More on HP Sizing

I have been teasing Trudy and Jeremy at Hot patterns that they had sneaked over the border and stole my bodice sloper. The fact that their most recent patterns fit so well without any alterations was a very pleasant surprise to me, somebody who usually has to add a Big Old Dart for the twins. Seeing as all the projects to date have been under the old sizing system, I asked them what, if any, changes were made in the new combined system. Turns out I was right, the GG 16 is the base size from which the rest evolved! This is Trudy's response:

"when we did the new multisize range, we combined all the sizes into one...but this won't affect you because our 'base' size (eg the one smack in the middle of the sizes) is the 16...by which I mean that the GG 16 and the multisize 16 are the same, with just minor differences from pattern to pattern to allow for the style details....basically this means that as far as you are concerned, it shouldn't matter whether you use the GG 16 or the multisize 16, they are the same! There are very minor differences at the upper & lower end of the size ranges, but we're talking 1/4" here or there across the shoulders for instance, nothing too drastic."

Wrt the coat, she also helped on the cuff problem. The sleeves must really have lengthened a lot due to the bias cut as the contrast is meant to be a cuff extension not a contrast. Again, Trudy:

"the cuffs are basically an extra 'add-on' to the bottom of the sleeves...so you join the sleeves to the cuffs, then just treat this sleeve/cuff combo as a sleeve...so if you need to adjust the sleeve length, you'd remove any extra from the bottom edge of the sleeve (or, if you wish, half the extra from the bottom edge of the sleeve, half from top edge of the cuff) then just join them together and you're good to go. You don't have a turn-back cuff on these sleeves."

The illustration does not show the double cuff detail, and I think I like the idea of just sewing a contrast cuff. So, I am off to severely reduce the length of the sleeve and then construct the cuff in the normal fashion with the contrast on top. That way the edges are all enclosed nicely.

The second interview has been rescheduled for Monday. One of the managers is unavailable until then. More time to sew ... maybe a pair of Dragon Cargo pants and a twist turtleneck to go with it? And topped off by the Cherry Blossom coat!