Many Happy Returns

I have a love hate relationship with blogging.  Before I Went back to work full time, I sewed A LOT for my kids and did casual wear for me and the Pilot.  Blogging allowed me to do detailed reviews of the projects in a forum that I could link back to in a couple of sewing sites I frequented.  As I got busier with volunteering and working part time, I found I wanted more to sew and less to write.  I wanted to maximize my time available to me but mainly I realized that I was writing more for me and not for anybody else.  Therefore my notes to self can be written in a book on PAPER with a pen if needed. It is not like I am famous, or have clients that follow me religiously, so I stopped blogging.  As I changed to full time work and even more full time volunteering, I discovered that I really had no desire to sit and write about my sewing.  I stopped writing reviews and just plodded along when I was able to sew.  To get that community feel I used to have online, I joined a few select FB groups.  For quick one offs of posting a project or a question, that served me fine.

What has not changed is that I am still not famous and don't have a huge following.  Not sure I want one, to be honest.  I have a few select friends and followers that I know will read and may or may not comment.  Maybe more will show up (especially if I link to said FB groups).  Who knows?  What I do know is that I am no longer volunteering.  It was becoming to stressful as I could never figure out how to stay on the sidelines and not go all in.  So, this year, I am out.  Of it all.  My nights for me and the occasional work session when required.  I. Can. Sew!!!  I can attack my stash of fabrics that I have acquired thanks to my dear friend's store (Darrell Thomas Textiles).  I am determined to make myself that work wardrobe that I have been dreaming and chatting about for years.

While I do have that nice wool boucle jacket still on the table, most of the hand work on the bodice has been completed.  Now it is stalled at the facings.  I have to be in a good place to do collars, cuffs, closures and waistbands or things go wrong fast.  So I am plodding on that one, but have started a faster one - the HP Fast & Furious Four Seasons Kimono Jacket to get me into the swing of things.

I started with this for a couple of reasons.  We are into late summer here in the Capital, which means any weather goes, but it usually muggy.  I am in a new building at work with a much more reliable HVAC system and sit in front of a window.  I figured this could be perfect for coolish mornings and AC in the office.  I also wanted to use up some lovely linen I bought from Darrell.  I think this was through one of his charity sales, cannot remember.  It also coords nicely with the print I recently used for two other recent projects (a top and a dress) as well as other extant wardrobe pieces.  Three Pieces.  Cannot get much faster than that.

This is where the blog comes into play - I am not sure if I like the pattern ON ME or not.  So, rather than focus on the FB groups where there are HUNDREDS of viewers who will gladly opine, I am going to focus my thoughts here and then see what/who pops up to give added value to my projects.  Blogging is more of a conversation than FB can be.  Especially for sewers.  Will this turn back into a full recital of everything I do and each detailed step I take?  No.  There are others far more skilled than I taking up your blog time.  I want to chat about the projects that mean something to me at the time of construction and get some feedback/encouragement when needed.

It goes together quite easily and I like the shaping the vertical darts give the pattern.  The facing being top stitched down gives a sporting look and could be switched up by doing an external facing with piping easily.  Lots of play room.  I tossed this together very easily, forgoing the bound seamlines and serging instead as this was intended to be a semi casual topper.  What is not to like?  I received lots of "Likes" on FB when I posted the pics today - both on me and on Mindy (my dressform) and received nice comments.  The thing is, I am not sure about the style on my frame.  I am not sure if it because I added some extra to the sides just in case (I am fluctuating on my weight distribution again, going the right way this time) or if it was the fabric or the sleeve cut.  This is where I think my blog will help.

I wore the jacket to work and discovered two things that I need to do for the next version.  Sucker that I am, I am planning another one in a firmer fabric, with mods added and some held in reserve in case I still feel iffy about it on me.  First of all - for those who have a curvy shape, ADD BELT LOOPS.  Or stitch the belt to the s.s..  Otherwise it rides up or feels too lose.  Having a loose belt leads to the front opening, which I don't like under a belt.  So, I am adding buttons.  Probably only three (if I can find the match in the button box to that perfect button that jumped at me this morning at 7 am).

Here are the two shots I posted.  The green is not as light as pastel as shown here.  Blame poor lighting in the workshop.  It is the shape that I am unsure of.  I think this style does not do me any favours, although I seriously think fabric had something to do with it?

What do you think?

Mindy wearing the jacket.

Here is a "Seflie" of the jacket.  Again, sorry for the lighting.

Banana Peels and Patterns

The Banana Story
Two summers ago I made a quick LBD for the funeral of my MIL.  I used Vogue 1100 and used a beautiful Armani wool from my dear friend, Darrell (Darrell Thomas Textiles.).  The dress went together extremley easy, with the standard FBA and some extra at the SS for a fuller skirt.  Later that year, while looking for a dress for Christmas I fell in love with a dress at Banana Republic.  I felt I could easily knock it off.  It had a slight Aline skirt with a banded waist in a wool look fabric and a satin bodice that had a twist located on the bias not the horizontal line.

I duly traced my trust Vogue 1100 and then hacked and slashed until I achieved the look I wanted.   Bodice Muslin #1 was OK, but needed work.  Bodice Muslin #2 worked better as I used a poly fabric that was slightly heavier than the charmeuse I had planned for.  I still did not like the results.  Too lightweight without going through the hassles of interfacing or interlining.  This Banana dress was starting to wear on my nerves. Enough slipping on the banana peel.  I gave up on the knock off bodice style and went back to the original pattern design and used the charmeuse.  The pattern recommended the fabric, so I felt confident it would work out.  I morphed on a sleeve from a pattern I like and have used before and then cut and basted away.  This is where I think the spirit of the Banana was haunting me.  I did not like the pleating in the silk, it did not seem to lie right, so I converted to soft gathers.  I kept in the bust dart and then added the skirt and waist band (made from a coord slubbed silk remnant from one of Darrell's Cat Rescue sales).  Put the dress on the form and almost cried.  It was that awful.

Overnight it sat and then I woke up, inspired by a new show on TLC (Something Borrowed Something New).  The premise is that a bride has to choose between a new RTW gown or a reworked and redesigned version of her mother's gown.  While watching rugby with the Pilot, I sat and ripped seams.  I peeled that Banana apart and started over.

The Aline skirt is now cut into the HP Moneypenny Trumpet Skirt. Knowing and accepting that I have added to my waistline and hips, I duly added to the seamlines.  This afternoon I will finish the edges, baste front and for fit and then draft a waist facing (will try to use the Banana Band).  Once I add the lining, voila - new skirt!

The bodice is a right off.  Using a silk charmeuse for a top did not work, IMO.  The fabric is too soft and looked way to pouffy on my body.  The tailored look of the Armani is what I wanted.  And the silk was not going to give me that.  An expensive lesson to learn as there is not enough in the leftovers to toss together anything except maybe a scarf..

Patterns
When I was working on this project, seeing it sink deeper into oblivion, my confidence in my skills and in my desire to continue plummeted.  I looked back over the past few years of sewing and realized that I have been progressing further into laziness.  As I revelled in the fact that there are patterns out there are that are designed on a sloper that is almost me, I stopped adjusting for me.

As I pulled out one of my Palmer Pletsch books, a slip of paper fell out.  It was from my first fit seminar, back almost 20 years ago in Halifax, when Patti introduced me to FBA's, broad and high round backs and forward shoulders.  All adjustment I needed and that she diagrammed out for me on a bodice sloper picture.  I cannot remember the last time that I performed any of those back adjustments.  Good enough had become my philosophy, but deep down I knew good enough was not sufficient to cut into the wools and silk suitings in the stash, let alone the Chanel sitting there.  working with the silk remnants made me want to work with the aging stash.  It is calling to me.  Remembering the weeks of fitting and adjusting it took to perfect the dupioni cocktail dress, the fun I had in the process.  I want that feeling back.

This all started because I needed clothes for a new job and had little time to sew what I wanted.  So I accepted RTW and good enough.  Not anymore.  I am worth more than good enough.  If I can't give 100% effort to myself, then who should I be giving it to?

I am going downstairs to ponder patterns for a new top to go with the skirt.  The one I was thinking of using I am going to toss.  It was a compromise that I am no longer willing to make.  Then I am going to work to the level of my ability and push beyond.  Because I. Am. Worth. It.

Happy Returns

Thanks for hanging in there over the past week of silence!  We got back into town two nights ago and are still catching up on sleep lost due to time zone shift and then there is the catch up at work after a week's unexpected absence.

First off, I DID manage to exercise while away. I took my TRX for self inflicted torture and set it up in the walk out under the BIL's back deck.  Nice and cool in the shade and those floor joists were definitely sturdy enough!  Top that off with an hour long brisk hike in the hills with the Pilot in tow and  making really good choices for food, I think I did great considering I had almost no control over where we ate and when!  What did you do over the past week?

The dress was finished onsite.  I had to finish hand stitching the hem and the lining to the zipper once I arrifved, but really that only took about 30 minutes to do while listening to all the chater going on around us.  I used Vogue 1100 and some wonderful stretch wool crepe from Darrell.  Lots of complements on the dress.  It was classy with a modern twist with the neckline treatment.  The fabric made all the difference in this one.  The wool didn't wrinkle, it was a perfect weight and the lycra made motion easier.  Unlike some reviewers, I didn't have any armhole issues, but that could be due to the FBA I always do changing the curveof the armhole.  I also adjusted the vertical pleats, lengthening them as well as widening them for a closer fit and shortened the V opening.  A funeral is not the place to flash the twins, especially when one is doing a reading at the Mass!

Having made this in wool, I do not think I would make it in charmeuse (which is the original reason for buying the pattern).  I think the fabric would be too light for the fit of the pattern and I don't think it would move as well on me, anyway.  It has been done by another reviewer who had great success, but for me, this is now my LBD.  Ellen would be proud of the handwork and that I honoured her by sewing the dress.

I have some of the wool left as I had bought enough to do a princess seamed dress.  Now I have to decide if I want to do a skirt or if I have enough to do a jacket to go with the LBD.  I don't think I have enough for a jacket, (and that would be too much black I think) but maybe I can make a snazzy vest/waistcoat?  Hmm .... time to go browsing for pattern ideas!

Daily Dose of Diva - Part 3

Just a short post today ...it was PJ bottoms day.  She decided to do shorts for summer out of another batik from MaryBeth.  She loves how soft it is!  The top will come later on, I think.  Tomorrow is her last day at camp, but not the last day sewing.  This was a great opportunity for her.  If she wants, I may sign her up for some of the weekend classes in the winter if Darrell runs any follow ups (like maybe a jeans course to go with all that great denim you have in stock???  What do you think about that idea, Darrell!  Great for the teens and tweens!).

It was TRX torture day.  It is getting easier each week.  The muscle memory is coming back.  I am able to do more for longer now on some of the harder moves.  I would be better if I did more at home with my own TRX, though.

The dress is ready to put together.  The lining is done as is the dress.  Tomorrow I have to finish.  I have run out of time.  I may leave the neckband off for expediency at this point.  Will see how things progress tomorrow.  I have only a half day of work, so I will be able to do more when I get home.  I also have to add a modesty panel to a tunic that was given to the Diva by a friend.  She can't wear it as is at this point.

I know that I just stated posting again, but I am giving fair warning that I may be intermittant over the next week.  We are going out of town as of Saturday for at least a week. I am unsure of what access I will have.

Stay sewing and start exercising ... See you soon.

Dose of Diva ... Part 2

First of all, a correction.  Last post I said I was pre-treating a wool gab. I mis-spoke.  It is a dress weight stretch wool crepe.  It is in the dryer now as my bed was too comfy this morning to get up early enough to toss it in.  I should be able to get at it to cut tonight as it is still early.

Now for the Daily Dose of Diva Part 2!

Diva finished her lined tote bag today.  There are two more pockets inside.  It looks great!  MB, you would approve of the use of the batik and LOVE the slightly heavier cotton she lined it with!  Today's project was a simple bib apron with a bound edge.  Nothing unusual except hat it was an exercise in patience and careful pinning and top stitching as she bound the entire edge and extended the edge into the ties and the neckband.  She did really well for all that!  Nice straight stitching and a cute little apron.  More of the batik gone, MB!  Tomorrow she is starting her PJ's in another cotton batik!  You, MB are a partner in her camp happiness this week.  Which is just what we need at this point.  Some good memories to look back on.  She is unsure if she wants to have pics taken or not, so I leave it to her.

Exercise - the bike ride was cancelled due to thunderstorms and the pressing need to get the dress done.  There is a function in the near future that I need it for, so I have some time issues to meet.  Tomorrow is TRX Thursday.  I will head to the Rec Centre a bit early and hit the treadmill for a bit prior to the class.  That will help me make up for today.
Friday's lunch will be a challenge menu wise.  We always bring in lunch on Friday's.  How to maintain the tradition without always going for salad?  The menu is Lebanese/Mediterranean, so I think I will try a tabouleh salad or something new like that.  I know I will like the shawarma and other meats, but I want to be a bit adventurous and healthy at the same time.

Short post tonight, life is progressing fast, so I need to get back at it!

Dose of Diva ... Part 1

First of all, exercise update:  Last week I accomplished my 3 one hour workouts.  Tuesday's was a brisk one hour walk with the Pilot.  Wednesday was a one hour bike ride of the walking route (done twice) with the Diva. Thursday was TRX torture Day.  Today, the Pilot and I walked a new route for another hour.  Tomorrow the Diva has already reminded me of the bike ride.  Then on to TRX again.  What have you done this week?

Now to the main topic - the daily dose of Draping Diva!  Welcome to the first in a 4 part series starring the Draping Diva herself!

Here is a photo of the Diva herself modelling the jean jacket she made last fall. She practiced slow sewing to the point of it almost becomming a UFO! By the time she finished it, the "jacket" had shortened into a crop style w/ 3/4 length sleeves! She is doing her best Charlie's Angel pose with one of the Pilot's toys.

Today she attended the first day of a Sewing Camp at store owned by my dear friend Darrell Thomas. 
Background - Since Darrell left Bank Street and moved to Little Italy, he has gained more space and added a dedicated classroom.  To that end, he decided to run a sewing camp over 4 days.  4 days of learning to sew.  What is not to love for a Junior Draping Diva?  Especially since she was gifted with some BEAUTIFUL batiks from my other dear friend MaryBeth when we met up in Toronto last month.  She now has a sewing machine of her own (My mother's old Singer), a small stash and now she has a sewing box with tools!  I decided that we will start building her "Hope Chest" with the sewing tools first! So, on the weekend we went to Darrell's and bought her the essentials so that we no longer have to share.

DAY 1 - She is the youngest in the camp by about 4 years.  The age ranges from her all the way up to the lone male university student.  The experience varies from her minimal experience to others that have none to some with more.  4 hours of sewing instruction.  What is not to love?

First project is a lined tote bag.  She had to measure, mark then cut and stitch.  She is so excited as she assembled the two side panels, two lined pockets, and the straps in class.  She came home and then finished the top stitching ont he straps even though it wasn't homework.  She was so excited that the machines at Darrell's are the same as Mine that she promptly asked if she can "practice" on my machine ... yup.  I sense a trend towards time sharing here ... Of course, this could be justification for a new machine for me :)  (I would be perfectly OK with delegating the Singer to buttonhole duty now that I have the proper attachments ... but I digress.  Back to Diva).  She is setting her alarm to get up in the summer.  To sew.  HOW COOL IS THAT??????

Tomorrow they finish the bag and then start building an apron that has bias binding (purchased for this time) then progress on to PJs on Thursday (really cool kimono style top to this Burda Kids pattern).

Projects attempted since last post: The Little Black Dress project
1. Neue Mode 22774 (no link found at this point, I may post pic, I may not see previous post) a princess sheath dress with a sweetheart neckline with a shaped front yoke inset
Status - on hold; it needs more fitting than I have time for.  All those body changes have made my TNT adjustments to be Terrible and Terrifying!  So, it is shelved for now until I have more time to get real finicky with it.
2. Vogue 1100 (the dress)
Status - in progress.  The muslin came out OK, the lining is cut and and basic fitting is complete. It is tweak time.  I need to add the vertical darts in (adding extra in the midriff area to shape the extra from the upper and lower adjustments).  Tomorrow is the final work on the lining.  Tomorrow before work I am preshrinking using the method from the blog Off the Cuff and then tomorrow night I will finish the lining and be (hopefully) able to cut the wool gab.

Tonight I took the night off as I was sewing late last night and the walk was later than planned.  Tomorrow I will get more done.

See you all tomorrow!  Remember ... get out and DO something so that you can SEW something!  Get the family involved ... who wouldn't love a guaranteed hour long walk with the Spouse/Partner twice a week?  I know, I have the luxury of built in childcare now that Rugby Boy is old enough, but you can get creative.  Swap walk times with a neighbour or fellow parent.  Get a rotating playgroup going where two or three sets of kids play while one of you goes for a run/walk.  Trade off works!

The Tide Needs to Turn

I am back from oblivion again. I know I promised pics of projects past. I have come to terms with the fact that sewing was losing it's fun factor. Taking photos at each important step for a review that I was making myself write and then post was taking too much of my time. So, those pics are not happening any time soon. I will discuss patterns as I would chat with you across my table as we shared either a glass or a cup (the contents of which will depend highly upon whether or not I like the project we are discussing)!

I am too busy to do more. Since December last, I switched to a full time job but did not slow down on my other commitments. My sewing time is limited and precious to me. I want to maximize machine time when I can.

The biggest competition for my time right now is me. I have, over the past year put back on the inches and pounds I had lost. I let work and family become an excuse to not take care of me. The result is that the Doc has told me to drop 20-30 pounds. So, that means one hour of exercise a minimim of four times a week. So, the Pilot's workout needs don't mqtch mine so we need to do them mostly apart. Last night was a one hour brisk walk. Next time we take the uphill route as our first one was too easy. Tonight Diva and I did the same route TWICE on our bikes. She wants to do it each week. Tomorrow night I take a TRX class at a city gym. Google that if you want a new and challenging work out!! My goal is to exercise in the week ans then I can sew on the weekends.

The tide has started to turn. I am charting a new course. Does anybody want to join me? I am going to try to do short posts each night with my workouts ...
Let me know if you are going to join my journey. We can swim together.

Draping Diva!

That is her new name!  Monkey Girl is now the Draping Diva.  Three times since the last post I have gone down into the Sewing Room and found a length of fabric (usually my bamboo) wrapped, pleated and pinned in place on Mindy.  Don't know when she does it, although I suspect it is done when I think she is watching TV or playing on the family Wii.  Sometimes there is a note pinned to Mindy asking if she can use the fabric for her design (THAT WAS FOR THE OFF LIMITS BAMBOO!) or she then will join me and ask if the design is something she can wear.  Now seeing as she is draping on a form that is my size and bust and that she has not yet shown her potential for needing fitting, it is hard to tell.  But she loves to play with the fabrics, so I let her do so.  I have warned her off certain fabrics as they do not survive random pinning and being left to hang on Mindy, especially when some of it inevitably ends up being on the bias!  I need to thank Darrell for this new talent of hers.  you see, he has numerous forms throughout his shop with fabric artistically draped to showcase the fabrics to their best potential.  She fell in love with the idea when we last visited.  Makes me want to hunt down a cheap form for her to play with until she grows into mine.  Christmas is coming ...

So design divas!  I need your help and I need it fast! I have an important meeting next week with an VP of a Bank.  I need something appropriate to wear ... I want to wear a dress if I can pull it off in the next week (so the Claire Schaeffer mock wrap couture pattern is out due to time).  I have some suiting intended for a shirtdress, but again, time is a factor.  So, it will have to be either a sheath or an empire style, unless I do a surplice knit.  I have this fabric from Darrell that I bought with the intention of using it for one of the HP Three Graces tops (the cowl was the preferred), but now I am thinking of it as a dress.  Simple in doing, but it is the fabric that worries me.

It is an bias printed argyle pattern in grey, blue and black with silver thread shot through. The cowl drapes nicely according to Draping diva and Mindya doesn't look too bad in it full length, the issue is whether I will.  I want to push my envelope a bit beyond the obvious argyle top or twin set, but is a dress really the way to go?  My figure is not the most willowy and I am now in my 40's, so age appropriate is important.  I do so want to leave a good impression ...

Idea #2 was to take the top with the cross over front (the Grecian one) and use black for the cross overs and the argyle for the cowl center piece, but that would take soem creative drafting of the pattern pieces to balance the bottom off.  This really appeals to me as it will be most unique but still not be too much argyle as it would only be on the cowl and the center front.  What fabric I would use on the back is open for debate: black or full argyle?  What say you?

Monkey Girl Jacket Update

This is a quick update on the progress of the current projects on the table.  The table currently has two jackets on the go, one is mine, the other belongs to Monkey Girl.  I have set up my Mom's old machine (now Moneky Girl's) on the table back to back with mine.  That way we can work at the same time on our jackets.  We are both using hte same thread colours right now, so that makes it easier for me to help her out.

As I believe in learning by doing, she is doing the majority of the work on her own.  She cut  and prepped the pattern while I cut the fabric (that is due to her height not being quite up to reaching across the table and me not wanting her touching the Kais!).  She pins the pieces together as she goes through the pattern, learning about how the pieces match up.  She then stitches them together (reminding herself to backstitch) and tried her best to keep the seam allowance as close to 5/8" as she can (there is a masking tape line on the machine for her to follow).  She now knows how to properly press the seams flat using my iron.  Yes, Darrell, she even uses the clapper!  The top stitching, button holes and collar I am doing for her but I think I will let her do the sleeve insertino as it is on the flat this time around.  She may even do the cuffs as well.  So far the bodice and the back is complete and stitched at the shoulders.  I have to do the topstitching there and then we are off to assemble the sleeves.  We have the collar and cuffs put together but not attached yet.  She has stitched, trimmed, pressed and turned and then pressed again.

She wants a navy blue topstich for a real subtle contrast to the black.  At least it would have been subtle had I not let her loose on Darrell's button wall last weekend!  My Monkey took one look at the variety and went for BLING!  Not just any bling, mind you, oh no, my darling diva went directly to the designer buttons!  Of course, I have to admit, Darrell did have a lot to do with it!  It was great fun as she tried the various buttons styles on her Wal Mart remnant fabric.  She loved the Fendi buttons and almost went for major crystals and rhinstone flowers until we had to reign her in with a reminder that this will still be worn on the playground.  Designer bling is too good for the playground.  That was a close call but very fun to watch!

The next thing she did was to head directly for Darrell's silk samples.  She fell in love with those from the first time in his shop.  After fondling those for a bit, she went over to the display of garment Darrell has on sale.  He chooses fabrics from his supply and then sews a number of his own designs as inspiration for his customer base.  This way we can visualize what a garment will look like in a certain fabric.  She fell in love with a couple of tops and proceeded to talk ME into buying one for her.  The drama that ensued as she tried the various sizes on was quite hilarious!  Darrell and I agree, there are some serious DIVA tendencies emerging in her personality!  Will she be the next generation Sewing Diva?  We will have to wait and see if she can bring her skill level up to THE Sewing Divas ... until then, I am not quite sure what to call her ... Monkey Girl is still there but there are occasional flashes of something bigger that I cannot quite identify.

One unforseen effect of teaching her how to sew, is that I have to reduce the directions to the most basic points.  In teaching her how to do a project like this one, there are few shortcuts.  Each step needs to be read , discussed and understood before we go on.  She sees how things are put together step by step.  This has slowed my sewing down somewhat, but I think that is a good thing for me.  I am now looking at the details again as I stop my sewing to help her with her next step.  I find myself explaining things to her.  It has brought me back to why I started to sew in the first place.  I like the construction of the garments.  I love taking flat fabric and turning into a 3Dimensional object.  I love that she sees what I see.  The potential in every piece of cloth ... expecially the silks, right Darrell?

changes ...

School is now in session for the kids.  Dino boy had minor stomach cramps last night; not sure if it was nerves, excitement or both.  I think it was the latter. You see, he started Jr High today.  Grade 7.  Wow.  Not only is he only one inch shorter than I am (YIKES HE IS ONLY 12), he is now at a combined jr/sr high.  He gets up with his father and goes out the door at almost the same time.  He will be home before anybody else in the afternoons.  He is growing up (literally!).  He is maturing in so many ways but still believes in embracing his inner child.  He still wants a toy for Christmas, even if it is a small one.  Just because it is Christmas and that needs a toy.  I think that this change needs a new name.  Dino Boy who used to grab his little dino toys and leave them in my bathtub or shower is no more.  In his place?  RUGBY GUY.  This is more appropriate now.  His new self confidence and height has earned him the new moniker, I think.

Monkey Girl is about to head off to school as well.  This is her first year without Rugby Guy at the same school.  She will be going alone now.  What that means is that I won't let her leave quite so early as there is no early supervision at the school without big brother along.  She is turning into a bit of a girlie girl, with her talk of clothes, earrings and her new summer obsession - nail polish. I like seeing these glimpses young woman she has the potential of becomming.  Monkey Girl will need to change soon, too, I think.  But not yet.  I am not quite ready for that.  Let me have my little girl for a little bit longer ... even if she is as proportionally as tall as her brother!

Labour Day Project

So, what are you doing this Labour Day?  As was my practice years ago, I spent it sewing.  Saturday I took off and went shopping with Monkey Girl.  We spend a lot of time discussing body image and fashion vs trends as we shop.  We try on everything just for the object lessons.  We try not to laugh too loudly at what we affectionately label "CALL CLINTON moments" after her favorite show "What Not To Wear".  I like these times together.  She is growing up so fast and so tall that I need to have these discussions more often as she is soon to be out of the little girl sizes ( a feat she reached in her shoe size already!).

I think I may have mentionned in one of my posts last year that I have my mother's original SINGER machine now.  We gave it to Monkey GIRL FOR Christmas last year with the promise that I would teach her to sew.  The majority of what she wants to sew are knit projects, which that machine will not handle well.  So, we are trying something different instead. She is making a jean style jacket.  We are doing it in tandem, meaning that we have two machines on the same table with both of us working on jacket patterns.  I am finishing a UFO (another HP project - the HP Sportive Skirt Suit Jacket).  Hers is KS 3136.  We are using a black peachskin fabric from Wal Mart for her first project. This is a great project for us to do together.  It has many smaller straight seams which will allow her to get used to the machine as well as pinning, pressing and stitching.  I have marked out the 5/8" seamline with masking tape on the machine bed, and am marking the seamline on the fabric for her as well. She cut and prepped the pattern on her own, and I cut the fabric and interfacing as required.  She sews the seams, we press together and then I top stitch for her.  We are lucky that we are both sewing the same colour fabric right now!

It is going really well!  Her first seam had to be ripstitched, as she wanted to try to stitch it without a line to follow.  She was a bit upset until I told her the story of my first Home Ec project do-over (the night before it was due in!).  She laughed and started to rip as she kept giggling!  We have the back assembled and have the fronts half done.  We are at the stage of putting the chest pockets on.  We will see how far we get tonight.  She won't be wearing it to school this week, anyway. I promised her a trip to the Button Wall of Fame at Darrell's so that she can choose the buttons.  Yup, the buttons will cost more than the jacket, but seeing the pride will be worth it!  It is a neat feeling, seeing her across the table working on a project at the same time.  Who says that sewing has to be solitary?

On my end, I have the body of the lining assembled, leaving the facings only to be attached.  I am working on assembling the body of the jacket as well.  I am using a black pinwhaled bamboo corduroy with an ambiance lining in a navy blue.  The skirt was completed before the sewing drought started and was the last actual project completed before the Big Sulk started.  I made this up in a cheap knit 3 years ago for an interview for the job I now have.  Now, I am getting around to making the actual as the cheapness of the muslin is now showing.  I took the rainbow zipper off the muslin and am using that in the jacket.  I was originally going to use a rhinestone zip but think I may use that in another project instead.

So, this Labour Day, I engaged in a Labour of Love.  I have started my 9 year old on a journey of sewing for herself.  The feeling I get in sharing my space with her is so deep that I cannot find the words.  I remember sitting at my mother's knee playing in the button box and wanting to sit on her lap and sew.  I can't remember ever doing that, but I always wanted to.  I played in her sewing room all the time when she worked on the various projects.  Now Monkey Girl gets to work with me.  As a new sewer emerges in the family, I am rediscovering the basics through the teaching process.  I am rediscovering the love of the build and the satisfaction of the final product.  May you all be so lucky as to be able to pass on your skills and love to a new generation ... I now know that my grandmother's thimble will be well loved and used by another young girl as she begins her wardrobe build!

Challenge Complete!

The dress is done and I even have photos ready to post!

The project was the HP Plain & Simple T SHIRT DRESS (See here for pattern link) (not to be confused with the P&S Shirt Dress of a previous pattern release!). I chose it as it was an easy style to make and wear for Sunday Mass or for those days when I just don't want to wear pants.  This should have been an easy project as it is basically a longer version of a Polo shirt with a hidden button placket with the addition of a self tie belt.  Designed for good quality knits, it ws perfect for a stash project as I have a good supply on hand.

HP designs are not for the beginner.  Trudy has said that from the day she launched her line.  She assumes a certain amount of knowledge in her sewer.  I am not a beginner.  I would say that at my peak two years ago, I was close to being advanced, and had I not stopped sewing, I would have gotten there (and will get there)with the completion of that tailored blazer I started with Darrell.  Rebooting a lapsed sewing brain with a hidden placket on a pattern that has minimal instructions and drawings was probably not my best choice.  In the spirit of full disclosure, I will admit that the hidden placekt part of the patten really didn't register until I was too forgone in the cutting to stop.  It was at that point that I started the book searches and the internet searches to try to find help.  The first incarnation of the placket had me following the directions, but I must have missed something.  The placket did not lie flat.  It could have been something as simple as me using a knit that was a bit too bulky when layered three times.  Maybe I missed a step somewhere.  After all, I have made so many of these tops, that I confess I really didn't give that in depth of a look at the instructions.... ahem.  yup.  got cured of that real quick on this project!

So, I recut the bodice out of the remaining fabric and started over.  I thought that I could modify David P Coffin's placket design to include a hiddne placket and use that method instead.  Works in theory and in the paper mock up.  Once put into practice, however, there was just too much fabric at the bottom of the placket.  I just didn't like it.  So, I tossed the whole thing in the fabric scrap bin and went to bed.  I do my best redesign work as I am in bed at night while the Pilot is snoring.

Inspiration struck two nights later. I went downstairs and grabbed the pieces and scraps and cut out the offending placket.  I cut it on the line where a shoulder princess seam would lie (or thereabouts) and took it down below the placket bottom.  I then took some black fabric and pinned it in as a cowl neck inset.  I liked it a lot!  Then I thought the black migh tbe a bit too dark for late summer early fall, so I grabbed some scraps of the original fabric and played.  I took the piece I cut out and laid it in half on it's CF.  Then I traced the bottom of it and then rotated the piece to the left to allow for the cowl neck.  There is my new pattern piece.  I cut it out and then added it in.  Love it!  It does not have as much cowl as the original drape and the inset is also a bit wider, but I am happy with it all the same.  Rather than tying the belt, I found a belt buckle that matches colour wise and simply thread it through.  I may eventually sew the buckle on and shorten it.  For now, I like the way it lies flat on a body that is not so flat anymore.  I did have to take the dress in a bit on the side seams, but that is because I added some in the cutting phase "just in case".  The only thing I haven't improved on yet, but plan on doing, is to shape the CB seam below the yoke.  It is straight.  I am not.  It needs some shaping to rid me of the extra fabric at the back.

So, here it is.  The inset could have been a tad bit wider to allow for the twins as I see some stretching there, but that can be eliminated by wearing a different bra as well.  There is too much fluff at the hips (both on me and the dress) so I think any future renditions will need a bit more flare at that point to make it more flattering.  Will I sew this again?  Maybe.  I may try a different pattern version as I have one in an older WOF mag that I haven't tried.  I am trying to use as many new patterns in the stash as I can for now.  I may just use one of my TNT polo patterns instead and add a more A Line skirt to it. Will have to wait and see!

Sorry for the photo layout, I am still getting used to the laptop buttons and the lack of a mouse.  Give me time ....  My collarless version of the P&S T Shirt Dress:

When Life Gives you Lemons ...

I am well on my way with my last challenge assignment.  The task was to make a simple dress.  Despite having meetings and back to school shopping and starting Monkey Girl on her project, I have managed to get a dress cut out.  This is where the lemons come in.

As I have a stash of Sophia knits, I wanted to get through those for easy fall sewing projects.  That was why they were bought after all (almost 2 years ago, sigh!).  I chose a simple T shirt type dress from Hot Patterns.  Yes, I LOVE Trudy's designs.  Not all of them are to my personal taste, but she manages to get current trends as well as the classics into her line.  The other main reason is that her sloper is NOT Twiggy or a look alike.  Her slopers are built on her.  She has a shape that is full figured, has hips and a real life bustline!  So, there is not much fitting in her lines for somebody like me.  So, when I want an easy project I usually pick one ofher patterns.

The pattern is a simple polo style shirt dress with a rugby style hidden button front placket.  Easy peasy, right?  Warning: here be lemons... As Trudy assumes a level of sewing knowledge and experience, her instructions are very basic.  Usually I do not have a problem with this as I have enough time behind my machine that I can figure most things out or research them online if need be.  That being said, I have never done a hidden button placket on a center front application that wasn't a shirt.  So, a new skill, I thought.  I read the instructions briefly and didn't see anything that surprised me and visually I thought I had it made.  Then I cut it out and started to assemble.   This is where things started to go sour.  The pattern calls for you to cut the CF section BEFORE you apply the placket and then flip and stitch.  The placket is two pieces and it just didn't lie right.  (more details when the project is finished when I do the full review).  So, being short on patience and being long on fabric, I cut out a second front piece and then tried to fashion my own placket based on David P. Coffin's CF Placket design, but incorporatingt a hidden placket.  The mock up of the ploacket went great, but once it was sewn into the second bodice front, there was too much fabric for it to lie flat.  I had done something wrong again.  By this time, the CF had been cut to allow the placket insertion and I was out of fabric for a new front.

This is where two nights sleep and many a thought about how I REALLY wanted that dress and how I did NOT want to start completely over led to the lemonade.  The front bodice is a single piece.  I am using a solid colour.  Can I remove the aggravating CF opening portion and insert a coord colour piece to add a design element?  I searched the stash and found a basic black that obviusly will go with the basic dark blue of the dress.  Then I took some chalk and started to draw lines from the shoulder, extending down around the horrible part.  Then I took some black SEAMS GREAT and pinned it in place to get a feel for the lines.  Liking what I saw, I grabbes the black and started to pin a length down.  The way it was lying, it had a CF cowl shape to it.  I kind of like it.  I added the self belt to the dress form and am now thinking overnight about it.  I always wanted to try draping .... maybe this is an opportunity to ease myself in by draping the cowl!  So, I left it pinned for now and will think on it some more.  I also want to check out some of the prints I have in the stash.  This might be a great way to incorporate some shorter lengths of woven prints to give a "fooler" type look to it.  If I have enough, I may even add a faux cuff to the 3/4 length sleeve.

I know there are no pics, but I want to leavethis up to your imaginations!  I have taken some, but will leave them for the final pattern review.  There is only one review online that I have found, so I am going to post mine when the dress is complete.  That reviewer also had some problems with the placket, but she managed to pull it off.  So, just as a teaser, here is the pattern:  HP 1013 Plain and Simple Iconic Shirtdress and here is the link to that review:Heatherrique Review on Pattern Review.com.

Stay tuned ... I love a challenge and I do have the challenge deadline, plus one more evening meeting and Dino Boy still needs new jeans and sneakers for his first year in Junior High and we are going away for the long weekend.  ThinK I can pull it off AND get Monkey Girl's jean jacket cut out?  Not unless I live on caffeine and don't sleep!  Wait and see what happens this week!  any chance of an extension, Darrell???  :)

Photos!

So, the first shots are of the pre-challenge garments to show that I actually did sew something! The shots are not the best, but I can't find the tripod and the Pilot is already in bed for the night, so you have just me! SO, remember, the angle is wonky and the lighting not the best ...

First up is a redux of a DKNY shirt that I made into a knit top by leaving off the collar/band and the cuffs. I also shortened the sleeves. The pattern is an OOP Vogue DKNY 2742. It is a loose fitting knot front shirt. By using a smaller size and a knit I was able to use the Rayon knit in the stash quite nicely. I used a slightly lighter thread to have some visual interest in the hems.

Next up is the semi self drafted wrap dress.  I used a simple wrap style raglan sleeve top as a basis and then made the fronts a bit narrower.  The original pattern has the wrap stitched into the side seams.  The fabric is a pure poly silk weight knit bought years ago as part of a Fabricmart bundle.  As the neckline is a bit low, I threw together a quick tank from stashed Powerdry that happened to cllosely match the green in the print.  The side ties are temporary in brown bamboo.

Now, the homework assignment!  I wanted to make a bunch of nice knit tops that weren't T shirts when I bought a bunch of Sophia Knits from Ressy's coop a few years back.  It is lovely to sew with ... drapes beautifully, wears so soft and still holds it shape nicely.  Good thing I have more left!  I mentionned that I had ordered a number of new patterns from my fave indie pattern line, Hot Patterns.  I had been waiting for the right time, and August was it!  First off the block was a unique loop front view of the basic T.  The newer knot/loop combined with the lower necline and the French Dart on the side gives wodnerful shaping!  I made the top a little longer in the front to give that shirt shape to it.  Because I was shopping the stash, I did not have the match rib knit cuff called for.  I used a dark forest type green Sophia knit once again. Here is the link to the pattern: Hot Patterns 3 Graces T shirts.  Here is the top:

The lay of the neckline is not as smooth as I like in the shots, but that is due to me taking the photo and also to the height of the camera for the full body shot.  It really focuses on the lower body, so the perspective is off somewhat.  I will wear it to Darrell's and he can give his own opinion in person!  The unique loop treatment was a bit of a challenge to visualize as the pattern instructions are somewhat sparse (as is normal for HP; they assume a level of ability that allows for that).  My spatial sense did not allow me to picture it, but Trudy @ HP always thinks ahead.  She has done a number of You Tube videos showing construction and tips for her patterns.  Without that video, this could have been a UFO ... I must also add that the pinning of the loop and the darts was made much easier by pinning on the dress form.  Laying it on the flat table was a bit troublesome.

So, there you have it!  First installation of the actual sewing challenge is done!  Tomorrow Monkey girl is going to cut her pattern out (we are using a KS jean jacket) so that will be her first step in her project as well!  I am nervous and excited at the same time.  I am passing a skill on to my daughter that my mother and dear aunt passed on to me.  The challenge of doing it right makes me nervouse, the excitement comes from having something that we can share and that she will use for the rest of her life!  Watch out Darrell ... she may only be looking and fondling those samples now, but soon enough she will be buying it!  SEE YOU IN A WEEK, DARRELL!!!!

homework update

A quick update on my howmeork! I know I am a couple of days late but I was teaching all day Saturday and the weekend before I was at a company conference for 4 days. When you lose the weekends, you lose a lot of sewing time!

The good news is that I have started and finished a new top. I am going to take pics after the kids are in bed and I have the ability to do quick changes without fear of interuptions! I had ordered new patterns from Hot Patterns and they arrived just in time for this challenge.

Another new toy arrived today as well that will help with getting the posts online! I have been dond extra hours at work for all of August (almost full time hours!) so I rewarded myself with the purchase of a laptop! That means that I no longer have to wait until Dino Boy and Monkey Girl and now the Pilot have all had their turns at the computer. I now have my own! I have spent the evening setting it up with all my software and this is my first non-set up function! What a way to christen it! I can now have it in the sewing room for easy access to video tips and pattern reviews. No more stairs!

So, two tasks down and only one more to go! An sinple dress was the next assignment, I believe. I have two different styles of T shirt dresses, a kimono style wrap dress and then there are the woven patterns to choose from. I think that the stash of Sofia knits and bamboo needs to be dealt with. Since the nights are starting to cool off, would a stylish nightie work as well for the next assignment? I am thinking no. The dress will get done then Monkey girl is keen to start her own back to school sewing. We are going to do a quick jean jacket together on her grandmother's very forgiving old Singer. So, since school starts in 2 weeks, I will get going on those tomorrow night. Tonight is all about the camera!

One Year Later ...

I was reminded by a dear friend today that it has been over a year since I last sat and shared my projects with the world (so to speak). To me, it seems like so much longer. I wish I could say that I have been madly sewing away and that my wardrobe is overflowing with completed projects that are absolutely divine!

The reason? I wish I could say that I was just too busy but that is not the reason. The past has seen me burn midnight oil many a time as that was the only time avail to me to sew. The truth is that I just didn't want to do it. I had such great hopes for a classy working wardrobe and had invested in some excellent quality fabrics to accomplish that goal. I had the patterns and the storyboard ready to go. Then the work dress code changed, making everything irrelevant. I could not justify sewing up clothes that would not be worn. My logic was, if I sewed them up and kept the work outs going, then I woudl have to spend all that time altering so why not just wait until I needed them and fit them once.

As you may remember from my last post, I work at a women's gym as the Club Administrator. Up until this point last year, I was wearing trousers and nice shoes with a semi fitted yellow cotton blouse (OK, by the time I was done with it, it was tailored to fit me and was not too shabby all things considered!). I had images of pinstriped shirtdresses, tailored pants and jackets, maybe even a vest for winter warmth. Then the new policy came in. The polo shirts are made of a dry fit type fabric in a red with lots of piece work and angles and white accents. I am still supposed to wear dress pants with it and then finish it off with quality sneakers to give the "casual recreational professionsl image". Let me say right up front .... the prospect of wearing sneakers with a pair of trousers made of an Armani wool does not sit well with me! So, all those nice plans went out the window and all that fabric (Armani included) are in stasis. Yes, I have spent the past year basically sulking.

For all the sewing I have done, it took a lot of mental preparation for me to start such a collection of tailored, professional looking clothes. I started with a tailored blazer in a class at my friend, Darrell's. It hangs unfinished (yes, Darrell, it is not finished) in the shop. I initially stopped as the fit changed when I lost weight and then was bulking up in muscle across my back. That affected my sleeve and back fit and then, well, I gave up. Why bother when it would never be worn at work? More sulking ...

Don't despair, though, all is not lost! I started sewing again last month. I made myself a promise that for every UFO I finish, I get to sew something new. First off the table? I finished a knit version of a DKNY knotted top that I have made in the past. This time, instead of leaving the bottom of the bodice open and just overlapped, I changed the pattern somewhat to allow me to stich the CF seam up to the under bustline seam. I shortened the sleeve as it was originally a fall project and then left off the collar and neck band. This lightened the look a bit as well as allowed me to finish it more quickly. One down!

We had a heat wave that had me wishing for summer dresses, so I pulled out a poly knit in a Pucci style print and threw together a semi-self drafted wrap dress. I started with a wrap top that I had made quite a few years ago and then changhed the shape a bit and lengthened it into a dress. I don't yet have the button for the side, so as a temporary measure I have added a wrap belt in a coord colour due to not having enough scraps for a belt. I am not happy with the way the solid belt cuts my silhouette in half (this depsite the fact that I situated the belt as an empire level tie) so I will have to see about finding just the right button for the closure. This is where I discovered that the dress form needs adjusting ... it fit nice and decently on the form, but on me it was a little lower than I liked. So, out came the power dry stash and I threw together a fast tank to go underneath it. I was very lucky to have PD that matched the lighter colour in the print for the time being anyway ...

We had a plumber in to replace the faucet outside in the back of the house last week. When the plumber looked in the ceiling to shut off the water he discovered that the piped were swollen and looked like it had one time almost burst due to freezing. Considering we shut the water off each winter, it had to pre-date our purchase. The Pilot did the only thing he could do ... protect my machines as the pipe was directly over my sewing table!!!! "Move the tables and replace the pipe!" he says. ME? I would have have looked at the tables and said "let it burst, then I can get new machines LOL!" So, now the room is a mess again as we have to put it back together and do some heavy vaccuuming before I sew in there again.


I have to give a very big cyber hug to the dear friend who e-mailed me a sewing intervention today. Knowing I work on deadlines each day and that I thrive on external challenges, this is the gauntlet he threw down:

You have 7 days to make an update to your blog
You have 14 days to make yourself a simple skirt or top
You have 30 days to make yourself a dress.

Well, task one is almost complete. I will say it is done when I have taken and posted pics of the top and dress. As for the project two weeks form now, I saw a top at Mass this week that I am mulling over in my head ... I think I would love to knock it off. It had saddle shoulder lines to it, but the sleeve was more like a very heavily ruched shaped band that went over the shoulder. It was not a full sleeve, but had shaping to it to follow the line of the shoulder. I have an old WOF pattern that I can start with ... but my version has band at the underbust level and maybe a crossover upper bodice. Of course, I will also have to finish a UFO before I can start cutting the top. So, it looks like the bamboo cord jacket will be ready for fall after all! It was originally going to be the rhinestone Riri, but I think I am going to rip the rainbow Riri out of the jacket's original muslin and use that instead. While I am sewing that, I can decide on the fabric for the top. Will it be bamboo knit or a Sophia knit? Both are in the stash ... Blue, green or teal? Burgundy is too dark yet for this time of year, I think.

What say you all?

Rethinking workwear

For those of you who have been wodnering where I have been I can safely say I have not been sewing. I have been lurking and reading and trying to avoid buying patterns and fabrics as I had the plan to finish the work wardrobe this summer. I work at a ladies gym as the club administrator, and have a mandatory top I Have to wear along with black, none fitness wear bottoms of my choice. The top was a choice of a polo shirt in white or black (w/company logo) or a yellow button shirt with darting on the front and shaped sideseams along with the same bottoms. I had stalled in the sewing as word leaked out of new uniforms being on the way. Well, they are now here. I can't post a photo as they have yet to come into my possession, but that will happen next week.

The original plan was to make up a skirt suit out of a black wool w/white pinstripe and then a shirtdress out of a black wool with a blue pinstripe for that Nautica look when combined with the yellow shirt. The goal was to make basic black not boring. So, I chose my fabric very carefully. I have an Armani wool that I was going to tailor into a wonderful pair of trousers now that I have made the HP into a TNT for me. THese are all going to have to be rethought as the new design is a raglan sleeved polo shirt with some shaping (according to the photo, anyway ... stay tune for that!). The colour is a red, but it looks to be a blue toned red so far with white accents at the seam lines. That won't do for the shirtdress or the business suit. They are dressing me down and I am not sure that I like it!

So, I have a HP Sportive Skirt suit already half done in bamboo cord that will fit the bill. The skirt is done already, lined with a remnant of silk bought for a steal at Darrell's and the matching jacket is cut and ready to go under the machine. The delay has been due to a window repair that required the computer to be relocated into the Shop as it had the only phone jack for the DSL connection. So, now that the computer is back, I have yet to set the room to rights. (I did find an old cross stitch that has been aging in the closet though ... I pulled that out and have been playing away at that again!) I have a pair of the Razor Sharps in a cashmere wool for the winter that is divine to wear! As I haven't pressed the crease in, they can be dressed down a bit.

So, all you wardrobe mavens ... how do I rework this new wardrobe to accomodate the polo shirts? Patterns already on hand and fitted include the HP Razor Sharps, the HP Sportive Skirt Suit, the Chilled Out Sweat suit and the Skinny Jeans (which aren't so skinny at my size range!); I have a DKNY pant that I have never tried but is cut out that has seamlines in the front and back that could be sharp yet casual. But would they look good in the wool? I seem to have blinders on that all I can see for these fabrics are business clothes! I need pattern suggestions please!

Fabric list: wool (tropical weight) w/white pinstripes
wool w/cashmere w/blue pinstripes
wool (midweight) with a herringbone pattern woven in
rayon linen (very lightweight)
bamboo knit
Sophia knit

I am going to have to finish that jacket and then I figure I can start on the new special project. In the spring was the First Communion Dress, two years ago it was the Cocktail Dress that was my incarnation of the HP BOllywood for the Pilot's Grad dinner. Now, I am going to work on a dress for me again! My company holds it's annual conference each year in the summer. The weekend ends in an invite only event knwon as "Top 500". It is for the top sales people in the company and for select others that have been nominated by their home clubs. Not being a sales person, my GM nominated me to go. The big finale of the event is a Hawaiian boat cruise on Lake Ontario. Thanks to MaryBeth, I now have seen the Decades of Style pattern line and fell in love with this dress pattern ... it is a 1940's wrap sundress that I have to have!!!! In the right print this could be nice Hawaiian as opposed the probably prolific tacky style that will prevail on the cruise!


I may have to play with the back a bit if I can't find a bra to go with it, but that won't be a problem. I've already warned Darrell that I need the right fabric and he is waiting with a "classic linen print" for me. Can't wait to see what it is like! I never have issues with his choices! If I do get the linen, then I may just enter this into the Threads Linen Challenge! I am thinking of trying a French seam or a Hong Kong finish or some other treatment I have never tried. Why not push my limits a bit more, right?

So I await eagerly the wardrobe advice, ladies! Maybe later we can talk about the shoes already residing in the Closet to supplement this wardrobe in the making ...

Promised Pics ...

For those who have mastered the art of patience, you are about to be rewarded ... thanks to the efforst of the Pilot, the Easter dress and Confirmation Dress photos are done and on the hard drive, so here they are! I made the same dress for each occasion, with minor changes (by request) to the sleeve design and the neckline. The floral Easter version came first and was made directly out of the envelope. I used a thin stretch cotton with a lining of yellow cotton. She likes the belt tied in front rather than the back here. The belt is meant to tie in the back but is actually long enough to wrap around the front once and then tie in back. It made for sitting through the Mass a bit uncomfortable, though, so she tied it in front.

The sleeves are way too full (she likened them to wings) and even if they were made in the chiffon asked for, I think it would be too much on her frame, so for the next version, I converted them into what I call a tulip sleeve (please correct me if I am wrong when you see the photos below). I also didn't like the way the bodice gaped at the neckline in the square shape, so I rounded it off for her. It then fit much better, but I think that if I were to do the square version again, I would have to dart out some of the neckline as the chest area fits well on her as she is a bit broad across the chest and back.

For the Communion version, I took my little fashionista to see Darrell at his shop to pick out fabric. I was thinking a nice cotton for comfort and ease, but then after talking to Denise (Darrell's wonderful assistant who happens to run her own kids label on diplay and sale at Darrell's now!), we decided on a silk dupioni skirt with a beaded silk bodice to match. Although initially against the thought of a one occassion dress, I then decided that it was time that I added to the garment history in the family. There are Baptism gowns on both sides already, but the only First Communion pieces are the headpiece and veil and purse that my sister's all wore. The head piece is now fitted to a bridal veil from my wedding, so we didn't want to take that apart, so I had nothing for my daughter to wear. So, I showed the silk to Hamster Girl and she was smitten (she loves the feel of fine fabrics and adores Darrell's shop just because of the rack of silk samples she fondles for hours on end!). Away we went home with a family piece in the making!

There were two time consuming issues with this dress: the beads and cleaning the sewing room. The sewing room needed to be purged of black lint. You see, for the past two weeks I had been sewing all black ... the cashmere wool pants, the Windbloc raincoat and the Bamboo cord Sportive skirt suit were all done in black. The cutting table and the machines all needed to be cleared before the antique white silk went anywhere near the room! The next hardest part of this dress was removing the beads from the seam allowances and to give room for the presser foot to move. Smashing each bead was preferred to the easier method of snipping the thread as that allows beads further down the thread to come off, so out came the small sewing hammer! I wrapped the head in some scrap cotton so that there was no chance at marking up the fabric. Then I was good to go!

There were many mini bridal gowns worn by her classmates (complete with veils and tiaras), but I think that this simple dress and her headband suited her much better. She loved the dress and I think it is a classic style that can be handed down to her daughter and maybe even Dino Boy's one day. This time, the ties were shortened so that one wrap in front and they were fine to tie in the back. As this dress is supposed to be mid calf length, the original ties would be very porportional if the length was not shortened as it was here. My daughter is quite the young lady when the time calls for it, but she is still very tomboyish at heart, so full length was not an option at all for her!

Here is a shot of the two of them, he counting the hours till his birthday while he sat and watched all the little "kids", mumbling about being bored when not serving on the altar! I am proud of how he let her have her day and didn't spend it all talkign about close his big day was!

Time Flies ...

Time is flying so fast here at Newman's Needle! It seems like only last week that I posted and promised pant photos. Since then, I have finished the cashemere wool pants, made a rain jacket for Dino Boy and then a dress for Hamster Girl for Easter (really a wearable muslin for her First Communion dress). I have managed also to alter a work shirt to fit much better only to have to tweak it a bit more. The photos are still AWOL. I find I am making more time to sew and to read my blog friends works, but not returning the favour by posting my own. Now that I am back in the sewinng world again, I am going to work more on posting as well.

I just got caught up over at Couturesmith where Connie is working on yet another wedding gown for her daughter's upcoming event. I smiled as she spoke about the mundane hand work and the inevitable rip stitching that comes with the end of a project. Today I spent in the work shop cutting and sewing and doing my fiar share of rip stitching as I worked with the beaded silk that makes up the bodice of Hamster Girl's First Communion Dress.

The sleeves in the original did not meet her desires as they were too wing like for her taste. So, the very full sleeve became an overlapped tulip sleep with a gathered cap. The ties were put in backwards (lining up) to the original as she likes it to wrap in front then tie in back. The beads needed removing in the seam allowances and the seamline (+1/4") to allow for a flat sewing surface. There were issues with the sleeve redesign that had me ripping the serged finish (lucky for me I don't trim the s.a. off when edge finishing at the start!) and that took a while.

All through the frustrations I kept breathing deeply. For like Connie's many wedding dresses, this is a memory project. My daughter's First Communion is tomorrow, you see, and I wanted to add a piece ot the family collection of special pieces. Both sides of the family have a baptism gown that has been handed down. There is a baby quilt made for me by my grand mother that is a constant companion to Hamster Girl in her bedroom. The head piefce that held the veils for my 3 sisters way back on their First Communion was worn for my wedding. All these memories. All these special sewing projects that have been handed down to me. This is my chance to continue the pattern and to hand something down to my children. So, no cotton for this dress. This one is beaded silk bodice with a dupioni skirt. This will be stored with my wedding dress for the future. I am pretty sure that she will be too tall for my dress, but I am sure that I can alter it to make something special for her wedding out of it.

Tomorrow my little girl walks up the aisle in her little white dress. Soon enough the time will come when she ias asking for her prom dress, then soon enough after that the "Big" white dress ... time flies. Time to take photos to freeze these moments! Tomorrow there will be lots of photos taken as she wears both dresses for her Nanna and Poppa and her Auntie who are here to share this special time. Maybe I can finish a skirt while I am at it for myself for tomorrow ... all I need to do is construct the lining and hem it. Doable before 1:00 pm???? Stay tuned!

Pants Pizazz!

I took a big step last week-end ... I cut out a pair of pants in a brown wool that has aged nicely in the stash for 2 years. Why the nerves over something I have successfully cut and fitted before? Because of the new fit. You see, I have been working with a trainer at work for the past six months (if you count the almost 5 weeks we were "paused" due to vacation and work load) and as a result, I have lost some inches. I was not sure how much this would matter until the Liz Claiborn pants I had purchased last fall began to actually fall off! So, I took a deep breath and decided that I would take a risk and go down a whole size on the pattern.

I pulled out the HP Razor Sharp pants pattern and cut out a size 14. Something I haven't done on pants since my early years of sewing (and those didn't even fit right!). Rather than make up muslin, I pulled out the brown wool and just went at it! I cut it out as a 14 as is with out any additions to the s.a. at all. When sewing, I did hedge and only use 3/8" s.a. on the s.s and the inseam, however, I did use the full 5/8" at CB&CF. I also did my standard curve adjustment (I lower the J into more of an L) as that is something that is standard for my figure. By eliminating the darts at the front and back, I have that little bit of ease that I need at the waist.

I gave them a quick try on a minute ago and held my breath while I turned into my corner mirrors ... WAHOOO!!!! IT WORKED!!!! The back looks AMAZING! I now have quite the nice butt in these pants! So, now all I have to do is to cut out the silk organza that I want to use as a lining and I will have a new pair of trousers for parent teacher night at the end of the week. The even better news is that now I can breathe easier and cut out another pair in the cashmere wool (lined again with the silk organza) as I now am certain of the fit!

I would show photos but I need to get to bed as we are expecting snow and freezing rain over night, so I will have to shovel in the morning. That means getting up early ...

This will really motivate me to continue on with the training as I definitely see a difference in the body shape even if the pounds are not dropping much! Who needs scales when you have a measuring tape???

I will post back tomorrow night after I come back from the Beaver meeting with Monkey Girl and have the lining cut out. Then I may have a photo to share as well. I will start to draft my review of the pattern as I go, but that will be posted much later in the week.