey. She tried to explain that she wants a top that wraps. My little fashionista to be ...

I was really pleasantly surprised by this pattern. The one review I had read made it seem like it was a horrible pattern. I found it to be totally opposite. Even though this is a totally wearable muslin, I would love to have this in a wonderful wool knit to snuggle down in the cold weather. The only thing I will change in this is to either widen the collar a bit or use the binding to give some extra width. And maybe add a button to it to secure the fronts a bit better than the ties.

Next HP up ... Dragon Cargo pants! Those will happen after I hem that coat tonight!

To do list ...

Well, so far I have managed to get the Sportive Suit jacket and the Lacy Wrap Cardigan finished. The Cherry Blossom Coat only needs to be hemmed. Last night I was too tired to do it. But I may get at it tonight as I watch television.

I have one more job interview to go tomorrow afternoon, and will wear the cardigan over a silk knit mock Turtle and my Jalie pants. If I get the position, I will have to sew up a storm to provide myself with a wardrobe for a casual workplace. So, what to do next?

As I am managing to lose some weight, I need to either alter pants or make new ones. I have lots of fabrics that are suitable for this work environment, so I can easily make new ones. I think the next pair will be the HP Dragon Cargo Pants (minus the dragon embroidery on the leg) in a nice wool gabardine from fabricmart. I may also make up another pair of Jalie pants in black brushed twill. I have some brown ottoman (like an unbrushed twill) from Ressy that may become the Everyday Pants. Depends on how it washes up.

For tops, I need a number of them. The first one will be a twist top with a cut on sleeve from WOF in a white cotton interlock. Followed closely by the twist Turtleneck proposed by Diva Phyllis. After that I need to make some shirts and blouses for myself. I have potentially only 2 weeks to get myself the beginnings of a working wardrobe. First one that didn't involve a uniform ... and I get to sew up a storm while the Pilot is away during the week.

Menswear

The Pilot is off to Europe next month for a week as part of his current training. We'll leave the envy out of this post (or at least try to, anyway). While he doesn't need a suit, he would like a blazer to go with his trousers. The double breasted ones from his existing suits, he feels, are too dressy. So, we went shopping and came home very empty handed. The last time he needed something like this, it was his formal uniform, which is always custom made anyway. Today's shopping trip ended up being a futile exercise. If it wasn't too tight in the shoulders, it was way too big around the lower torso. He looked almost like he was wearing a sack. So, we will try on his suits and hopefully they still fit in the upper body.

Diva els wrote of a vintage Simplicity book on sewing menswear recently. I found a copy on eBay, but I am wondering if this book is what I need to solve this problem. He is an inverted V in his body shape. How do you fit that so that there is room above but not too much below? I took a look at some Vogue patterns and found this pattern. It appears to have a nice stance and some shaping to it. I also like the fact that there are pants there as well. Who knows, now that I have my own pants pretty well fit, maybe I can tear more hair out fitting him in one! But first I would have to actually get him that promised shirt!

More on HP Sizing

I have been teasing Trudy and Jeremy at Hot patterns that they had sneaked over the border and stole my bodice sloper. The fact that their most recent patterns fit so well without any alterations was a very pleasant surprise to me, somebody who usually has to add a Big Old Dart for the twins. Seeing as all the projects to date have been under the old sizing system, I asked them what, if any, changes were made in the new combined system. Turns out I was right, the GG 16 is the base size from which the rest evolved! This is Trudy's response:

"when we did the new multisize range, we combined all the sizes into one...but this won't affect you because our 'base' size (eg the one smack in the middle of the sizes) is the 16...by which I mean that the GG 16 and the multisize 16 are the same, with just minor differences from pattern to pattern to allow for the style details....basically this means that as far as you are concerned, it shouldn't matter whether you use the GG 16 or the multisize 16, they are the same! There are very minor differences at the upper & lower end of the size ranges, but we're talking 1/4" here or there across the shoulders for instance, nothing too drastic."

Wrt the coat, she also helped on the cuff problem. The sleeves must really have lengthened a lot due to the bias cut as the contrast is meant to be a cuff extension not a contrast. Again, Trudy:

"the cuffs are basically an extra 'add-on' to the bottom of the sleeves...so you join the sleeves to the cuffs, then just treat this sleeve/cuff combo as a sleeve...so if you need to adjust the sleeve length, you'd remove any extra from the bottom edge of the sleeve (or, if you wish, half the extra from the bottom edge of the sleeve, half from top edge of the cuff) then just join them together and you're good to go. You don't have a turn-back cuff on these sleeves."

The illustration does not show the double cuff detail, and I think I like the idea of just sewing a contrast cuff. So, I am off to severely reduce the length of the sleeve and then construct the cuff in the normal fashion with the contrast on top. That way the edges are all enclosed nicely.

The second interview has been rescheduled for Monday. One of the managers is unavailable until then. More time to sew ... maybe a pair of Dragon Cargo pants and a twist turtleneck to go with it? And topped off by the Cherry Blossom coat!

HP Bo Ho Deluxe Lacy Wrap Cardigan

Thanks to the second job interview, I am getting more of my HP patterns done in a short period of time! I managed to get the bodice and collar of the HP cardigan cut and put together. I am using a very lightweight sweater knit bought on sale with Christmas money from the MIL, so this is one of her gifts to me. Again this is intended to be a very wearable muslin as I have yet to find just the right knit for this sweater, but I do need something for Friday. I like the shawl collar and the slight double breasted styling, although I am not a ribbon and lace person, so that will be modified!

Once again, I cut out the GG 16 and just went with it as is. So far this has worked for me. While the cardigan is not as double breasted on me as the model, I think I like it a little less overlapped anyway for my figure. But, the pattern still seems to have enough give, especially with only 3/8" s.a. that are allowed.

The pattern is intended for "cut and sew knits", sweatshirt fleece and stretchy rib knits. The one review I have seen of this pattern argued that this pattern is better designed for wovens due to the requirement to interface the collar facing. Apparently when she did it, the bodice was too stiff. In the making of my coat and now this cardigan, I read up on shawl collars. Threads magazine (Jan 2004) recommends that to maintain the look of the jacket, you fuse the front of the jacket and even put a second layer above the roll line. That would make a knit cardigan very heavy. As the fabric I chose has a boucle look to it, but is very lightweight, I decided to go ahead and interface anyway. I used a lightweight fusi knit for the facings and also for the area above the roll line of the bodice. I also reinforced the dart in the bodice with a second strip of interfacing to support the dart. I always fuse a scrap to the shoulders, but this time, I extended it to the back neck seamline as well as stay stitching. I have no illusions about this fabric, but I want it to look good for Friday! So far, my choices seem to be working. The fusi-knit is lightweight enough that it provides support but does not overpower the fabric or the lie of the collar.

So far, the instruction in this pattern are extremely well written. They follow a logical sequence and are easy to understand for me. I recommend reading them thoroughly before you sew as they have a unique treatment for the attaching the shawl collar facing. Trudy has you pin the facing on, RS together but not stitch along the edge. You only stitch the bottom to the hemline. After you flip, you attach the facing by binding the edges together. The binding shown on the collar actually encloses the raw edges. Included in the instructions are guidelines for making your own binding. For this version, I did not bind, but stitched them RS together and then across the hemline and then flipped. I also stitched in the ditch at the CB neck seam and also at the shoulder to anchor the neck facings. Because of the boucle effect, I may even top stitch the collar facing's interior edge as well. The stitches will be hidden in the texture of the fabric.

All I have left to do is to do the sleeves, the ties, the s.s. and the hem. I may use the diff feed on the serger and attempt a lettuce hem for the sleeves. After all, I do have another day ...maybe I can get the HP Dragon Cargo pants started as I try to figure out those cuffs on the coat!

Call backs and cuffs ....

Thanks for all the good wishes regarding the interview yesterday. I got a phone call tonight to schedule the second interview with the rest of the management team of the Fitness Centre. Looks like Friday I will have that second interview. What am I going to throw together now that I have an extra night to plan? Can't wear the same jacket twice in one week. At least, not the same fabric one ... I will have to examine the pattern file and see what I have that will be fast. I have a Silhouette pattern for a jacket that I can do easily. They usually fit without any alterations. Or, I pull out the HP Cardigan resting in the wait pile. I can put together a wearable muslin with fabric in the stash. I seem to have good luck with the GG sizing, so let's see if it works as well as the others!

For some reason I can't get the cuffs right on this Cherry Blossom coat. After talking with Kay Y. and Mary Beth today, I think that the problem is one of my own making. The problem is that the sleeve, without the cuff, is the perfect length for me. When I add the cuff, it needs folding back to lie correctly. This happened in the muslin as well, and as the fold back equalled the cuff width perfectly, I assumed that meant the cuff and the contrast panel would be folded back onto the sleeve. Therein lies my problem. When I stitch the contrast cuff to the cuff facing and then fold it back, I have way too many layers at the hemline. The problem is, the instructions are a bit dodgy so I have been puzzling and ripping for 2 days to figure this out.

It wasn't until after I had coffee with Kay this a.m. that I came to the conclusion that my assumption is most likely faulty. I think the fold was sheer coincidence and the extra length is due to the bias cut of the jacket sleeves. So, I sent Trudy an e-mail to see if I am right before I cut on the line that I have marked on the sleeve. I am so close to having this coat done that I am frustrated beyond belief! I can't carry on until I know ... and once cut, I can't put it back!

I have commented before that the HP patterns always assume some skill and should not be taken lightly. But (how I hate that word ...) this pattern's instructions are muddled to say the least. I couldn't figure the sequence given for construction. It was not logical to say the least. So, I read them to look for unique things that I need to be aware of and then I went on my own. Which I tend to do more often as I progress in my sewing. I usually follow the same routine: assemble the fronts, the backs, attach the sleeves, collars and cuffs. Repeat for the lining and then take a deep breath and hope that I have the lining done right and that I won't see s.a. after I attach the lining. Yup, I saw the s.a. last night and had to frog stitch the lining and redo it so that the lining was silk out after I bag it as opposed to fleece out! That is one reason why I don't call myself an advanced sewer. Until I can do that easily, I am staying intermediate! Another reason to make another jacket tonight and tomorrow!

Cross your fingers on Friday and stay tuned!

Late Night Creations

Last night I burned a bit of midnight oil trying to throw something to wear to last minute job interview. Diva MB and I were talking and we agreed that the HP Sportive Skirt Suit Jacket would be perfect for the occasion as the interview was for an admin job at a local fitness centre. She didn't think I was serious when I mused about whether it would be possible to put it together in two hours or less. If it was possible, I had a new jacket for the interview. If not, I would at least have
a muslin done for when I am ready to cut the stretch velvet assigned to it from the stash. Win win, right?

The pattern has the same basic design as the HP Cherry Blossom coat currently co-habiting the workshop. Two piece raglan sleeves cut on the bias give the sleeves and the shoulder a very nice line. They curve so nicely over my sloped shoulders and flare out at the wrist. At least they would have, had I enough fabric in the chosen piece to do a full length sleeve! I was short fabric, so I shortened the sleeves to elbow length. I omitted the lining as speed was the goal here, and this was intended to be a tres casual jacket anyway. I like the shorter length sleeve. It gives a bit of a vintage feel to the jacket and also allows me to wear this jacket in the warmer weather as well. I will use the full length sleeve on the velvet as I don't usually wear black stretch velvet in warmer weather! I did not use the hoodie version of this jacket as I am not a hood person unless it is outerwear. Living in a climate where you usually have to wear a parka with a hood, having another hood underneath is not comfortable to me.

As this pattern is in the older sizing system, you should know that I do NOT sew the much complained about Slinky size range. I am very definitely a Glamour Girl. The princess seaming is very generously cut in the side pieces, making a flattering front for somebody with the shape to fit them! I cut out a 16, larger than my usual 14 as I wanted to be able to take in seams rather than have to add. As this was a (hopefully) fast muslin, I wanted to see if I could get away without my usual FBA. What are the chances, considering I usually have to add 2-3" across the front for the Girls? I held my breath and cut the 16 in the pattern. I pinned it to Mindy and it appeared like it would work even though I did not use a stretch fabric. So, I took another deep breath (and a huge sip of caffeine) and cut the fabric.

The fit was divine! It did not need any alterations at all. It has enough ease that I could easily wear a sweater underneath (assuming I had LS), so I could probably use 1" s.a. to make a closer fit next time, especially since I am going to use a stretch velvet. This makes me sad that HP discontinued the older range of sizes, but considering the large number of problems with the Slinky range, I can see why they did it. I wonder if the GG is the basis from which they graded to the Slinky and Curvy ranges?





I used the serger for this entire project, except for the facings and applying the collar and zipper. I used a Riri zipper that I bought from Londa's. Originally intended for a denim jacket, the zipper has multi-coloured teeth. This zipper really makes the jacket, I think. The colours really pop against the green in a way that I don't think they would have against the denim. Diva Ann once mentionned that the choice of a closure can drastically affect the finished garment. I have to agree with this. This zipper really jazzes this green jacket up.

I am most definitely sewing this again after the Cherry Blossom coat is done later tonight. I see this in the stretch velvet and even in a wool or denim with some piping on the raglan seaming. This pattern has replaced the McCall's pattern languishing in the stash in a similar style but for the sleeves. After the velvet is done, I see making a pair of pants to go with them. I have some nice red gabardine that I may finally get the courage up to sew into pants. Then I just need the guts to wear red pants! Being the product of a conservative mother, the thought of red pants has me doing a bit of an irrational twitch ... but that is another post altogether!

But it was a gift ....

Well, I went to the chain fabric store and searched for faux suede. I fond some, but it wasn't on sale, and I really only needed about a length of 6" at full width to allow for practice runs. So, I went to the remnant and clearance sale table and found some really nice velvet in a chocolate brown. That will complement the wool nicely, I think. The browns are close enough for the purposes of buttonholes. And it was on sale, too! Into the basket it went ... along with a nice blue sweater knit that 2 metres left and a nice burgundy textured knit as well. Perfect for the first round of the "twisted turtleneck", I think! I may have to line it, though. The Pilot says it is a bit see through. I think I have enough black interlock to underline the bodice at least ... I know I am supposed to be shopping the stash, but this stuff can't count as it was a gift. That's right, a gift. The MIL gave me a $25 GC for Fabricland (our national chain) and I had to spend it, right? No choice there or I risk offending the DMIL.

I don't need any more patterns right now as my last HP order has arrived. 6 more patterns for the table! Most of which can be done with stash fabric! Which ones? Razor Sharp pants, the Everyday Pants, the Bollywood dress for the Pilot's grad in the summer, one of the last Kensington Jackets, and the 2 classic shirts (princess and plain although the actual names escape me at the moment). That makes a lot of HP's to sew up in the next while. Sounds like a resolution to me! The only one I will make ... to sew up as many of the HP patterns in the stash as I can in the next 3-6 months. That should take me to the spring offering, don't you think?

Still on the subject of gifts, in their quest for ever more roast chicken, the two men in my life conspired together this Christmas and bought me not one, but 2 beer can chicken stands. Their philosophy being that now I can roast 2 birds at once in the oven and they can have more crunchy, spiced skin. Now, this type of cooking is not really well known to me, although I hear it is a big thing in some areas of the US. So, while I was fabric shopping, the Pilot and the monkeys went next door to the grocery store (yup, cruel world, isn't it? fabric and food in one location!) and bought a chicken. We came home and the Pilot did his duty, drinking half a can of beer so that we could use the rest for the bird. Messy way of cooking, I must say. Splatter ervywhere, although that could be the bird's fault. Very fatty bird. The result was ultra moist meat, but a messy oven. The skin wasn't as roasted as I would have liked either ... too much steam from the beer perhaps? Advice would be welcome from those more experienced in this ...

Twist Tops

I was just over visiting the Sewing Divas blog. Diva Phyllis showed some wonderful examples of how that famous twist top has evolved from a simple V neck. She showed a photo of a twist top turtleneck. That's right, a turtleneck with style. I was thinking of how the construction of this woudl be fairly easy to accomplish. Phyllis pointed out the CF seamlines already that makes this possible, so I won't repeat it here. But this is a nice compromise for this top. There is still the fashionable twist, but there is no underbust band like in the WOF version. The girls don't need that type of accentuation, thanks! The V neck alone is usually sufficient ... But I like the option of the T-Neck a lot. And why stop there? Why not a jewel neckline instead?

There was a similar mod to the twist top a year or so ago by ">Mlle Laura over at Pattern Review. In her version, she eliminated the underbust band and converted the upper bodice into 2 pieces. I loved that version and had planned on making it this season. The only thing holding me back was the deep V neck. I am getting tired of it even though I know it is a flattering look for me. Variety is the spice of life after all! So, thanks to Phyllis and Macy's, I am going to have that T-neck for the winter! Ressy is bringing in some new samples of sweater knit as well ... coincidence or fate?

It also reminds my of a OOP DKNY pattern for a woven top. If I were to take an existing Turtleneck pattern and copy the placement of the bodice slit, then I would have the top from Macy's. I also think that I should revisit the DKNY top. I do love the top, even though it is a bit sung thanks to a gaff in taking it in. If I did so, I would add buttons to the placket and shape the lower bodice a bit more to avoid the maternity look it can give due to its loose fit. I dropping in on Darrell on Wednesday ... maybe I will look at his shirting samples and see what calls my name. I see this in a nice crisp white or even a nice balanced blue or maybe even a fine red stripe if placed correctly.

How NOT to plan Bound buttonholes (or why not to clean the cutting table so fast!)

First of all, my shop is not usually a mess. Yes, I have a "muslin" pile under the cutting table. I have bags of trims and ribbing in the closet on the floor but only because I have yet to determine where to hang them in the shop's new configuration. The work tables are clear but for the projects on hand. But this week, I made a big boo boo. I cleaned the fabric scraps from the Cherry Blossom coat off the table and cut out the contrast cuffs form the last remnant. I then tossed the scraps. Totally forgetting that I was planning bound buttonholes for the coat. Now I have no fabric with which to do them.

I have no more of the wool and do not want to delay any longer in getting this done. So, I am off to the local fabric chain (not Darrell's, that comes on Wednesday) to see what I can find for the buttonholes. Maybe I can get some nice faux suede in navy, brown, or black. Good thing I have a GC from Christmas ...

Happy 2007!!!

It is now 2007! We had a quiet end to our year. The younger monkey stayed up till 9:00 pm and watched a Polly Pocket movie. The elder got to stay up till midnight, watching Jurassic Park. Even though it was a hard thing to watch him struggle to stay up, he had done his part in napping this afternoon and agreeing to sleep in, so we let him hang in there and then carried him to bed after the ball went down in Times Square. While the movies were on, I went into the shop to sew ...

Last week, I had cut with an extra 5/8" s.a. and plan on sewing a full 1". I am not going to trim in back except in the curved areas. Even though I am lining this coat, the wool is a bit ravelly, so I am going to serge the edges of the wool. I am also going to machine baste the fleece to the silk at 1/4" from the edge. I could not fit the bias sleeves in the jacket I was going to recycle. So, that jacket is going to stay in the back of the cupboard for a while. That way I can use it for other things if I need it. I managed to find enough fleece in the stash. It isn't a microfleece, but it is a 100 wt, so I think it will be OK.

I managed to baste the fleece to the silk and do the darts on the front lining. I have the back pleats pinned, but want to compare to the facing before I sew as there are no markings. The sleeves are stitched to the fronts and back and the pockets are assembled, flipped, and slipstitched. Ready to attach to the coat tomorrow after I serge the edges of the wool. I know that it will all be hidden by the lining, but I really am trying to raise my standards a bit on this project. I am taking my time and relishing working with these fabrics ...

There has been much said about the instructions in HP patterns. I am not quite intermediate, but I do have a fair amount of knowledge under my belt. The instructions state that you have to know how to sew a shawl collar but do not elaborate further. To me, that assumes that you know to reinforce the corner with interfacing and then staytitch before clipping into the corner. The only other observation is regarding some missing hash marks for matching facing pieces, but as I tend not to use them anyway, I am not too upset. The muslins went together fine without them. As others have mentioned, Trudy and Jeremy assume that you have a certain amount of either general knowledge or a good reference book. For instance, the patch pockets are lined and faced. you are told to leave a gap in the seam joining the facing to the lining and then to stitch to the pocket. You are not told to trim, clip curves or corners or flip the pocket. Common sense tells you this. I really see myself growing in confidence as I sew HP projects as I am better able to see what lies ahead and expand my skills sets. For me, sewing is a journey in relaxation. The fact that I get a wonderful piece of clothing at the end is even better!

Well, I am off to bed. The New Year is here and I have one more wonderful week with the Pilot before he heads back to school. Lots of family time and there may even be a date in there as well ... we won $100 on the lottery Friday night. That paid for pizza and donairs for supper tonight and the movies after. We may be able to get a babysitter out of it as well seeing as we have movie passes! Rather than making any resolutions, I am counting my blessings and enjoying what I have. May you do the same in the rest of this year!

After the muslins ...

Remember that red silk that wasn't? Turns out it was black and was in a totally different location than I was looking. My sleeve linings are going to be blue in the front and black in the back. Love stash scraps, don't you?

I managed to cut out the rest of the coat and the interfacing as well. I can now sit and start sewing. It will be great to be off my foot for a while. I had enough of the blue to get the entire coat cut out with the brown for the pocket and collar facings. I am going to self line the pocket with the brown wool. The Obi belt seemed really wide on me, so I cut the width back in half. I don't think I am tall enough to carry a belt that wide, although really did emphasize the waist nicely...

I hope to have some major progress to post tomorrow. The Pilot comes home tomorrow, a whole day early! Gives me butterflies even though he was just home last week. Knowing that we have him for 2 whole weeks makes this even better. That is present enough! I am lucky that he is only up the road 5 hours and not deployed, though. After 18 years of trying, he has not yet gone. I know it will come eventually. Maybe this is my year in training? I am counting my blessings ...

It hit me today that there are 5 days till Christmas and I have yet to start the little monkey's skirt, big monkey's top and anything for me (not counting the coat). The Pilot's shirt, we have agreed, can wait for Darrell. I was going to make the Trumpet skirt, but heels and I won't mix for another couple of weeks, I think. I thought I would start the HP Dragon pants and throw together a twist top ... depends on how fast the rest comes together, I think. Well, I have pulled off more in less time, so I guess I just have to get at it! Supper first then time with the kids. Once they are in bed, away I go ...

Shirts ... again!

Well, in keeping with a holiday tradition in the Newman household, I had the Pilot try on a muslin for a shirt. And once again, I have a nice fit in the back and the shoulders are an easy fix, but there is so much fluff in the front and for some reason it doesn't want to lie straight. I have decided to just stop trying to fix the KS pattern. I am going to start the muslin on the Vogue pattern instead. I hope to have that muslin done by Monday. Then I can make an appointment with Darrell for a fitting session. Maybe he can figure this out ...


I found some wonderful stretch velvet on eBay last week. A wonderful melange of browns and gold that the photo does not do justice! This will become a holiday dress and skirt for the little monkey and the HP Chilled Out Sweatsuit tunic top. I have some more of the velvet coming in a red floral pattern on black. I am not sure what that will become yet, but I am sure the little Monkey will claim some for herself. She was wandering around the family room with the fabric draped around her like a toga for a while. She is now sitting with an arm on the box it came in. I can see that this will be a fast project to sew and I will have to do my best to keep her out of it before Mass this weekend!

In the planning stage of the HP coat, I asked for and received plenty of advice regarding insulation and linings. People from all across the continent gave me help, but in the end, I needed somebody who is in the same climate as me to help out. So, I spoke to Kay, a fellow sewer in Ottawa about coats and thermal layers for our city. She just reviewed a wonderful coat on Pattern Review. I needed some advice about whether or not to actually sew in the MM thermal layer in my coat. I have it cut out and will stitch it together, but I will hold off actually putting it in between the lining and the wool. If I really need it, I will fashion it as an under vest layer. I like how Kay managed to add a front zipper to her coat and am going to shamelessly copy her closure ideas.

I managed the past two days without crutches. This morning, I managed to get a lot of shopping and driving done. I also managed to do some wrapping this while the kids were at school. The downside is that I was standing on carpeted concrete wihtou slippers. My foot is now very sore. I needed to put it up this afternoon for a while. Time to put movies on for the kids and rest! I picked up "The Devil Wears Prada" this afternoon to cut and sew by tonight. But first I have to take some Ibuprofen ... and maybe order in Chinese for supper!

How not to get your holiday sewing done on time ...

Well, all my plans for sewing this season have fallen through the cracks. OK, fallen down the stairs ... the last one step to be specific. I am in a golden position to nothing but sewing as I have a bad foot sprain, but I can't do any standing for any period of time. There lies the problem. I have nothing cut out. Lots of time to sew, but nothing cut! No new patterns to study, no new books/mags to read (the spousal Santa should have picked up the new WOF for me, so I don't dare go pick it up. Not that I could as I can't drive right now! ARGH!!!

I think I am going to brave it for a bit anyway as I am going nuts trying to be still and keep the foot elevated. This could be a golden opportunity to get some of those Silhouette patterns done up as they usually don't need any FBA. And maybe the kids' clothes ... Elder monkey wants some of those tops that have the mock double sleeve with (gasp) a collar and younger monkey needs a new skirt to go with the cutie lace top I bought her for Christmas Day Mass. I have some black velour I can do up for that ... maybe with some red accents. I could add some godets for a really twirly skirt. Maybe I should look through my OD back issues to see what I can find. Then there are those T's for the Pilot; those can be cut and produce in a production line.

This is much better. I was dreading the fact that I can't work on the coat as that would take too much standing to cut out all at once and there would be no sewing in between. I think what I have to do is organize and multi task. I can't work on the coat until the lining is done. Ergo, I cut the lining and interfacing first with a top or two as well. When I need to elevate, I sew. When I can stand for a short period, cut tops.

The coat can be cut quickly once the lining and interlining is put together. I have enough of the main colour to use self fabric for the sleeve interlining as I don't want to use my thermal layer there. It would be too bulky and take away from the bias drape of the sleeves. I can also cut out some swatches and practice bound buttonholes on the wool. If I am satisfied with the results, I can go ahead with those. IF not, then I will do button loops and maybe hide a zipper in the overlap. I also remembered that I have some more silk charmeuse in the stash. I have some wonderful Christmas red left from a formal I made a couple of years ago. Whether or not it will be enough to line the bias sleeves, I am not sure. Will have to go digging in the cedar chest. If not, then maybe I can use it for the facings, freeing up more of the navy for the sleeves and body.

The Pilot and the monkeys are being so wonderful right now. They did the groceries this morning while I was getting my hair done. The elder monkey actually volunteered to walk his sister to school yesterday. Huge advance for him to actually volunteer to miss some playground time and be seen socially in public with her. I was so proud of him, making his own lunch and her breakfast as well. He even drew her bath for me so that I would not have to do the stairs last night as the Pilot had not arrived home yet. Whatever other things they do, as monkeys tend to go crazy quite often this time of year, I have been blessed with wonderful children. Their behaviour reinforces to me that the Pilot and I are raising them well. I think that is the best present I could ever receive ...(the gingerbread tree brought home from school by the younger monkey as a get well gift is a close second)!

The new Hot Patterns baby arrived this week. Two monkeys in their home now ... may they be as happy and blessed as I feel right now. Congratulations, Trudy, Jeremy and Gideon!

POST SCRIPT

A trip into the cedar chest revealed only a beaded silk remnant, no charmeuse. So, I found some Ambience lining that was bought for some floral chiffon and will use that for the sleeves instead. Another find was some Malden Mills Windbloc microfleece. There was just enough to use as a thin thermal layer for the body of the coat. If I cannabilize a jacket that I no longer wear, I can have more for the sleeves. Having a thin layer of windbloc will be very helpful. So, tomorrow, I get to recycle fabric and a coat length zipper while I elevate my foot. When I finished digging, I managed to stand long enough to get the lining and thermal layer cut out for the body. I have enough charmeuse to cut the neckline facings as well. Tomorrow, while standing, I will cut those and the contrast neck facing and interface.

Next steps ...

The "new" serger arrived yesterday. I threw together a TNT pattern to test it out. I used a silkweight powerdry to line an unruly sweater knit in a pullover top. It is amazing how differential feed makes certain fabrics behave! This is just what I needed to get out of a bit of a sewing slump.

I just finished the lining muslin for the coat. I needed to take a short break to prep a chicken for supper. This can prevent so much hurt from happening. I am going to start cutting as soon as that bird is in the oven! I am going to start with the lining and then work my way out so that I can adjust up as I go if I need to. I don’t have enough of the silk charmeuse to do the sleeve lining, so I either have to go see Darrell or use some other fabric in the stash for the sleeve linings. Seeing as I have used my fabric budget for December already, I think I may hide the poly in the sleeves. So, I will cut the lining and facings today and then I should be able to get them interfaced and stay stitched soon. If nothing else, I will get to finish the edges of the fabrics with the new machine (any excuse to use the new one!)

The Pilot is home for an extended weekend and I am getting my hair done tomorrow and I may even do some more Christmas shopping if I get brave enough to go to Toys R Us on a Saturday ... I still need to get this year's Lego instalment for the kids. Girl Monkey is finally getting her own box so that she can stop bugging her brother!

Independance is worth it!

Even though I live in a national capital city, there aren't that many fabric stores. There are the usual Canadian chain stores (Fabricville and BouClair) and precious few indies. Darrell Thomas Textiles is one of those. His boutique is so cozy and full of fine fabrics ... and upstairs he is putting up some examples of garments made from his fabrics. After years of having people beg to purchase his samples, he is now producing items for sale as well. And his button wall, oh my! Lovely selection and his staff certainly know how to help pick buttons for your projects! I will get Darrell to order in some Italian shirting for me for the Vogue shirt. For that one, Darrell is going to help me with the fitting. I had registered and paid for a class in the fall that ended up getting cancelled, so we are going to use my credits up in custom fitting sessions for the Pilot's shirts. That way I know the fit will be right!

I am really lucky in having Darrell's little shop. While I cannot always afford the fabrics, nor would they suit my stay at home Mom lifestyle (I can't see me wearing a silk blouse to do housework or bake ... I don't live on Wisteria Lane!), I have bought some lovely wools there. I have a really nice wool sweater knit that I am fell in love with at first sight and had to have! When the ccredit card, agreed, it was a no brainer! Just the knowledge that if/when I need first hand advice or need a special piece of cloth for a garment, I can go to Darrell is so worth it! I make the trip downtown to buy good quality interfacing and linings now. I save the cahin store trips for kids wear and costumes now. I belive that I am turning into a fabric snob, although looking at my stash you might not believe it! Maybe a snob in transition?

Thinking about Shirts ...

Like my friend MB over at The Stitchery, I am also on the quest for the perfect men's shirt for the man in my life. The pilot husband is built like a line backer and loved to work out so that he can "keep up with the kids". This means his back is very well developed as is his upper chest and neck. Without knowing better, he always thought that having a shoulder seam half way to his elbow and a yoke seam below the shoulder blades made a shirt fit "right". After finding a Geoffrey Beene shirt in a thrift shop a couple of years ago, he now knows better. The shoulder seam is only slightly dropped and the sides are not so loose fitted anymore. I would still like to see him in a trimmer fit, though. Having a looser fit in the body puts about 20 pounds on him that he doesn't really have! So, I have been working off and on (more off than on with him away this year) on this for him. I told him I wanted to get him something other than the usual tool, CD, book combination for Christmas this year. He then told me "How about a nice, soft cotton shirt in a heavier weight?" Not one for a tie, but a casual wear shirt that he can wear open.

So, looks like I will get him to try on the last muslin again and see where the new starting point is. The muslin is the old standby, KS 2777. I also have Vogue 8096, recommended by my friend Darrell Thomas, owner and instructor at Darrell Thomas Textiles, here in Ottawa. He makes his shirts and they are an amazing fit! I think that all the play with KS to get the shoulder seam and neckline will be fine for a relaxed fit, casual shirt. But I really like the look of the Vogue one. Newman's Needle received a Christmas present from The Stitchery a couple of weeks ago and I think that might just become the KS shirt.

Knowing When to Stop

I was reading a thread over at SG the other day about slowing down your sewing to gain more accuracy in order to prevent mistakes. I agree with that and posted my own rule about stopping at collars, cuffs, sleeves and waistbands. When tired, these are the places most likely to require frog stitching the next day. As I attacked yet another mod in my attempt at drafting the perfect cut on hooded shawl collar for my HP coat, I realized that I need to stop. I have done 4 versions and none have worked and I am no closer to the vision in my head. However, there is snow on the ground and more coming. The temps are steadily around the freezing point and lower. I need to have this coat finished so that I can wear it. It is not yet cold enough for the down coat already in the closet, but it is getting too cold for just the Gore-Tex and a sweater.

So, last night I took the muslins and started to cut back the hood to leave just a widened shawl collar. I then made the changes to the pattern. I have tweaked the fit enough that I think it will be a good fit. I am going to finish the lining muslin tonight and then I am going to cut the windbloc interlining. If it feels right between the muslins, I will then go and start cutting the real thing.

Why wait till tonight when I had all afternoon? Because I have to design the layout of 3 pages for the in laws family calendar and I really have to finish painting the dining room. We have one wall left to do, but I can't do that one as it involves moving the china cabinet and removing all the contents ahead of time. Need to have the Pilot here for that one. What is the good of him working out at the gym and staying so buff if I can't drool over him once in a while while he works, right? So, I will start the calendar pages once I am finished here and then take them to the Posties.

When I get home, I will put on some music from Loreena MacKennit's new album. I love the blends of cultures in her music. Her music is what I imagine ancient bards used to be. When I listened to this one clip, I realized that I had not bought any of her latest albums. I have 2 or 3 already, but this one I love! I love the fusion of the eastern and western music. Sting has another track I love for the same reason ... I love his song "Desert Rose". Great sewing music, even the little monkey loves it. It "helps [her] concentrate" when she is sewing, she says.

The Pilot has another week of work away before his 2 week break, so I am going to get a late start on the holiday sewing marathon this year. Usually I get going after the second Sunday of Advent as he occupies the kids at night and I disappear into the sewing room. I have't even gone looking for fabric for the DD's dress yet, let alone started Pilot's new shirt muslin or even my own holiday clothes. Then again, if I cam going to get that HP Trumpet skirt done, I am going to need some boots to go with it ... So, which comes first, the skirt or the boots? Shoe divas, help me out here!

Some good news, although I said I was going to wait and save my money for a new serger, the need to reward myself for those casual hours and saving $ combined with the Scottish genes from my father. Last week I found a New Home 234 D serger in excellent shape on eBay. I tried real hard to not get my hopes up as I did with that Janome that I lost. But God was with me on this one. I was the only bidder and got the serger for $75 plus shipping. I had the shipping costs already in the Paypal account from selling a few back issues of WOF that I no longer wanted. Combined with the money I earned/saved, I had enough saved that the post shipping tune up will be paid for as well!

So, by next week, when I am ready to start sewing the wool and silk, I will have a differential feed serger in the shop, ready to play ... Good thigns come to those who wait. Last week, somebody else waited to the last minute and took the other machine and now I have one as well. Patience and persistance to pay off! And I paid less for this one which make sit even better in my books! This machine is not TOL, but it will last me a few more years as I get used to using 2 needles and the diff feed. Hopefully it will last a long time and I can start saving for an actual new sewing machine. That one will not be an eBay buy as I want to test drive many different brands. The German blood in me wants a Pfaff, but I really like the Huqvarnas ... lots of feet to play with. And button holes are a big issue with me. I will be doing lots of road testing on my own fabric swatches once I am able to actually go out and buy. Of course, this could happen as soon as this fall if we are posted ... I get a share of the next leftover posting $ for my workshop. The last one went to a table saw, shop vac, drill press, new drill and numerous hand tools. None of which I mind, BTW.

We have a deal, the Pilot and I. As much as he spends in his shop, I get to spend in mine. And we only count items bought brand new, not used items. So far, I am at a potential buy of about $1000 (Canadian). Now, if only I can convince him to get that chop saw ... Of course all of this has an ulterior motive. He has promised that when he removes his uniform, and we have settled into our home of choice, he will build me a custom workshop. Considering that is at least another 10 years off, I/we have lots of gear to buy to deserve the wonderful shop I am envisioning ...

Linings and facings Part 1

I needed to take some time away from the coat yesterday. I had added an extra 5/8" s.a. to account for the interlining and sewed at only 5/8". This made the coat very large and bulky even over a heavy sweater and a length of the lining fabric underneath. So, I went back and stitched a larger s.a. to make a total of 1" from the cut line on one side of the muslin. This still gives me an extra 1/2" per seam so I think I will have more than enough room now without looking like I am wearing a tent. When I sew the re-stitched side, I was much happier. I stitched the lining/facings the same way, at 1". so far so good.

I have mentioned before that there are lots of pieces to the lining for this coat. Rather than just a front, back and sleeve lining, there are also back neck facing, front and back shoulder facings and the 2 piece front facing that is also the shawl collar/hood. I have the pieces all cut out and have the facings put together and am now working on the lining. The facing pieces had no connecting marks, but they are pretty obvious since this is a raglan sleeve, matching the proper angles was easy.

I have redrafted the hood again. I am still not happy with it. Part of it is also because I did not extend the CB neckline seam enough to account for the extra s.a. I added at the 2 piece sleeves and the CB. I was forging along until I realized that I had forgotten to add the extra s.a. from the sleeve seams (cerebral rot moment ... otherwise known as sewing till almost midnight). If this hood draft does not work, I will draft a separate hood that will button onto the coat body. Or, here's a novel thought - wear a hat!

As it is now the weekend, I am not gong to do much on the coat. The Pilot is home and we are taking the Monkeys to a local Museum that we have not yet been to. Then Sunday afternoon is family portrait time followed too quickly by the Pilot leaving again.

Another thing that has me a bit bummed out is that I lost the auction on eBay for that serger. I had it up till the final minute when somebody else came in and swooped it out from under me. There was no time to counterbid. I am so disappointed. I had my hopes up when there was no activity against my bid for over a full 24 hours. Oh well, that's life on eBay, right? Make your bid and take your chances ... I guess this may be a sign that I should wait and keep saving and buy new, right? After all, I have dealers for all the brands here, all it will take is me deciding which one I want/afford. And how long I am willing to wait to get there!