Tuesday, January 09, 2007

Late Night Creations

Last night I burned a bit of midnight oil trying to throw something to wear to last minute job interview. Diva MB and I were talking and we agreed that the HP Sportive Skirt Suit Jacket would be perfect for the occasion as the interview was for an admin job at a local fitness centre. She didn't think I was serious when I mused about whether it would be possible to put it together in two hours or less. If it was possible, I had a new jacket for the interview. If not, I would at least have
a muslin done for when I am ready to cut the stretch velvet assigned to it from the stash. Win win, right?

The pattern has the same basic design as the HP Cherry Blossom coat currently co-habiting the workshop. Two piece raglan sleeves cut on the bias give the sleeves and the shoulder a very nice line. They curve so nicely over my sloped shoulders and flare out at the wrist. At least they would have, had I enough fabric in the chosen piece to do a full length sleeve! I was short fabric, so I shortened the sleeves to elbow length. I omitted the lining as speed was the goal here, and this was intended to be a tres casual jacket anyway. I like the shorter length sleeve. It gives a bit of a vintage feel to the jacket and also allows me to wear this jacket in the warmer weather as well. I will use the full length sleeve on the velvet as I don't usually wear black stretch velvet in warmer weather! I did not use the hoodie version of this jacket as I am not a hood person unless it is outerwear. Living in a climate where you usually have to wear a parka with a hood, having another hood underneath is not comfortable to me.

As this pattern is in the older sizing system, you should know that I do NOT sew the much complained about Slinky size range. I am very definitely a Glamour Girl. The princess seaming is very generously cut in the side pieces, making a flattering front for somebody with the shape to fit them! I cut out a 16, larger than my usual 14 as I wanted to be able to take in seams rather than have to add. As this was a (hopefully) fast muslin, I wanted to see if I could get away without my usual FBA. What are the chances, considering I usually have to add 2-3" across the front for the Girls? I held my breath and cut the 16 in the pattern. I pinned it to Mindy and it appeared like it would work even though I did not use a stretch fabric. So, I took another deep breath (and a huge sip of caffeine) and cut the fabric.

The fit was divine! It did not need any alterations at all. It has enough ease that I could easily wear a sweater underneath (assuming I had LS), so I could probably use 1" s.a. to make a closer fit next time, especially since I am going to use a stretch velvet. This makes me sad that HP discontinued the older range of sizes, but considering the large number of problems with the Slinky range, I can see why they did it. I wonder if the GG is the basis from which they graded to the Slinky and Curvy ranges?

I used the serger for this entire project, except for the facings and applying the collar and zipper. I used a Riri zipper that I bought from Londa's. Originally intended for a denim jacket, the zipper has multi-coloured teeth. This zipper really makes the jacket, I think. The colours really pop against the green in a way that I don't think they would have against the denim. Diva Ann once mentionned that the choice of a closure can drastically affect the finished garment. I have to agree with this. This zipper really jazzes this green jacket up.

I am most definitely sewing this again after the Cherry Blossom coat is done later tonight. I see this in the stretch velvet and even in a wool or denim with some piping on the raglan seaming. This pattern has replaced the McCall's pattern languishing in the stash in a similar style but for the sleeves. After the velvet is done, I see making a pair of pants to go with them. I have some nice red gabardine that I may finally get the courage up to sew into pants. Then I just need the guts to wear red pants! Being the product of a conservative mother, the thought of red pants has me doing a bit of an irrational twitch ... but that is another post altogether!


Mary Beth said...

This is great! I agree the zipper really pops with the green. And fitting right out of the envelope? Yay! I believe that HP used the GG 16 as the basic from which they graded. Could be wrong though, ya know?

Els said...

Great jacket and the zipper add a fashionable touch to it. Hooray for the fitting without doing any alteration.
Enjoy your new sporty jacket and did you get the job?

Tany said...

Beautiful jacket!! The zipper is divine!