Tuesday, January 16, 2007

There Be Dragons ...

I have started the next HP project. The Wong Sing Jones Dragon Cargo Pants are one the table and the muslin is half done. I likes this pant due to the lines of the leg. This pattern also has that right angle crotch curve that has received rave reviews. I want to see how that fits my shape. I have two different pants from WOF patterns that also had 2 piece legs and the fit were wonderful. This pattern has an additional horizontal cut below the knee and the casual back and cargo pockets. It is also meant for lighter weight fabrics. I just happen to have a lightweight brown wool gab in the stash from a Fabric Mart mystery bundle that I think would be perfect for this pattern, especially if I could find just the right teal colour for the top stitching.

So far, I have I cut out the size 16 without any changes. The last HP pant I did was the Skinny Jean and the 16 GG had room for me to play with, so this should be the same. For this first muslin I am using a mystery wool blend from my mother's stash. It is a heathered stone wash denim blue. As this is a muslin, I have not pre-treated the fabric. I am interested in the fit, so if it turns out to be wearable, then I have to hope it does not shrink too much. And hope it softens up a lot!

The instructions on this pattern are great. The sequencing is easy and there are no surprises. The zip application is slightly different from what I have done before. Unlike the Betzina method, there is no cut on extension or fly shield. You sew these on. The application of the extension to the leg and then stitch the zip to the extension and topstitch. Then you apply the zip to the shield and then the shield to the leg. As I was doing this, it seemed to be the reverse of what I am used to doing. I also had to rip part of the topstitching out to get a good seamline on the zipper and shield. I will add a cut on extension and insert the zipper using the Betzina method. Much easier for me. And I am going to topstitch using my regular foot vice the zipper foot as mentioned in Threads recently.

The pants are assembled and the first try on has occurred. If I had already lost the 25 pounds I am working on, the fit would be perfect! However, these are for now, so no photos will be posted. I can't close the zipper, so I have two options ahead of me. For the purposes of this muslin, I can let out the seams above the crotch area. I am going to start with the CB and the s.s. and see how that goes for the back and then open up the centre seam on the front legs. If I go down to 3/8" s.a. that will give me 2 1/2" extra to work with. Another option is to re-cut the front pieces only and straighten out the CF seamline. Right now it is one big dart. Putting it on-grain would give me another 2" as well. That would be less work to accomplish and I have extra fabric ... and lots of spare zips. So I think I will remove the front leg pieces and recut on grain and see if that will do it. When I attached the waistband, I stitched each piece to the leg and then sewed the s.s. and CB, so removing the band is not a problem. It is machine basted anyway.

Even with this little speedbump, I think that I will have the quickest pair of pants out of the envelope ever! Not even the Peggy Sagers pants were this easy to fit. So far they legs fall really nicely in the back. If the Razor Sharps and the Everyday Pants fit like this, I may never have to buy another pant pattern ... dare I hope?

1 comment:

stacy said...

I loved these pants and can't wait to see them made up! I happy to hear how smooth it's going!