Reviews & ramblings

It came to me that I have not been posting many reviews lately despite some actual sewing on my part. So, after supper, I spent an hour or so drafting reviews of my last few HP projects. The reviews for the Chilled Out Sweatsuit pants (that still need some tweaking), the (Sort of) Sportive Skirt and the Every Day Pant/Capri makeover are all in draft form awaiting photos (and in the case of the capris, hems and waistband facings). The capris, BTW are TDF! I am amazed at the way the back lies and the adjustments were so minimal. I just wish I had a photo to show you but Hamster Boy took my rechargable batteries for his NERF dart gun's "laser" site for battles with his friends (and for those hallway ambushes he pulls on his father each night at bedtime!). I think I better buy some new ones tomorrow morning so that I have my own supply again!

I am fighting a mean viral throat infection right now so sewing is in short bouts as I stop to take meds and drink huge amounts of fluids to keep the rawness at bay. Tomorrow is going to be a heavy sewing day. The capris will be finished and then the lining will be started for my friend's dress. I should be able to get that done by supper as the fitting is finished in the muslin already. I need to throw together a top for the Pilot's office BBQ on Sunday to go with the capris. Do I maintain my HP obsession and go with the Princess Top or the Great White Shirt or do I go in another direction altogether? That remains to be seen according to time available, I think! I would like to go get a few things for the kids for school tomorrow aft as well. They go back on Tuesday ...

I have applications out for 3 positions that interest me and suit my desires for schedules and pay. Today's job interview went well. It was actually a call back for a position I didn't get last spring but now have the opportunity to try for again. They were willing to check to see if they could match the pay of one other job I applied for, so that is a good sign. I'll know Tuesday afternoon.

If I get this position, I may have to rethink all my sewing projects wrt jackets. The dress is business casual, so making a bunch of tailored jackets may be overkill. I am OK with my pant plan, but may have to reconsider the jackets. I'll still do the Kensington Jacket to go with the skirt, but I am now on the look out for other options along the line of the Sportive Skirt Suit jacket. I have this Peggy Sagers' pattern on hand that I could dress down with the right fabric ... maybe alter it for a zip instead of that ribbon. There were a couple of nice Marfy's in the latest catalogue that I like. But that is another post altogether! That requires batteries to show the photos of my wishlist!

Marvelous Marfy Minute ...

On Friday night, I went onto the Marfy site and ordered the catalogue. I paid for the faster shipping as the price was not that much different. The amazing thing is that I got an e-mail the same night saying it was being shipped. According to the UPS site, it is in the city and is en route to my house as I type. WOW! That was fast ... now I can't wait until the doorbell rings and I have it in my greedy little hands!

Now, back to those fast capris ... I added a cut on front fly as side zips tend not to lie flat on my curves. I have a job interview on Thursday morning (after coffee with the girls, of course!), so I want to get these done for then. I am thinking a fast wrap front/twist top to coord with it. Somebody posted a RTW one over at PR a week or so ago. I can't find the link right now, but if I get the top done, I'm sure I'll find it for my review. Basically the top is a faux wrap with a side twist to it. The twist is about midway between CF and the s.s. and is below the bustline, around waist level. As my belly is not for public consumption, I will be making a full wrap under. I am going to start with the Jalie wrap top as it has a nice cut line for the under panel already. I am going to use that as a seamline vice a cut line.

Hemming along ...

I haven't been posting much this week as I have been spending my mornings doing back to school shopping with the kids, getting what we call PP&S (pens, paper and stuff) and then overheating poolside as I watch them in their swimming lessons. Last week I read and missed the action, so this week, I took the Challenge skirt and am (sit down for this, it is a shocker) hand hemming the skirt. I also hand stitched in the ditch the waist facing. I will machine stitch that later on. Those two circles flounces take forever to do. I have one more day of classes left. I want to get it done tomorrow so that I can have it ready to wear on a moment's notice.

A dear friend of mine from University days has a wedding to attend on the long weekend. I am working on her dress right now. We have settled on the shorter length and the sleeve is still in limbo. The longer sleeve doesn't suit her and would be impractical seeing as her 18 month old would only swing on it. The cap sleeve I think is too short on her. She is fairly even in her measurements (almost a rectangle), but has a very broad upper back and a wide ribcage. I think that if I shorten the longer sleeve it can be quite flirty and still be stylish. We are trying to decide on whether or not she gets the front tie or not. I am thinking no, she is hopeful for a yes. We'll see what the mirror says. The muslin is cut and will be put together tonight.

The other project I have on the table is a pair of pants. Yup, another one! I am a sucker for punishment. I am determined to get through all the pant patterns I have at least once. This pair is the HP Plain and Simple Everyday Pant. I threw together a trial pair in some mystery fabric from my Mother's stash. I cut a 16 and took a 1/2" deep dart tuck from CB to nothing at the s.s. and then added that 1" back to the top of the pant. The back drape is beautiful with 3/8" s.s. and 5/8" CB/CF! It needs some minor reshaping at the hip curve and most likely the darts will disappear in the front. It is still a bit short in crotch depth, but I figure that I can add that in easy enough. I have something buried in my construction files about that in HP patterns. I'll look later.

I broke the moratorium on shopping today to spend my birthday $ from the DMIL. I had hoped to find some nice mmidweight fabric for a pair of casual capris from the above pattern, but other than wrinkle prone linen, I was out of luck. So, I picked up some nice wools instead! I found a beautiful wool/rayon flannel in a navy (perfect for a skirt to match to a black and navy tweed destined for a jacket already in the stash), a wool/silk boucle type in a deep purple that will be prefect for a fall jacket if the cashmere one from last year doesn't work out with new tinkering this year. I also picked up some nice brown wool/rayon as well for the HP pants. I also picked up some heavier cotton for a few shirts for the Pilot and I and some nice navy twill with border embroidery for Monkey Girl for school. I see a jumper and a skirt for her and then with the plain, maybe some pants.

I now have the makings of a very nice work wardrobe. I will have the green wool 3 piece suit (skirt, pants & jacket), the navy skirt and jacket and then there is the (I almost forgot!) black wool pinstripe in the stash that will be an as of yet to be determined dress/suit? Have to think about that ... I have a couple of nice dress and jacket patterns from Vogue in the stash that will do. Then there will be all the shirts/ blouses and tops I need to do as well! Now all I have to do is get a job! LOL!

Oh I almost forgot ... I took the plunge and ordered the Marfy catalogue tonight. I was drooling over Maria's copy at Darrell's the other night. She is going to put in an order soon that I was going to tag along with, but I think I will wait until mine comes in so that I can take my time choosing! There was an amazing jacket in there that I fell in love with that would be amazing with in that purple wool/silk!

Kismet for the Needle

It must be going around today. I just finished reading Ann's post over at Gorgeous Things' blog about chance meetings that may turn into something good. I spent the weekend on the sofa nursing a mild case of stomach flu and forced myself to go to the gym this morning for a light workout. While packing up my gear, I was watching a fellow member evaluating a workout top that was on sale in the gym. The inner Seamstress said "if I was to sew that she would need a smaller size with an FBA, and those spaghetti straps are not recommended". I watched her as she shortened the straps to make it fit better. She gave a big sigh and turned to me and asked "You wouldn't happen to sew would you?". The look on her face when I said yes was almost comical. She didn't expect a yes. She asked what I thought about the fit and I had to be honest and say, "you need another size" and then explain why. After a few moments, she is asking for my card and my price list(which I of course carry with me to the gym (NOT!)). Wednesday we'll meet again after our workout and away we go!

So, I may have another client here ... kismet. Who have you met today?

Challenge complete ... Almost

Last night I managed to get the skirt to the point of only needing hemming and the zipper put into the CB seam. The zip goes up into the waistband, so that had to go on last night. As I am using an invisible zip, I left the CB seam open in order to be able to put it in on the flat. Much easier, IMO. The contrast flounce and waistband looks really sharp. I am really glad that I went with the contrast there.

The contrast tweed is really nice to work with, but is a looser weave than I thought it was. Hindsight says that maybe I should have interfaced it in the waistband. When I make the jacket, I will have to interface the body and stabilize ... a perfect opportunity to open up my Palmer Pletsch Jackets for Real People book and use it, start to finish! I plan on making the matching jacket from the HP Sportive Suit in a brown Ottoman that I have in the stash, maybe with some accents from the tweed. For a dressier look I will go for the now OOP HP pattern, the Moneypenny Kensington Jacket. It is a tailored jacket with soft shaping that will be perfect for this tweed. Once those are complete, I will actually have the basis for a SWAP capsule, I think. I will have a pair of pants (already in the Closet, made in the same green wool as the skirt), 2 jackets and the skirt. If I make another pair of pants and maybe half a dozen tops, then I am done, if I have the concept right.

For fun last night, I pinned out the back of the Chilled Out Sweatsuit pants. I pinned out a horizontal dart of about 3/4" above the crotch curve and them pesky wrinkles went away. I may baste it in and take a pic to make sure I am right. I'll add the note to my review for next time. The next pair of pants will be another HP pattern. I have the Razor Sharp Pant that could be up next, I think. I have a nice narrow wale brown cord in a tweed pattern that will be great for those ... or maybe another pair of HP Skinny Jeans.

The next up in line will be a dual track project. School starts soon and Hamster Boy needs/wants jeans. Good thing is the weather will still be warm and he can wear his shorts for at least another few weeks. So, I have 2 lengths of stretch denim in the stash, one goes for jeans, the other for his jean jacket. That will be my evenings. Days will be this dress. A dear friend has a wedding to attend in the fall and needs a dress. She is a Registered Massage Therapist and we have worked out a swap of skills. Gotta love a full body massage ...

Last minute changes

I did some re-thinking of the skirt last night in bed. I realized that I really liked those pleats I added to the CB panels and did not want to shorten them by adding a yoke and facings. So, I decided to go back to the original idea of bias side panels. I think that this will add some nice shaping to the sides, and be anchored nicely by the flounces. So, I laid out, cut and hand basted (on the table) the bias panels together and then pinned them to Mindy for overnight hanging. I cut them with an extra 1" s.a. and then basted on 5/8", so I should have enough room for this to work out. I hope ... this is one of my first independant forays into the bias. In my basting, I used long stitches and broke the thread every couple of inches. That was a tip I picked up from the Roberta Carr book.

One thing I was not sure of, is when to attach the flounces. I am assuming that since the hem would be done after hanging, then anything stitched to the hem (like a flounce) would also be done after. Was I right? We'll see tomorrow ...

The other change I made was to increase the depth of the flounce. I added an extra 2" to it. Yardage restrictions gave me the opportunity to use the wool tweed that coords with the solid green for the flounce. I also used it for the waist bands. Should the bias panels not work out, I may just use the tweed for the side panels (on grain) and have the CF/CB panels and waist as the solid green and the rest in the tweed. I have options. Either way, this will be a nice touch for the jacket when it is made up. It will show them as a pair, while still leaving the skirt to stand on it's own.

So, the sides of the skirt are hanging and the flounces are stitched together (using French seams) and awaiting tomorrow's race to the finish. I may lose Wed afternoon to mini golf with the kids, so I have to get at it tomorrow as soon as I get back from the gym.

I must say that I like how easy this skirt is to work with so far, even with all the changes I made to it.

Pleating Pleasures

Well, I have done it! I took a wild chance at the CB pleated panel and, with some effort, it worked. To make the panel piece, I taped the existing kick pleat panel to the CB panel and extended it up to the waist. This is when I started having some teeth gnashing. The pleats weren't lying right, but that was because I has gotten to this point without a plan. There was no fixed idea of how many pleats or how deep or the spacing ... nothing! So, what did I do? I stitched it onto the skirt anyway, thinking that I could figure it out when I could see it on Mindy. Didn't work. At all.

Next step? Take the panel off of Mindy and work the pleats on the ironing board. After a few attempts at a variety of widths, nothing seemed to work. I couldn't seem to get the pleats straight all the way down ... so I grabbed my metal yard stick and used that as a straight edge. Then I had a light bulb moment ... there is a line in the middle of the yardstick. All the way down ... Next attempt, I used the yard stick as a spacer and used the mid line as the depth marker. Easy! Perfect sizing of the pleats to get the back panel down to the correct size. I stitched the pleats flat for about 9" from the waist and then stitched the panels to the skirt and tried it on. MWA! I almost kissed my reflection! I need a smidge more room around the hips (surprise, surprise there!), but that is doable. Tomorrow I draft the facings from the pattern and then refine the width of the flounce. Then I can cut the skirt out tomorrow night as well. I am living this project!

Skirt Challenge - Stage 2

Well, the muslin is put together. The circular flounce came out nicely although I still have to fine tune the inside measurement of the circle a bit better. I like the way it looks right now (a 4" flounce) which means I have to make it longer to allow for the needed narrow hem. The problem right now is the pleated CB panel. I had envisioned a panel that was pleated from waist to hem, stitched flat over the seat, but I guessed at the amount, figuring I could just pin the pleats in. Silly me. So, my bedtime reading tonight is going to be a back issue article from Threads (thanks Diva Els!) and Armstrong on pleats. Then I can get back at it tomorrow afternoon.

I am still debating whether or not to add the yoke to the skirt. The prototype is sewn in the panels as per the pattern, so I can just add a facing to it and leave it as is. The plan was to get the flounce and the pleats sorted out and then trace off the shape of the yoke and then go cut it off and recut the yoke and facings in 3 pieces vice the 4 I have now (allowing for a CB zip). But that would ruin the strong vertical element I am trying to out in with the pleating. I am going to have to play a bit, I think. If I can play tomorrow, then by tomorrow night I can redo the patterns as per the changes and then sew it on Monday and Tuesday.

I must say thanks to Maria for loaning me the Roberta Carr book and for Els for sending me the scanned shots of the flounce pages. It really is great to have such resources at hand for projects like this. What a great place the sewing world is ...

On a family note, Hamster Boy came home from camp this afternoon. He went away to Cub Camp for the past 7 days. This is the longest he has been away from us so far. He spent 4 days at his aunt's when I went to bring the Pilot home, but that was with family, so it was a bit different. And he had Monkey Girl with him then. This time he was only with his fellow Cubs Scouts. He had loads of fun and is exhausted, but he missed us at bedtime. He is a boy who hates being away from his own bed, even if we are with him. He likes being home at bedtime. Sleepovers with friends are OK, but home is best. I sense a new aura of self confidence in him, though. My little boy is taller and seems to be a bit older now. I am glad he went, it was worth the expense. But I am so glad he is home!

School starts here in 3 weeks. This is a big thing for me this year as Monkey Girl will be going for full days this year. That means that I can go back to work! It has been requested by the kids that whatever job I get, can I be home when they get home from school. They don't like the idea of a babysitter. I think that the job I am looking at will make that possible. Remember that position at the gym from the spring? They are hiring again ... I applied for a different position, but have been told that they want to talk to me about a couple of positions, so I may be gainfully employed come Labour Day. Seeing as I really would love new kitchen cupboards, this will be a great thing for us if I get the job. Stay tuned for news next week ...

Summer camps!

This morning I was at the gym listening to music on my "bot (what I call my MP3 player) and reading the subtitles to a news channel. One of the "news" headlines caught my eye and then my ire. Turns out in Halifax, Nova Scotia (where I spent a lot of my childhood) the city is putting on some day camps for boys and girls. Turns out that a little girl (about 10-12 y.o. age range I guess) wanted to sign up for the boys only camp as she was not interested in the girls camp. This is where my blood pressure started to rise, I am afraid. I have been blessed with both a son and a daughter. I teach both of them that gender is not an issue and that they both are able to do the same things as the other. In fact, both children are in Scouts together. Monkey Girl is not interested in Girl Guides or Brownies. So, she entered Scouts. Now, I realize that her access into Scouts is only due to the lawsuits of the past. So, I feel for the little girl in her quest for a camp that interested her, whether it is Coed or not. You see, the only other option to this camp was a "Glamour Day" camp. This did not appeal to her sense of fun at all.

Now, I have to be honest here. I do believe that there is a huge gender double standard out there. Us women have been suing for access to all programs on the grounds of gender discrimination, but we have no qualms in denying access to males who want to enter our domains on the grounds of needing our own space. My question, when do men get their own space? So, my problem with this whole incident is that there was no middle ground option for camp. You were either in the boy camp or the girl one. Easy solution? Offer the program in a coed option or a male only option. That way there is pure choice.

Still on the subject of camps, I came across this little story in the National Post, a newspaper up here. It is a design camp, only without all the PR drama. The kids get to design, sew and then show their creations at a fashion show at the end of the session.

Think Canada's Next Top Model Meets Camp. This is a week-long fashion camp, hosted by the Design Exchange, an organization devoted to promoting Canadian design

One of the 12 year old campers has this to say:

"That's another [thing] with people who are buying clothes," she sighs. "They don't realize all the hard work that goes into them."She doesn't get a chance to finish. The day is winding down and cleanup is beginning. As the girls clean the scraps off the table, Cate reflects on her experiences at the camp.
"I'd rather be here than anywhere else in the summer," she says. "This is funner because you get to do your passion."

What a great camp idea ... I wonder if it is Coed?

Design Options ...

As I was sketching belowstairs, I have come up with some design options for the skirt. I have decided to forgoe the bias side panels. I am still using the panelled skirt, but am adding a deep shaped yoke ending at around the hip level. As I am eliminating the back kick pleat, I need to add walking ease. I would love to incorporate some pleating in this skirt somehow but I also think that a nice flounce would be very flirty as well.

The idea for the pleating came from this discontinued Folkwear pattern that I have in the stash. This pattern has the pleating at the sides going all the way to the waist. This pleating would be great on the side panels and if I only pleat below the yoke, then I would not have to worry about adding bulk at the hips. There would be no need for the flounce in this option, but I would still be one element short for The Challenge requirements.

If I pleated the CB panel only, that would still give me the walking room I need and I could still have the flounce on the bottom 4" or so of the side panels. That would allow some of the visual interest to carry around to the front. I would leave the CF panel on grain as per the pattern. This option would also give me the three elements I need.

What do you think?

Why Google is my friend ...

I have cut the HP pattern out for the basis of the skirt for The Challenge. I have decided to eliminate the existing waistband and go for a faced waist instead. I am going to add a circular ruffle and place the side panels on the bias. Since I am going for the solid green wool that means I don't have to worry about any pattern matching. I am also adding a circular ruffle to the hemline. The third element is still a mystery. There already is a box pleat in the back of the skirt, but since I am adding the ruffle, I am going to leave that out.

There was a little stall in my process, however, in that I had no source material in my reference collection (limited as it is) to calculate how many circles I would need for this skirt. The instructions in Armstrong deal with how to make a circle, half or quarter circle skirt, but not what I wanted (if I am worng somebody PLEASE tell me what page to use ... I have the latest edition!). Diva Els refers to Roberta Carr's book Couture: The Art of Fine Sewing, which I don't have (insert a not nice word here!) and the library does not have it either (I love online library catalogues!). So, I have e-mailed two local PR members to see if either of them have it for me to borrow. Not wanting to stop my efforts on this skirt so soon, I turned to Google and took a wild guess.

I typed in "drafting circular ruffles" and found not only El's post over at The Sewing Divas, but also this lovely site that actually has a calculator that does all the math for you and actually tells you how many circles you need and how big to make them and how much fabric you will need to cut them! How easy is that?! I LOVE IT ... but I am still going to hunt down that book and buy it for myself for my birthday! The tradition continues ... a new sewing book each year!

On Age ...

I can proudly (and honestly) say that today I celebrated the 39th anniversary of my birth. Yup, that means that as of today I began my first day of my 40th. To my husband, when I pulled this logic on him some 6 years ago (the Pilot turned 46 this month, you see), he gave me a weird look and then said quite firmly "I am not 40! Not for another 3 hours ...". It was a challenging year for him and the only good thing about it was the fact that he was in his fortieth year and could laugh about it. You see, we both believe that if you don't have a sense of humour, DO NOT let us know when your birthday is. We are known in his family and amongst our friends for placing penguins, cows, buzzards, storks, or whatever tacky lawn ornament we can rent on lawns for significant days. We laugh at birthdays, not stress out over them. So, today, as I stare 40 in the face, I am laughing.

No midlife crisis for me! Why suffer through midlife, I ask, when there are so many little crises throughout your life already! Spread the pain out and laugh more! And who says this is the middle of your life? I personally would love to live beyond 80, so I have yet to reach the middle of my life! When I do decide on an end date, then I'll be able to decide what the midlife date is!

Time was when older women were respected and revered for their wisdom. The old crone was usually a woman of some status and respect in the village of yore, somebody who had seen life at its best and worse and survived to tell the tale. She was somebody who had answers, but knew when it was best to be a silent supporter to allow the youngsters to figure things out on their own. I am not a crone, but that is something that I aspire to. I see women who are double my age and they are out dancing through life and laughing a mile a minute, regardless of the wrinkles each laugh makes. Badges of honour, each and every one.

So, I am going to enjoy 39 and view it as a training ground for my 40's. May I have the grace of my sister in law who accepted our Stonehenge card with the caption "See? There is something older than you!", the practicality of my lovely mother who sent me a card that doubles as a fan for the hot flashes that are to come (a good German woman who believes that preparation is everything!) and the sense of humour of my friend who gave me a card at the coffee shop this morning wishing that my year (and coffee cup) "runneth over" with good things, may I keep the whimsy of my daughter who took me to Timmy's tonight for a birthday doughnut. Because life doesn't end at 40 ... it is just beginning!

Signing off as I descend to the workshop for a night of caffeine induced sewing thanks to my daughter, husband and dear friend!

Second thoughts can lead to surprises

Well, despite the initial sense of boredom with the latest project, I finished the top. And received a pleasant surprise! I am so glad that I didn't toss the top unfinished. I learned a few things from this top. First, I was right in not needing an FBA. It fits fine without it, but a small one would not be amiss if I want to use a s.a. of greater than 3/8" on the s.s. Second, I did need to lower the bustline about an inch or two to get it in the place I want it to be. It is OK where it is, but would be better lower. Third, I like this kimono sleeve style on me. I am pleasantly surprised! There is a bit of an armscye crease, but I think this is inherent in the design. If I am wrong, somebody please let me know ... I am always open to constructive correction! The last thing is that this would be great in a knit, so I will make at least one more from the supply of rayon knits from the stash. I suspect that the knit will fit better than the woven unless I do the FBA to give a bit more ease. Last lesson, Mindy's cover needs to be adjusted. It seemed way too small on her. So that will be a project for a rainy day I think!



So, I am glad I finished this top, even though the initial reaction was not very good. So, sometimes it pays to keep going even though you really don't want to!

Next up is a skirt project for the monthly S&B at Darrell's. A simple skirt with 3 original elements added. Lots of leeway there. I have decided to use the Hot Patterns Sportive Skirt as a base. I had initially planned on taking a pencil skirt and adding panels and a curved waistband on my own. But then my thought process was interrupted by the screaming from the Workshop Closet. Turns out I had a pattern already there with some of the elements I wanted already there! Amazing what you can hear when you actually listen to the Closet ...

I am going to use a medium weight dark green wool in the stash that was always intended to be a skirt. That way, I can later progress into a tailored jacket out of a coord checked wool. This is something that I have been wanting to do for some time, and since I am now seriously trying to re-enter the workforce, I now need that interview suit. So the question now is, what other elements to add. If I remove the box pleat from the back, I can then add a flounce to the bottom or a block of Hemline pleats in the side panels, or even just switch the box pleat to a set of narrower pleats. I plan to eliminate the waistband and instead use a deep curved faced yoke with belt loops. But I need one more element ... Maybe a welt pocket somewhere? I will have to see where the seams are when I muslin this up later on tonight. If the panel seams lie in the right place, maybe I can do a vertical pocket there. If not then I may have to do an angled pair in the side panel.

Second thoughts

Ever start a project with some enthusiasm only to have that slowly but steadily disappear as you progress? You know what I mean. You've done it. Picked a pattern, matched it to stash fabric in your mind and cleared the table of project so that you can carry on uninterrupted. Then, from the moment you lay out the fabric you hear that inner voice murmuring. First, the fabric is narrower than expected. Easy fix, you alter the layout (who follows those things anyway?). Then you start cutting (there should be enough ease with smaller s.a., after all, it is loose fitting, right?). Of course you did a dry fit of the pattern and the fabric pieces, right? You didn't just rely on measurements, did you? Because this is supposed to be an easy top for those hot days you are taking it easy sewing it together. Checking the directions even though it is all obvious (except for the insertion of the mandatory modesty panel, those are really hinky!), you start sewing. And, the more you sew, the more you really don't like what it is shaping up to be.

This is where I am at. The fabric is a cotton paisley print from a surprise bundle last summer. I thought this would be an easy project for a nice summer top, but it isn't forming up that way. The fabric is light enough, but there is not enough of it and I think I really should have done an FBA even though the numbers said I didn't have to. I think I am getting too complacent in my sewing. So, I am really not sure this will work out in the chosen fabric for fit issues. But I really don't seem to mind at all. I think I will finish and then re-eval as to whether or not I re-start in a different print. I have some nice summer calicos and florals in the stash that would suit this. I will have to see whether or not the kimono style sleeve suits me body or not, though. This is a new one on me. Either way, at least I am sewing again!

There is a new challenge at the S&B at Darrell's for August. A simple skirt with 3 differnent elements to it. I think that my mind is on that project right now and that is why I am not crazy about this top right now. I have till the 3rd week to get the skirt done. MB and I are brainstorming design ideas ... I hope to start the pattern once the Pilot is back to work on Tuesday. Whether I start from a ready project or I draft my own is something I am still trying to decide on.

Magazine Musings ...

It is interesting to see that Taunton Press has decided to cease publication of it's latest offering, "Sew Stylish". With the website up at the same time, I was watching to see how much content would be duplicated in the website. As I saw the site expand to include so many contributors, I began to wonder if it would become the main focus of the Sew Stylish staff. After all, the internet is the fastest medium in which to spread a message. It is also, so the "experts" say, the primary medium for the younger generation. It also doesn't require printing presses and a staff to handle subscriptions and can be advertising driven. So, it is not a surprise that the online version is taking over. Response time is so much faster online. Nothing like instant gratification in publishing!

The comments on the demise of the mag puzzle me, I must admit. I picked up a couple of issues to compare to Threads (to which I suscribe). While there were some articles that were specific to SS, I found the majority to have been copied from Threads (I did like the Formalwear themed issue, however, as it was a useful beginning reference for sewing formalwear). So, in light of this, I wonder why so many people said they preferred SS to Threads? Is it a question of layout? Of strictly article content (this would be puzzling considering the twinning of some of the content)? I would really like to know ... Anybody care to enlighten me with their views? I would love to discuss this ...

Pant foundation

Last night saw me start the pant foundation for the second time. Technically, it was the third time, but I figure the almost complete erasure of the first draft to be a drastic editing, not a re-start. The instructions are fairly straightforward, but I seem to have hit a stumbling block for a while on one step, but I think I have made it past that hurdle alright. I'll find out for sure when I get to the muslin stage!

The foundation (the portion of the pant above the crotch line) is formed by measuring your ankle to waist height and using that as a centre line from which you draft the front and back patterns. You then mark the crotch point, the hip point and the waist points on this line and then extend perpendicular lines according to the amount stated in the instructions. The result is a rectangle shape on each side of the centre line. The problem I have been having seems to lie in the formulas used to draw these lines. Whenever I got to the point of drawing in the darts and extensions, the back numbers never seemed to work out. The numbers would have me extending into the front piece ... so I read it through again and discovered a little note that said to decrease the dart intake by 1/4" if the waist measurement met up with the centre line. Seeing as my measurement bypassed the line, I just marked the side seamline 1/4" in from centre. We'll see how that works out when I muslin it up.

Tonight, I draft the leg extensions ... I think I will update later on with photos to better explain. This won't make sense to those of you who have not done this before. IT barely makes sense to me

Sewing Man Shirts

I have written before of my quest for the perfect fitting shirt for the muscle bound Pilot. Today it takes a quirky side route ... His new position allows him to wear civilian clothes on Fridays. Due to the July Temps, he wanted a short sleeved shirt really quickly for TOMORROW. Turns out the majority of the shirts in his portion of the Closet are POLY and he doesn't like them in hot weather. So, prior to him going shopping for a new shirt (Which we all know won't fit him anyway!), I made him try on the shirts already there that were LS, in the hope that I could cut one down sleeve wise. He has two striped shirts hanging, one is a Hathaway, I am NOT cutting that one until it wears out and can be used as a pattern! Then, in the midst of other shirts, there is the KS shirt I made about 2 years ago. "Try it on", I asked. What was too large then, now FITS!! That is what one full year of daily gym workouts to relieve stress will do ... Had I known that the old pattern would now fit, I would not have had to go bother Darrell. Not that that is a bad thing ...

Except for the sleeves, which are now too short to wear. So, that shirt is now off to the cutting table to become a short sleeved shirt. That means that the second shirt, ageing down in the Shop can be finished and worn for Fridays as well. I sense a menswear binge coming ... as soon as we can agree on fabrics, that is!

Pant Pattern Theory

Before heading to the drafting table, I did some more reading last night. The process of drafting pants is very mathematically. Why this surprised me, I don't know. When I first learned how to do an FBA, it was a similar process. I cut and spread according to measured amounts. In altering my existing pant patterns, it was adjusting by eye all the time. I find that I like the math approach better. It just fits my brain better. Whether or not it will fit my body better, I will find out soon enough, I suppose! I have a pattern printed off from Pattern Maker that I have yet to tape together and sew up. I think I will sew that one up after I have the self drafted pattern done to compare. I have not seen that one reviewed before, so it will be interesting to compare the two. The information that follows is taken from the Helen Joseph Armstrong book Patternmaking for Fashion Design, 4th edition. I am trying not to copy it wholesale, but I do think that for those of you who have not self drafted a pant pattern before, (like me) some of the information behind the process interesting and maybe even helpful.

The intial idea of drafting my own pattern from scratch was quite daunting. How would I handle the shaping of the pieces? How do I determine the crotch curve? How would I draw it? Once I realized that the whole pattern's shape grows as you use the measurements, it seemed easier. The shape starts with a vertical line with a number of horizontal points marked on it according to your measurements. These points are then extended to horizontal lines whose lengths are determined by your measurements and some minor math (all of which is easily diagrammed in the Armstrong book). The curve is also drawn this same way.

I had initially intended to start with the culottes, but closer reading revealed that culottes are based on an A Line skirt with a crotch extension added. Not what I want right now. While the thought of drafting a skirt block also appeals to me, my project this summer is to perfect the pant! So, which one to choose first? Armstrong's trouser pattern is the next logical place to start. The slack is based on the trouser pattern, but my real goal is a nice city short/pedal pusher as an end product. But first I have to draft the trouser, so I guess I will end up with both in muslins!

My time at the table is limited this weekend as I promised Monkey Girl that the next thing off the table is her new bathrobe/housecoat. I am using this cute Simplicity 4767 for her. I made her some PJ's last winter. She loved them but decided that the absence of fabric on her neckline was too chilly for winter temps, so this is now a summer PJ pattern. I cut the robe out of a nice soft yellow Minky that I found at Wal Mart last year for a great price just for this purpose. And I had just enough to sew this up. From now on, I go for my standard yardages for fudge factor. I had hoped to cut the robe longer to allow for the inevitable growth spurt that follows each sewing session for her! Not a chance ... although, there was probably enough last year when I first bought it ... It is all cut out and once I re-thread the serger with lighter threads, I will finish the edges first as it is very messy.

I aim to have it finished for tonight's bath routine, but I do have some shopping to do this afternoon. A coursemate of the Pilot is coming tomorrow with his family. When we were in Toronto, I was given a crash course in Pakistani cooking at his home. Tomorrow I have to recreate what I learned. Tomorrow I get to make Biryani, a wonderful spiced meat and rice dish that is spicy and oh so yummy! To top it off I plan on making a traditional dessert as well. As the family is Muslim, I have to get my meat from a store that stocks Halal meats. No biggy ... I absolutely LOVE going into ethnic grocers ... the smells are divine and I always get new recipes and techniques to add to the Kitchen. I have my list and am waiting for Pilot and Hamster Boy to get back from Rugby. After some lunch and some other errands, we are off to get groceries! I may make the meat tonight and then let it sit in the sauce so that all I have to do is the rice tomorrow.

Next in line ...

Now that Bollywood is finished, I am ready for the next major project. Aside from the spattering of kid sewing and finishing that shirt for the Pilot, I am determined to draft a pant pattern from scratch. Last year I bought Helen Joseph Armstrong's pattern drafting book and have been dutifully skimming it for a year. Time to put measuring tape to body and then pencil to paper!

I figure the amount of time I spend altering patterns can be better put to use drafting my own from scratch. I don't have software and am not sure I want it as I love handling patterns! I can much easier see how to change patterns to reflect the styles I want since I started with this book. And, since the budget may not allow me to take the courses I want this fall, I think I will start with this for now and then see whether or not I need to pay tuition for what I want to do. Once I have mine done, I have convinced a friend to let me do her a pair as well. This will give me experience and her new clothes as she drops her post baby weight. Win win I say!

So, tonight I have the Pilot take that measuring tape to me and then I will start the process. Armstrong's book has foundations for culottes, pants, trousers and jeans. I think I will start with the culottes first as they are fuller and I have a nice stash cotton that would be perfect for summer wear! Then I will go for the pants (only cut to short length).

I have yet to see a comprehensive review of this process anywhere, so I intend this series to be as detailed as I can make it without copyright problems. In other words, I will take photos but I won't type out the entire process. I will, though, post some of the math that I found interesting. To draft your pattern, you start with your hip and waist measurements and then manipulate those to get your crotch extensions, depth and so on. But that will be tomorrow's entry, so I will leave you all in suspense until then!

Bollywood Bash ...

Well, we are home! The graduation is over and was wonderful! The Pilot managed to turn it into a second honeymoon by booking us a room in the fancy hotel we spent the original honeymoon in as well as our first anniversary. This was all done without my knowledge, so when I arrived with my bags, he says with a grin, "Don't unpack too much ... we're not staying long". What a night! The restaurant had a wonderful view of Lake Ontario and the city as it revolved, giving us the full view of the sunset over the horizon. Perfectly romantic! Even with all the others at the table. We all were very quiet as we sat with our spouses and watched the sun go down. It has been a long 10 months, even for those who were lucky enough to be with their families the whole time. For those of you who put up with my private and public rants over the past year, thanks for putting up with me. Your kind words of patience often helped me get through this single parent thing. Now I just need to adjust to him still being here all the time!

I almost called this post "The Eagle Has landed ... in Bollywood" but thought better of it. It just isn't me ... but almost! The dress was a huge success. The Pilot had spoken about the dress (All he knew was that it was silk, no more info allowed) to the women on course who wanted to know what was being worn so that they could judge what to wear themselves. He was no help to them, but the rampant curiousity had me almost swarmed when we arrived. Those who knew I had made the dress were amazed and were asking permission to touch the fabric. Those who didn't know, soon found out as the word spread throughout the wives. I even had a Stacy London moment as the wife of a US Air Force officer came up and said "SHUT UP! You did NOT make that dress! By. YOUR. SELF! Tell me you do this for a living and where because I want you to make me something! WHERE DID YOU GET THAT FABRIC!!!!!" Between that reaction and the two German Officer's wives who both gave great compliments (one wanted to know which boutique I shop at that sells matching shoes!), my ego got quite the boost that night ... even before the wine started to flow!

So, credit where credit is due: To Darrell, thanks for the fabrics and the confidence. We'll talk more when/if that US wife comes up for a fitting! To MB, thanks for all the encouragement and advice! Ells, your knowledge, as always, is a comfort when I ask for help. Enough small talk ... what you really want is to see the dress, right? So, here it is after the night of dancing and socializing! I did end up hand stitching a modesty panel in the day before I left, but I think that it still works ...


The gathering shifted a bit I think when I stitched the bodice to the waist panel, so I am not 100% with the way the bodice lies, especially in the centre panels of the front. I had some concern about the fabric and the pattern, but in the end, it turned out OK. The last bit of hindsight self-criticism? I think I should have NOT added the fullness to the bodice. To my mind, it really emphasizes the Twins. So, should I actually do this as a summer dress, there will be no additional fullness on top. Too bad the Pilot couldn't get the shoes in the shot ... he is learning how to use his new digi cam. Finally, he joins the rest of us in this century! Suffice it to say that I found a pair of strappy leather sandals in a beautiful bronze that actually matched the contrast on the dress and I found them at Sears of all places! Fate, my friends, it had to be fate!

Well, I am off to get supper going for the restless kidlings. Iffy weather and friends being away has made them restless ... time to go shopping, I think! It always makes me feel better!