Sewing in the Sun 2019 - Musing about Muslins (Miracle Pants)

DISCLAIMER!!!
This series is NOT intended as a set of fit lessons. I am not an expert. This is just a record of what I am doing this weekend, for my body type with these patterns. This is not intended as a summary of the lessons learned Sewing in the Sun weekend.  This is just my projects, in the rough, with personal commentary.

The urge to start fitting this pattern was almost overwhelming!  It is like washing and styling your hair before you go get it cut ... you just HAVE TO, right???  So, here is it is ... all in its unvarnished and unaltered glory.

What I was told to do:

Cut the pattern in a woven, add 2" to the side seams, stitch the fronts together, stitch the backs together, then do the inseam from crotch down, per leg. Pin the sides together and baste (remember my yoga comment??? That reappears here!).

What I did:

I did all that. :) 

Rear view, unaltered, side seams pinned on original cut line, s. 18

What a nice crotch curve that is ... such a  nice fit, you say. What you do not see in this photo is that the pattern is not fitted as close as it should be (Ithink) and then there is the major gap between the fabric and my back. Could be sway back or hollow back or just MYBACK.  Regardless, there is substantial space there, this IS the elasticated waist, though.  My fear is that the back will have too much bulk as is... I think something needs doing there. Then there is all that mess below the curve. We will see what tomorrow brings as this is a common occurence for me. 

Side view

 So, the side view shows that I am officially off balance. That could just be me twisting in the photo frame, but I suspect not. The front needs more of, well, everything except me! See next photo for that proof of life ...

Front view

So, this nicely shows that lovely hollow at the top of my thighs that causes issues with every pocket I add to pants that involve the side seams, also showcases my lovely belly below my button and the crease that lies above it.

When I was working on the Tailored Track Pants, I had similar issues and tried to self diagnose.   I did a full belly adjustment that bled over into other adjustments that led into still others.  At that point in the tailoring rabbit hole, White Rabbit hopped by and offered me a bottle of wine and said quit while you are behind and make something else.

So my lovelies, you have seen me in all my glory ... tomorrow, this pattern gets the Trudy treatment. Stay tuned!

Sewing in the Sun 2019 - The prequel.

A year ago, my friends Trudy and Jeremy over at Hot Patterns designs offered an extended weekend of sewing IN FLORIDA and aptly called in Sewing in the Sun.  I was swamped in deadlines at ork and could notn make it, but immediately added it to the budget and calendar ont he off chance it would be re-offered in 2019. After all, a weekend in JANUARY in warm and sunny Florida or stay at home in near zero (F) temperatures in Canada .... really, is there a choice?

When the 2019 event was posted as a pant fitting session, I jumped at the chance to get in on the action!  I booked myself in and put that budget to work! As this will involve fittings and photos and notes, I am going to summarize my thoughts at night and present my weekend immersion in pant fitting.

First off - the patterns.  The designs chosen by Herself (Trudy) for the weekend were two that were sitting and aging in my stash. While I do not mind fitting pants, I am not an expert by any means, and am never quite satisfied with the results. Mostly because I am never satisifed with the body shape wearing them, I suspect (but that is a whole other blog series, I suspect).  The two patterns were never sewn up because they intimidated the hell out of me. Both are intended for stretch fabrics and are close fitting. While I have sewn knit pants and stretch woven pants, the narrow pant and design scared me away as I felt it would show all the lumps and bumps unless I modified them so as to be a looser pant. Which defeats the purpose of the design.

So, I went shopping with the Senior (she who used to be called the Diva, but outgrew that stage and is now in her senior year at HS). She forced me into narrower styles and advised that she "would happily be seen in public with me if I wore them". High praise indeed!  So, fear hurdle jumped. No excuses.

Here are the patterns and my impressions:
HP 1127 Tummy Taming Trousers - a stretch woven, high waisted narrow pant with optional ankle crop length and CB zipper

• Narrow pant - see para above. No excuses.
• High waist is a new style on me. I tend to feel like I am short waisted, so this could be a fit challenge. BUT no excuses  - Pam Erny, respected sewer and interfacing goddess supreme loves hers and she decreased that height and still kept the look. So, no excuses.
• CB zippers and I have a love/hate relationship.  I have a hollow type back/sway back (not sure the difference) and a curvy bottom, so invisible zips that could split are not my fave.  BUT those are fit challenges that I can overcome. So no excuses.
• Stretch woven is a godsend for an office worker who sits most of the day. AND I have stash bought just for these at the time. No excuses.

HP 1227 Miracle Pant - a narrower knit pant with flat front but elasticated waist with an internal elastic application that eliminates the sweatpant look.

• Narrow pant (insert broken record soundtrack here, LOL!)
• Elastic waist with flat front - means I can wear to work in the biz casual office with a jacket
• Ponte pants mean ultimate comfort - why not???

The task before arrival was to cut out a muslin of each pant, using a woven, fitting close to the body.  And bring fabric.  So I did. I am sitting now, typing in my hotel room in Florida. I left snow squalls and plummeting windshills today and am now sitting in capris and a tshirt.  About to go get some sun. :) More about muslins in the second post.

Spadina musings

Now that I have the garments chosen, I need to finalize fabrics and patterns.  I did some block draping with two knit prints that will be tops and the two skirt fabric options.

Tops - Pucci print and a silk jersey paisley

Skirt - wool grab and lightly felted wool

I also draped the Pucci as a wrap style dress.  I live the colours, it is most definitely my colour path, but am worrying the print will wear me rather than the reverse if I do this in a wrap.  I have never worn a large scale print like this full body.  Huge leap here...

Trilogy part 2- the Tunic

I realized that this is posted out of order...  this was supposed to post BEFORE the Spadina Collection post.  I published the wrong draft first ... sorry!

I am not sure about tunics on me and my shape.  As I am somewhat curvy, they tend to look chunky on me.  I am also not one for belts as I find them uncomfrotable when sitting at a desk.  But that could also be a posture issue.  I think the length hits me wrong as well.  Believe it or not,there is a waistline in there.

For this one I used a wool challis in a wonderful paisley print that will go with denim or wool suiting.  Love it to death!  What I did not realize is that not all challis behave the same.  The Trilogy calls for RAYON challis.  Different drape all together.  Still nice but not tunic drapey, if that makes sense.  Will have to think hard about which pattern I choose for the rest of the fabric.

This might have been better for the bias version...

Spadina Collection

I have given up in the HP Trilogy pattern... but only because fall has arrived in Ottawa and I am cold.  So, the bias version and the top are delay until either spring or a trip south.   On the upside, the question of proportion has been solved.  I belted the challis the tunic length and bloused it to the top length.  Eureka! So, one day when I REALLY want to wear it this winter, I will pull the side seams and chop her down in length!  It will work well with the SWAP (Sewing with a Plan) I sort of have in mind.  The paisley colouring will go well with the bottoms planned and already completed.

I am calling this capsule the Spadina Collection.  It was inspired by my wonderful visit with MaryBeth and Els in Toronto a few years back.  We spent the day wandering the Garent District.  I was in seach for a fabric to coordinate with a piece of wool boucle I bought at Darrell's.  I was looking for burgundy, but was convinced to go WAY outside my comfort zone and try a deep lilac/mauve colour instead.  I have spent the intervening years avoiding the cloth.  Now that I am working in a professional office, I needed to get at it!

The jacket has been progressing, but I am taking my time here.  I have spent time on this one, adding a canvas mount, interfcing the boucle and adding organza interlining and padstitching.  It is my skils project.  Before I put the sleeves in, I need to decide on the lapels.  They are quite wide, very on the 70s trend right now, and I think I can pull it off as I am not a small woman.  I just don't want to date the jacket.  I want it to stay classic.  SO, before I put sleeves in and add the lining, I need to decide.  What do you think? The sleeves will be the same blue as the peplum and lapel.

The shift dress peeking out from underneath is the fabric from Toronto.  It is ready for sleeves and neck facing and hemming. The stalling point is that I have decided it needs a lining.  That means I have to go back to the cutting board and cut the dress out again.  As my sewing time is limited, I need a day to to that and then sew it.  I am very happy with the fit after some tweaking and consistant excerise.

I have enough of the wool gab from the dress to make either a top or a skirt. Decisions, decisions... am leaning towards the top for versatility.  The fact that I have some luscious Pucci knit that will coordinate is one of the things pushing me to a skirt.  I do have other top options to go with said skirt, though.  So maybe it will become a skirt.

The real battle in my head is where to go next.  I am in SUCH a need for
office wear that I do not know where to logically start!  I am not sewing many TNT patterns as most of those are not fitting or are too casual.  so quick question ... do I START WITH THE BOTTOMS (PANTS) or do I start a marathon of tops and then move on to the pant marathon?  Is it better to sew outfits or or pieces?  How do I stop overthinking this??  If I was shopping, I would buy outfits.  Logic says I should start there.  So, a simple bottom and a couple of tops.  To stay with the thread on the machines I will do the pencil skirt and the Pucci print, then perhaps a button up in a classic stripe. Then move on to a pair of pants.

Pucci print

This where I will start.  I have been trying to determine what pattern will suit this lovely.  Was thinking dress, but now that the weather is cooling off, it will be a top with enough for a flirty skirt come warmer weather.  I think I even know where I am going to start pattern wise!

Tale of the Trilogy - Part 1

After a raft of fit disasters on previous projects, I have been avoiding my sewing room and sulking.  My hour glass silhouette has turned more pear shape in profile resulting in some major body image issues.   This then led to changing how I sewed and resulted in the aforementioned disasters.  I went back to basics - starting with size.

I think I was sewing too big on my last few attempts.  I think I was so bothered by my weight gain that I was sewing his I felt, not how I actually looked and measured.  Going back to almost a sloper was just what I needed.  Guess I have not gained as much as I thought... Either that or it is actually starting to come off due to a change in eating habits and going for long walks.

Too hot to garden and fighting a headache Saturday... Excellent day to devote to sewing!  Two pattern muslins cut for Hot Patterns latest release the Fast and Fabulous Trilogy Shift dress tunic top.  A basic pull on shift dress, it comes in three lengths - top (at low hip length), tunic and dress length.  Due to the above, I was a bit hesitant to order this as I did not want another garment that did not suit.  After chatting with Trudy, I decided to take a chance as there is more shaping than in the pattern picture.  For the hourglass silhouette that turns to a pear profile, This dress is a great fit!  There is very little shaping on the sides and CB but none at CF.  That was a concern as I do not like tents except to sleep in!

Muslin #1 - Cut out the top only (without the added length) as this was purely for a baseline fit.  Cut a size 14 without alterations first to see what was really needed.  The fit was pretty damned close.  The only change to the base pattern was to add some shaping to the CF from under the bustline to the waist.

Body of the top without the length extension; no added shaping or seam allowance; straight 14

As you can see there are some drag lines in the high hip area even though the Side seams are hanging straight.  I thought I would have to blend to a 16 below the waist.

Muslin #2 is a rayon batik in the full dress length.  The sides have the extra width and I have increased the shaping at CB as well to cover off a hollow back.  This fabric was a gift from dear friend MaryBeth a number of years ago.  This fabric was reclaimed from the very aging stash of the Diva.

This turned out to be wearable ... maybe not to work as this is quite lightweight fabric, but a runabout dress all the same.  I have yet to hem it and I did end up doing 5/8" s.a. vice the 3/8".  In hindsight, I could do the 14 without blending to the 16.  The Pilot suggested more shaping at the waist but if I do any more I will have to add a zipper to take it on and off. Not something I want in this version.

Size 14 w/shaped seams

To appease the Pilot, I took some fabric remnants and mocked up a self fabric belt.  I like that look much better.  I may add some loops to the side seams once I finish the belt. This version still needs to be hemmed so it will be shorter by about 1" all around.  It hits me at mid calf.  Not sure if I like that length on me.  Once it is hemmed and the belt is done I will post a final shot of me wearing it.  The Pilot liked it and The Diva did not veto it.  I guess it is a keeper!

Self fabric belt option after taking in seams to 5/8"

Version 3 will be a knit version.  I have some luscious Pucci knits to choose from.  It will definitely be the 14 with 5/8" seams and more shaping.  Then I have to decide on fabrics for the tunic length and the top.  After all, it is the Trilogy pattern!


Still considering the bias cut version for fun... That will be another start from scratch muslin attempt.  After seeing the shaping, though, it would have to be the tunic and not the dress.

Many Happy Returns

I have a love hate relationship with blogging.  Before I Went back to work full time, I sewed A LOT for my kids and did casual wear for me and the Pilot.  Blogging allowed me to do detailed reviews of the projects in a forum that I could link back to in a couple of sewing sites I frequented.  As I got busier with volunteering and working part time, I found I wanted more to sew and less to write.  I wanted to maximize my time available to me but mainly I realized that I was writing more for me and not for anybody else.  Therefore my notes to self can be written in a book on PAPER with a pen if needed. It is not like I am famous, or have clients that follow me religiously, so I stopped blogging.  As I changed to full time work and even more full time volunteering, I discovered that I really had no desire to sit and write about my sewing.  I stopped writing reviews and just plodded along when I was able to sew.  To get that community feel I used to have online, I joined a few select FB groups.  For quick one offs of posting a project or a question, that served me fine.

What has not changed is that I am still not famous and don't have a huge following.  Not sure I want one, to be honest.  I have a few select friends and followers that I know will read and may or may not comment.  Maybe more will show up (especially if I link to said FB groups).  Who knows?  What I do know is that I am no longer volunteering.  It was becoming to stressful as I could never figure out how to stay on the sidelines and not go all in.  So, this year, I am out.  Of it all.  My nights for me and the occasional work session when required.  I. Can. Sew!!!  I can attack my stash of fabrics that I have acquired thanks to my dear friend's store (Darrell Thomas Textiles).  I am determined to make myself that work wardrobe that I have been dreaming and chatting about for years.

While I do have that nice wool boucle jacket still on the table, most of the hand work on the bodice has been completed.  Now it is stalled at the facings.  I have to be in a good place to do collars, cuffs, closures and waistbands or things go wrong fast.  So I am plodding on that one, but have started a faster one - the HP Fast & Furious Four Seasons Kimono Jacket to get me into the swing of things.

I started with this for a couple of reasons.  We are into late summer here in the Capital, which means any weather goes, but it usually muggy.  I am in a new building at work with a much more reliable HVAC system and sit in front of a window.  I figured this could be perfect for coolish mornings and AC in the office.  I also wanted to use up some lovely linen I bought from Darrell.  I think this was through one of his charity sales, cannot remember.  It also coords nicely with the print I recently used for two other recent projects (a top and a dress) as well as other extant wardrobe pieces.  Three Pieces.  Cannot get much faster than that.

This is where the blog comes into play - I am not sure if I like the pattern ON ME or not.  So, rather than focus on the FB groups where there are HUNDREDS of viewers who will gladly opine, I am going to focus my thoughts here and then see what/who pops up to give added value to my projects.  Blogging is more of a conversation than FB can be.  Especially for sewers.  Will this turn back into a full recital of everything I do and each detailed step I take?  No.  There are others far more skilled than I taking up your blog time.  I want to chat about the projects that mean something to me at the time of construction and get some feedback/encouragement when needed.

It goes together quite easily and I like the shaping the vertical darts give the pattern.  The facing being top stitched down gives a sporting look and could be switched up by doing an external facing with piping easily.  Lots of play room.  I tossed this together very easily, forgoing the bound seamlines and serging instead as this was intended to be a semi casual topper.  What is not to like?  I received lots of "Likes" on FB when I posted the pics today - both on me and on Mindy (my dressform) and received nice comments.  The thing is, I am not sure about the style on my frame.  I am not sure if it because I added some extra to the sides just in case (I am fluctuating on my weight distribution again, going the right way this time) or if it was the fabric or the sleeve cut.  This is where I think my blog will help.

I wore the jacket to work and discovered two things that I need to do for the next version.  Sucker that I am, I am planning another one in a firmer fabric, with mods added and some held in reserve in case I still feel iffy about it on me.  First of all - for those who have a curvy shape, ADD BELT LOOPS.  Or stitch the belt to the s.s..  Otherwise it rides up or feels too lose.  Having a loose belt leads to the front opening, which I don't like under a belt.  So, I am adding buttons.  Probably only three (if I can find the match in the button box to that perfect button that jumped at me this morning at 7 am).

Here are the two shots I posted.  The green is not as light as pastel as shown here.  Blame poor lighting in the workshop.  It is the shape that I am unsure of.  I think this style does not do me any favours, although I seriously think fabric had something to do with it?

What do you think?

Mindy wearing the jacket.

Here is a "Seflie" of the jacket.  Again, sorry for the lighting.

Banana Peels and Patterns

The Banana Story
Two summers ago I made a quick LBD for the funeral of my MIL.  I used Vogue 1100 and used a beautiful Armani wool from my dear friend, Darrell (Darrell Thomas Textiles.).  The dress went together extremley easy, with the standard FBA and some extra at the SS for a fuller skirt.  Later that year, while looking for a dress for Christmas I fell in love with a dress at Banana Republic.  I felt I could easily knock it off.  It had a slight Aline skirt with a banded waist in a wool look fabric and a satin bodice that had a twist located on the bias not the horizontal line.

I duly traced my trust Vogue 1100 and then hacked and slashed until I achieved the look I wanted.   Bodice Muslin #1 was OK, but needed work.  Bodice Muslin #2 worked better as I used a poly fabric that was slightly heavier than the charmeuse I had planned for.  I still did not like the results.  Too lightweight without going through the hassles of interfacing or interlining.  This Banana dress was starting to wear on my nerves. Enough slipping on the banana peel.  I gave up on the knock off bodice style and went back to the original pattern design and used the charmeuse.  The pattern recommended the fabric, so I felt confident it would work out.  I morphed on a sleeve from a pattern I like and have used before and then cut and basted away.  This is where I think the spirit of the Banana was haunting me.  I did not like the pleating in the silk, it did not seem to lie right, so I converted to soft gathers.  I kept in the bust dart and then added the skirt and waist band (made from a coord slubbed silk remnant from one of Darrell's Cat Rescue sales).  Put the dress on the form and almost cried.  It was that awful.

Overnight it sat and then I woke up, inspired by a new show on TLC (Something Borrowed Something New).  The premise is that a bride has to choose between a new RTW gown or a reworked and redesigned version of her mother's gown.  While watching rugby with the Pilot, I sat and ripped seams.  I peeled that Banana apart and started over.

The Aline skirt is now cut into the HP Moneypenny Trumpet Skirt. Knowing and accepting that I have added to my waistline and hips, I duly added to the seamlines.  This afternoon I will finish the edges, baste front and for fit and then draft a waist facing (will try to use the Banana Band).  Once I add the lining, voila - new skirt!

The bodice is a right off.  Using a silk charmeuse for a top did not work, IMO.  The fabric is too soft and looked way to pouffy on my body.  The tailored look of the Armani is what I wanted.  And the silk was not going to give me that.  An expensive lesson to learn as there is not enough in the leftovers to toss together anything except maybe a scarf..

Patterns
When I was working on this project, seeing it sink deeper into oblivion, my confidence in my skills and in my desire to continue plummeted.  I looked back over the past few years of sewing and realized that I have been progressing further into laziness.  As I revelled in the fact that there are patterns out there are that are designed on a sloper that is almost me, I stopped adjusting for me.

As I pulled out one of my Palmer Pletsch books, a slip of paper fell out.  It was from my first fit seminar, back almost 20 years ago in Halifax, when Patti introduced me to FBA's, broad and high round backs and forward shoulders.  All adjustment I needed and that she diagrammed out for me on a bodice sloper picture.  I cannot remember the last time that I performed any of those back adjustments.  Good enough had become my philosophy, but deep down I knew good enough was not sufficient to cut into the wools and silk suitings in the stash, let alone the Chanel sitting there.  working with the silk remnants made me want to work with the aging stash.  It is calling to me.  Remembering the weeks of fitting and adjusting it took to perfect the dupioni cocktail dress, the fun I had in the process.  I want that feeling back.

This all started because I needed clothes for a new job and had little time to sew what I wanted.  So I accepted RTW and good enough.  Not anymore.  I am worth more than good enough.  If I can't give 100% effort to myself, then who should I be giving it to?

I am going downstairs to ponder patterns for a new top to go with the skirt.  The one I was thinking of using I am going to toss.  It was a compromise that I am no longer willing to make.  Then I am going to work to the level of my ability and push beyond.  Because I. Am. Worth. It.

Happy Returns

Thanks for hanging in there over the past week of silence!  We got back into town two nights ago and are still catching up on sleep lost due to time zone shift and then there is the catch up at work after a week's unexpected absence.

First off, I DID manage to exercise while away. I took my TRX for self inflicted torture and set it up in the walk out under the BIL's back deck.  Nice and cool in the shade and those floor joists were definitely sturdy enough!  Top that off with an hour long brisk hike in the hills with the Pilot in tow and  making really good choices for food, I think I did great considering I had almost no control over where we ate and when!  What did you do over the past week?

The dress was finished onsite.  I had to finish hand stitching the hem and the lining to the zipper once I arrifved, but really that only took about 30 minutes to do while listening to all the chater going on around us.  I used Vogue 1100 and some wonderful stretch wool crepe from Darrell.  Lots of complements on the dress.  It was classy with a modern twist with the neckline treatment.  The fabric made all the difference in this one.  The wool didn't wrinkle, it was a perfect weight and the lycra made motion easier.  Unlike some reviewers, I didn't have any armhole issues, but that could be due to the FBA I always do changing the curveof the armhole.  I also adjusted the vertical pleats, lengthening them as well as widening them for a closer fit and shortened the V opening.  A funeral is not the place to flash the twins, especially when one is doing a reading at the Mass!

Having made this in wool, I do not think I would make it in charmeuse (which is the original reason for buying the pattern).  I think the fabric would be too light for the fit of the pattern and I don't think it would move as well on me, anyway.  It has been done by another reviewer who had great success, but for me, this is now my LBD.  Ellen would be proud of the handwork and that I honoured her by sewing the dress.

I have some of the wool left as I had bought enough to do a princess seamed dress.  Now I have to decide if I want to do a skirt or if I have enough to do a jacket to go with the LBD.  I don't think I have enough for a jacket, (and that would be too much black I think) but maybe I can make a snazzy vest/waistcoat?  Hmm .... time to go browsing for pattern ideas!

Daily Dose of Diva - Part 3

Just a short post today ...it was PJ bottoms day.  She decided to do shorts for summer out of another batik from MaryBeth.  She loves how soft it is!  The top will come later on, I think.  Tomorrow is her last day at camp, but not the last day sewing.  This was a great opportunity for her.  If she wants, I may sign her up for some of the weekend classes in the winter if Darrell runs any follow ups (like maybe a jeans course to go with all that great denim you have in stock???  What do you think about that idea, Darrell!  Great for the teens and tweens!).

It was TRX torture day.  It is getting easier each week.  The muscle memory is coming back.  I am able to do more for longer now on some of the harder moves.  I would be better if I did more at home with my own TRX, though.

The dress is ready to put together.  The lining is done as is the dress.  Tomorrow I have to finish.  I have run out of time.  I may leave the neckband off for expediency at this point.  Will see how things progress tomorrow.  I have only a half day of work, so I will be able to do more when I get home.  I also have to add a modesty panel to a tunic that was given to the Diva by a friend.  She can't wear it as is at this point.

I know that I just stated posting again, but I am giving fair warning that I may be intermittant over the next week.  We are going out of town as of Saturday for at least a week. I am unsure of what access I will have.

Stay sewing and start exercising ... See you soon.

Dose of Diva ... Part 2

First of all, a correction.  Last post I said I was pre-treating a wool gab. I mis-spoke.  It is a dress weight stretch wool crepe.  It is in the dryer now as my bed was too comfy this morning to get up early enough to toss it in.  I should be able to get at it to cut tonight as it is still early.

Now for the Daily Dose of Diva Part 2!

Diva finished her lined tote bag today.  There are two more pockets inside.  It looks great!  MB, you would approve of the use of the batik and LOVE the slightly heavier cotton she lined it with!  Today's project was a simple bib apron with a bound edge.  Nothing unusual except hat it was an exercise in patience and careful pinning and top stitching as she bound the entire edge and extended the edge into the ties and the neckband.  She did really well for all that!  Nice straight stitching and a cute little apron.  More of the batik gone, MB!  Tomorrow she is starting her PJ's in another cotton batik!  You, MB are a partner in her camp happiness this week.  Which is just what we need at this point.  Some good memories to look back on.  She is unsure if she wants to have pics taken or not, so I leave it to her.

Exercise - the bike ride was cancelled due to thunderstorms and the pressing need to get the dress done.  There is a function in the near future that I need it for, so I have some time issues to meet.  Tomorrow is TRX Thursday.  I will head to the Rec Centre a bit early and hit the treadmill for a bit prior to the class.  That will help me make up for today.
Friday's lunch will be a challenge menu wise.  We always bring in lunch on Friday's.  How to maintain the tradition without always going for salad?  The menu is Lebanese/Mediterranean, so I think I will try a tabouleh salad or something new like that.  I know I will like the shawarma and other meats, but I want to be a bit adventurous and healthy at the same time.

Short post tonight, life is progressing fast, so I need to get back at it!

Dose of Diva ... Part 1

First of all, exercise update:  Last week I accomplished my 3 one hour workouts.  Tuesday's was a brisk one hour walk with the Pilot.  Wednesday was a one hour bike ride of the walking route (done twice) with the Diva. Thursday was TRX torture Day.  Today, the Pilot and I walked a new route for another hour.  Tomorrow the Diva has already reminded me of the bike ride.  Then on to TRX again.  What have you done this week?

Now to the main topic - the daily dose of Draping Diva!  Welcome to the first in a 4 part series starring the Draping Diva herself!

Here is a photo of the Diva herself modelling the jean jacket she made last fall. She practiced slow sewing to the point of it almost becomming a UFO! By the time she finished it, the "jacket" had shortened into a crop style w/ 3/4 length sleeves! She is doing her best Charlie's Angel pose with one of the Pilot's toys.

Today she attended the first day of a Sewing Camp at store owned by my dear friend Darrell Thomas. 
Background - Since Darrell left Bank Street and moved to Little Italy, he has gained more space and added a dedicated classroom.  To that end, he decided to run a sewing camp over 4 days.  4 days of learning to sew.  What is not to love for a Junior Draping Diva?  Especially since she was gifted with some BEAUTIFUL batiks from my other dear friend MaryBeth when we met up in Toronto last month.  She now has a sewing machine of her own (My mother's old Singer), a small stash and now she has a sewing box with tools!  I decided that we will start building her "Hope Chest" with the sewing tools first! So, on the weekend we went to Darrell's and bought her the essentials so that we no longer have to share.

DAY 1 - She is the youngest in the camp by about 4 years.  The age ranges from her all the way up to the lone male university student.  The experience varies from her minimal experience to others that have none to some with more.  4 hours of sewing instruction.  What is not to love?

First project is a lined tote bag.  She had to measure, mark then cut and stitch.  She is so excited as she assembled the two side panels, two lined pockets, and the straps in class.  She came home and then finished the top stitching ont he straps even though it wasn't homework.  She was so excited that the machines at Darrell's are the same as Mine that she promptly asked if she can "practice" on my machine ... yup.  I sense a trend towards time sharing here ... Of course, this could be justification for a new machine for me :)  (I would be perfectly OK with delegating the Singer to buttonhole duty now that I have the proper attachments ... but I digress.  Back to Diva).  She is setting her alarm to get up in the summer.  To sew.  HOW COOL IS THAT??????

Tomorrow they finish the bag and then start building an apron that has bias binding (purchased for this time) then progress on to PJs on Thursday (really cool kimono style top to this Burda Kids pattern).

Projects attempted since last post: The Little Black Dress project
1. Neue Mode 22774 (no link found at this point, I may post pic, I may not see previous post) a princess sheath dress with a sweetheart neckline with a shaped front yoke inset
Status - on hold; it needs more fitting than I have time for.  All those body changes have made my TNT adjustments to be Terrible and Terrifying!  So, it is shelved for now until I have more time to get real finicky with it.
2. Vogue 1100 (the dress)
Status - in progress.  The muslin came out OK, the lining is cut and and basic fitting is complete. It is tweak time.  I need to add the vertical darts in (adding extra in the midriff area to shape the extra from the upper and lower adjustments).  Tomorrow is the final work on the lining.  Tomorrow before work I am preshrinking using the method from the blog Off the Cuff and then tomorrow night I will finish the lining and be (hopefully) able to cut the wool gab.

Tonight I took the night off as I was sewing late last night and the walk was later than planned.  Tomorrow I will get more done.

See you all tomorrow!  Remember ... get out and DO something so that you can SEW something!  Get the family involved ... who wouldn't love a guaranteed hour long walk with the Spouse/Partner twice a week?  I know, I have the luxury of built in childcare now that Rugby Boy is old enough, but you can get creative.  Swap walk times with a neighbour or fellow parent.  Get a rotating playgroup going where two or three sets of kids play while one of you goes for a run/walk.  Trade off works!

The Tide Needs to Turn

I am back from oblivion again. I know I promised pics of projects past. I have come to terms with the fact that sewing was losing it's fun factor. Taking photos at each important step for a review that I was making myself write and then post was taking too much of my time. So, those pics are not happening any time soon. I will discuss patterns as I would chat with you across my table as we shared either a glass or a cup (the contents of which will depend highly upon whether or not I like the project we are discussing)!

I am too busy to do more. Since December last, I switched to a full time job but did not slow down on my other commitments. My sewing time is limited and precious to me. I want to maximize machine time when I can.

The biggest competition for my time right now is me. I have, over the past year put back on the inches and pounds I had lost. I let work and family become an excuse to not take care of me. The result is that the Doc has told me to drop 20-30 pounds. So, that means one hour of exercise a minimim of four times a week. So, the Pilot's workout needs don't mqtch mine so we need to do them mostly apart. Last night was a one hour brisk walk. Next time we take the uphill route as our first one was too easy. Tonight Diva and I did the same route TWICE on our bikes. She wants to do it each week. Tomorrow night I take a TRX class at a city gym. Google that if you want a new and challenging work out!! My goal is to exercise in the week ans then I can sew on the weekends.

The tide has started to turn. I am charting a new course. Does anybody want to join me? I am going to try to do short posts each night with my workouts ...
Let me know if you are going to join my journey. We can swim together.

Draping Diva!

That is her new name!  Monkey Girl is now the Draping Diva.  Three times since the last post I have gone down into the Sewing Room and found a length of fabric (usually my bamboo) wrapped, pleated and pinned in place on Mindy.  Don't know when she does it, although I suspect it is done when I think she is watching TV or playing on the family Wii.  Sometimes there is a note pinned to Mindy asking if she can use the fabric for her design (THAT WAS FOR THE OFF LIMITS BAMBOO!) or she then will join me and ask if the design is something she can wear.  Now seeing as she is draping on a form that is my size and bust and that she has not yet shown her potential for needing fitting, it is hard to tell.  But she loves to play with the fabrics, so I let her do so.  I have warned her off certain fabrics as they do not survive random pinning and being left to hang on Mindy, especially when some of it inevitably ends up being on the bias!  I need to thank Darrell for this new talent of hers.  you see, he has numerous forms throughout his shop with fabric artistically draped to showcase the fabrics to their best potential.  She fell in love with the idea when we last visited.  Makes me want to hunt down a cheap form for her to play with until she grows into mine.  Christmas is coming ...

So design divas!  I need your help and I need it fast! I have an important meeting next week with an VP of a Bank.  I need something appropriate to wear ... I want to wear a dress if I can pull it off in the next week (so the Claire Schaeffer mock wrap couture pattern is out due to time).  I have some suiting intended for a shirtdress, but again, time is a factor.  So, it will have to be either a sheath or an empire style, unless I do a surplice knit.  I have this fabric from Darrell that I bought with the intention of using it for one of the HP Three Graces tops (the cowl was the preferred), but now I am thinking of it as a dress.  Simple in doing, but it is the fabric that worries me.

It is an bias printed argyle pattern in grey, blue and black with silver thread shot through. The cowl drapes nicely according to Draping diva and Mindya doesn't look too bad in it full length, the issue is whether I will.  I want to push my envelope a bit beyond the obvious argyle top or twin set, but is a dress really the way to go?  My figure is not the most willowy and I am now in my 40's, so age appropriate is important.  I do so want to leave a good impression ...

Idea #2 was to take the top with the cross over front (the Grecian one) and use black for the cross overs and the argyle for the cowl center piece, but that would take soem creative drafting of the pattern pieces to balance the bottom off.  This really appeals to me as it will be most unique but still not be too much argyle as it would only be on the cowl and the center front.  What fabric I would use on the back is open for debate: black or full argyle?  What say you?

Monkey Girl Jacket Update

This is a quick update on the progress of the current projects on the table.  The table currently has two jackets on the go, one is mine, the other belongs to Monkey Girl.  I have set up my Mom's old machine (now Moneky Girl's) on the table back to back with mine.  That way we can work at the same time on our jackets.  We are both using hte same thread colours right now, so that makes it easier for me to help her out.

As I believe in learning by doing, she is doing the majority of the work on her own.  She cut  and prepped the pattern while I cut the fabric (that is due to her height not being quite up to reaching across the table and me not wanting her touching the Kais!).  She pins the pieces together as she goes through the pattern, learning about how the pieces match up.  She then stitches them together (reminding herself to backstitch) and tried her best to keep the seam allowance as close to 5/8" as she can (there is a masking tape line on the machine for her to follow).  She now knows how to properly press the seams flat using my iron.  Yes, Darrell, she even uses the clapper!  The top stitching, button holes and collar I am doing for her but I think I will let her do the sleeve insertino as it is on the flat this time around.  She may even do the cuffs as well.  So far the bodice and the back is complete and stitched at the shoulders.  I have to do the topstitching there and then we are off to assemble the sleeves.  We have the collar and cuffs put together but not attached yet.  She has stitched, trimmed, pressed and turned and then pressed again.

She wants a navy blue topstich for a real subtle contrast to the black.  At least it would have been subtle had I not let her loose on Darrell's button wall last weekend!  My Monkey took one look at the variety and went for BLING!  Not just any bling, mind you, oh no, my darling diva went directly to the designer buttons!  Of course, I have to admit, Darrell did have a lot to do with it!  It was great fun as she tried the various buttons styles on her Wal Mart remnant fabric.  She loved the Fendi buttons and almost went for major crystals and rhinstone flowers until we had to reign her in with a reminder that this will still be worn on the playground.  Designer bling is too good for the playground.  That was a close call but very fun to watch!

The next thing she did was to head directly for Darrell's silk samples.  She fell in love with those from the first time in his shop.  After fondling those for a bit, she went over to the display of garment Darrell has on sale.  He chooses fabrics from his supply and then sews a number of his own designs as inspiration for his customer base.  This way we can visualize what a garment will look like in a certain fabric.  She fell in love with a couple of tops and proceeded to talk ME into buying one for her.  The drama that ensued as she tried the various sizes on was quite hilarious!  Darrell and I agree, there are some serious DIVA tendencies emerging in her personality!  Will she be the next generation Sewing Diva?  We will have to wait and see if she can bring her skill level up to THE Sewing Divas ... until then, I am not quite sure what to call her ... Monkey Girl is still there but there are occasional flashes of something bigger that I cannot quite identify.

One unforseen effect of teaching her how to sew, is that I have to reduce the directions to the most basic points.  In teaching her how to do a project like this one, there are few shortcuts.  Each step needs to be read , discussed and understood before we go on.  She sees how things are put together step by step.  This has slowed my sewing down somewhat, but I think that is a good thing for me.  I am now looking at the details again as I stop my sewing to help her with her next step.  I find myself explaining things to her.  It has brought me back to why I started to sew in the first place.  I like the construction of the garments.  I love taking flat fabric and turning into a 3Dimensional object.  I love that she sees what I see.  The potential in every piece of cloth ... expecially the silks, right Darrell?

changes ...

School is now in session for the kids.  Dino boy had minor stomach cramps last night; not sure if it was nerves, excitement or both.  I think it was the latter. You see, he started Jr High today.  Grade 7.  Wow.  Not only is he only one inch shorter than I am (YIKES HE IS ONLY 12), he is now at a combined jr/sr high.  He gets up with his father and goes out the door at almost the same time.  He will be home before anybody else in the afternoons.  He is growing up (literally!).  He is maturing in so many ways but still believes in embracing his inner child.  He still wants a toy for Christmas, even if it is a small one.  Just because it is Christmas and that needs a toy.  I think that this change needs a new name.  Dino Boy who used to grab his little dino toys and leave them in my bathtub or shower is no more.  In his place?  RUGBY GUY.  This is more appropriate now.  His new self confidence and height has earned him the new moniker, I think.

Monkey Girl is about to head off to school as well.  This is her first year without Rugby Guy at the same school.  She will be going alone now.  What that means is that I won't let her leave quite so early as there is no early supervision at the school without big brother along.  She is turning into a bit of a girlie girl, with her talk of clothes, earrings and her new summer obsession - nail polish. I like seeing these glimpses young woman she has the potential of becomming.  Monkey Girl will need to change soon, too, I think.  But not yet.  I am not quite ready for that.  Let me have my little girl for a little bit longer ... even if she is as proportionally as tall as her brother!

Labour Day Project

So, what are you doing this Labour Day?  As was my practice years ago, I spent it sewing.  Saturday I took off and went shopping with Monkey Girl.  We spend a lot of time discussing body image and fashion vs trends as we shop.  We try on everything just for the object lessons.  We try not to laugh too loudly at what we affectionately label "CALL CLINTON moments" after her favorite show "What Not To Wear".  I like these times together.  She is growing up so fast and so tall that I need to have these discussions more often as she is soon to be out of the little girl sizes ( a feat she reached in her shoe size already!).

I think I may have mentionned in one of my posts last year that I have my mother's original SINGER machine now.  We gave it to Monkey GIRL FOR Christmas last year with the promise that I would teach her to sew.  The majority of what she wants to sew are knit projects, which that machine will not handle well.  So, we are trying something different instead. She is making a jean style jacket.  We are doing it in tandem, meaning that we have two machines on the same table with both of us working on jacket patterns.  I am finishing a UFO (another HP project - the HP Sportive Skirt Suit Jacket).  Hers is KS 3136.  We are using a black peachskin fabric from Wal Mart for her first project. This is a great project for us to do together.  It has many smaller straight seams which will allow her to get used to the machine as well as pinning, pressing and stitching.  I have marked out the 5/8" seamline with masking tape on the machine bed, and am marking the seamline on the fabric for her as well. She cut and prepped the pattern on her own, and I cut the fabric and interfacing as required.  She sews the seams, we press together and then I top stitch for her.  We are lucky that we are both sewing the same colour fabric right now!

It is going really well!  Her first seam had to be ripstitched, as she wanted to try to stitch it without a line to follow.  She was a bit upset until I told her the story of my first Home Ec project do-over (the night before it was due in!).  She laughed and started to rip as she kept giggling!  We have the back assembled and have the fronts half done.  We are at the stage of putting the chest pockets on.  We will see how far we get tonight.  She won't be wearing it to school this week, anyway. I promised her a trip to the Button Wall of Fame at Darrell's so that she can choose the buttons.  Yup, the buttons will cost more than the jacket, but seeing the pride will be worth it!  It is a neat feeling, seeing her across the table working on a project at the same time.  Who says that sewing has to be solitary?

On my end, I have the body of the lining assembled, leaving the facings only to be attached.  I am working on assembling the body of the jacket as well.  I am using a black pinwhaled bamboo corduroy with an ambiance lining in a navy blue.  The skirt was completed before the sewing drought started and was the last actual project completed before the Big Sulk started.  I made this up in a cheap knit 3 years ago for an interview for the job I now have.  Now, I am getting around to making the actual as the cheapness of the muslin is now showing.  I took the rainbow zipper off the muslin and am using that in the jacket.  I was originally going to use a rhinestone zip but think I may use that in another project instead.

So, this Labour Day, I engaged in a Labour of Love.  I have started my 9 year old on a journey of sewing for herself.  The feeling I get in sharing my space with her is so deep that I cannot find the words.  I remember sitting at my mother's knee playing in the button box and wanting to sit on her lap and sew.  I can't remember ever doing that, but I always wanted to.  I played in her sewing room all the time when she worked on the various projects.  Now Monkey Girl gets to work with me.  As a new sewer emerges in the family, I am rediscovering the basics through the teaching process.  I am rediscovering the love of the build and the satisfaction of the final product.  May you all be so lucky as to be able to pass on your skills and love to a new generation ... I now know that my grandmother's thimble will be well loved and used by another young girl as she begins her wardrobe build!

Challenge Complete!

The dress is done and I even have photos ready to post!

The project was the HP Plain & Simple T SHIRT DRESS (See here for pattern link) (not to be confused with the P&S Shirt Dress of a previous pattern release!). I chose it as it was an easy style to make and wear for Sunday Mass or for those days when I just don't want to wear pants.  This should have been an easy project as it is basically a longer version of a Polo shirt with a hidden button placket with the addition of a self tie belt.  Designed for good quality knits, it ws perfect for a stash project as I have a good supply on hand.

HP designs are not for the beginner.  Trudy has said that from the day she launched her line.  She assumes a certain amount of knowledge in her sewer.  I am not a beginner.  I would say that at my peak two years ago, I was close to being advanced, and had I not stopped sewing, I would have gotten there (and will get there)with the completion of that tailored blazer I started with Darrell.  Rebooting a lapsed sewing brain with a hidden placket on a pattern that has minimal instructions and drawings was probably not my best choice.  In the spirit of full disclosure, I will admit that the hidden placekt part of the patten really didn't register until I was too forgone in the cutting to stop.  It was at that point that I started the book searches and the internet searches to try to find help.  The first incarnation of the placket had me following the directions, but I must have missed something.  The placket did not lie flat.  It could have been something as simple as me using a knit that was a bit too bulky when layered three times.  Maybe I missed a step somewhere.  After all, I have made so many of these tops, that I confess I really didn't give that in depth of a look at the instructions.... ahem.  yup.  got cured of that real quick on this project!

So, I recut the bodice out of the remaining fabric and started over.  I thought that I could modify David P Coffin's placket design to include a hiddne placket and use that method instead.  Works in theory and in the paper mock up.  Once put into practice, however, there was just too much fabric at the bottom of the placket.  I just didn't like it.  So, I tossed the whole thing in the fabric scrap bin and went to bed.  I do my best redesign work as I am in bed at night while the Pilot is snoring.

Inspiration struck two nights later. I went downstairs and grabbed the pieces and scraps and cut out the offending placket.  I cut it on the line where a shoulder princess seam would lie (or thereabouts) and took it down below the placket bottom.  I then took some black fabric and pinned it in as a cowl neck inset.  I liked it a lot!  Then I thought the black migh tbe a bit too dark for late summer early fall, so I grabbed some scraps of the original fabric and played.  I took the piece I cut out and laid it in half on it's CF.  Then I traced the bottom of it and then rotated the piece to the left to allow for the cowl neck.  There is my new pattern piece.  I cut it out and then added it in.  Love it!  It does not have as much cowl as the original drape and the inset is also a bit wider, but I am happy with it all the same.  Rather than tying the belt, I found a belt buckle that matches colour wise and simply thread it through.  I may eventually sew the buckle on and shorten it.  For now, I like the way it lies flat on a body that is not so flat anymore.  I did have to take the dress in a bit on the side seams, but that is because I added some in the cutting phase "just in case".  The only thing I haven't improved on yet, but plan on doing, is to shape the CB seam below the yoke.  It is straight.  I am not.  It needs some shaping to rid me of the extra fabric at the back.

So, here it is.  The inset could have been a tad bit wider to allow for the twins as I see some stretching there, but that can be eliminated by wearing a different bra as well.  There is too much fluff at the hips (both on me and the dress) so I think any future renditions will need a bit more flare at that point to make it more flattering.  Will I sew this again?  Maybe.  I may try a different pattern version as I have one in an older WOF mag that I haven't tried.  I am trying to use as many new patterns in the stash as I can for now.  I may just use one of my TNT polo patterns instead and add a more A Line skirt to it. Will have to wait and see!

Sorry for the photo layout, I am still getting used to the laptop buttons and the lack of a mouse.  Give me time ....  My collarless version of the P&S T Shirt Dress:

When Life Gives you Lemons ...

I am well on my way with my last challenge assignment.  The task was to make a simple dress.  Despite having meetings and back to school shopping and starting Monkey Girl on her project, I have managed to get a dress cut out.  This is where the lemons come in.

As I have a stash of Sophia knits, I wanted to get through those for easy fall sewing projects.  That was why they were bought after all (almost 2 years ago, sigh!).  I chose a simple T shirt type dress from Hot Patterns.  Yes, I LOVE Trudy's designs.  Not all of them are to my personal taste, but she manages to get current trends as well as the classics into her line.  The other main reason is that her sloper is NOT Twiggy or a look alike.  Her slopers are built on her.  She has a shape that is full figured, has hips and a real life bustline!  So, there is not much fitting in her lines for somebody like me.  So, when I want an easy project I usually pick one ofher patterns.

The pattern is a simple polo style shirt dress with a rugby style hidden button front placket.  Easy peasy, right?  Warning: here be lemons... As Trudy assumes a level of sewing knowledge and experience, her instructions are very basic.  Usually I do not have a problem with this as I have enough time behind my machine that I can figure most things out or research them online if need be.  That being said, I have never done a hidden button placket on a center front application that wasn't a shirt.  So, a new skill, I thought.  I read the instructions briefly and didn't see anything that surprised me and visually I thought I had it made.  Then I cut it out and started to assemble.   This is where things started to go sour.  The pattern calls for you to cut the CF section BEFORE you apply the placket and then flip and stitch.  The placket is two pieces and it just didn't lie right.  (more details when the project is finished when I do the full review).  So, being short on patience and being long on fabric, I cut out a second front piece and then tried to fashion my own placket based on David P. Coffin's CF Placket design, but incorporatingt a hidden placket.  The mock up of the ploacket went great, but once it was sewn into the second bodice front, there was too much fabric for it to lie flat.  I had done something wrong again.  By this time, the CF had been cut to allow the placket insertion and I was out of fabric for a new front.

This is where two nights sleep and many a thought about how I REALLY wanted that dress and how I did NOT want to start completely over led to the lemonade.  The front bodice is a single piece.  I am using a solid colour.  Can I remove the aggravating CF opening portion and insert a coord colour piece to add a design element?  I searched the stash and found a basic black that obviusly will go with the basic dark blue of the dress.  Then I took some chalk and started to draw lines from the shoulder, extending down around the horrible part.  Then I took some black SEAMS GREAT and pinned it in place to get a feel for the lines.  Liking what I saw, I grabbes the black and started to pin a length down.  The way it was lying, it had a CF cowl shape to it.  I kind of like it.  I added the self belt to the dress form and am now thinking overnight about it.  I always wanted to try draping .... maybe this is an opportunity to ease myself in by draping the cowl!  So, I left it pinned for now and will think on it some more.  I also want to check out some of the prints I have in the stash.  This might be a great way to incorporate some shorter lengths of woven prints to give a "fooler" type look to it.  If I have enough, I may even add a faux cuff to the 3/4 length sleeve.

I know there are no pics, but I want to leavethis up to your imaginations!  I have taken some, but will leave them for the final pattern review.  There is only one review online that I have found, so I am going to post mine when the dress is complete.  That reviewer also had some problems with the placket, but she managed to pull it off.  So, just as a teaser, here is the pattern:  HP 1013 Plain and Simple Iconic Shirtdress and here is the link to that review:Heatherrique Review on Pattern Review.com.

Stay tuned ... I love a challenge and I do have the challenge deadline, plus one more evening meeting and Dino Boy still needs new jeans and sneakers for his first year in Junior High and we are going away for the long weekend.  ThinK I can pull it off AND get Monkey Girl's jean jacket cut out?  Not unless I live on caffeine and don't sleep!  Wait and see what happens this week!  any chance of an extension, Darrell???  :)

Photos!

So, the first shots are of the pre-challenge garments to show that I actually did sew something! The shots are not the best, but I can't find the tripod and the Pilot is already in bed for the night, so you have just me! SO, remember, the angle is wonky and the lighting not the best ...

First up is a redux of a DKNY shirt that I made into a knit top by leaving off the collar/band and the cuffs. I also shortened the sleeves. The pattern is an OOP Vogue DKNY 2742. It is a loose fitting knot front shirt. By using a smaller size and a knit I was able to use the Rayon knit in the stash quite nicely. I used a slightly lighter thread to have some visual interest in the hems.

Next up is the semi self drafted wrap dress.  I used a simple wrap style raglan sleeve top as a basis and then made the fronts a bit narrower.  The original pattern has the wrap stitched into the side seams.  The fabric is a pure poly silk weight knit bought years ago as part of a Fabricmart bundle.  As the neckline is a bit low, I threw together a quick tank from stashed Powerdry that happened to cllosely match the green in the print.  The side ties are temporary in brown bamboo.

Now, the homework assignment!  I wanted to make a bunch of nice knit tops that weren't T shirts when I bought a bunch of Sophia Knits from Ressy's coop a few years back.  It is lovely to sew with ... drapes beautifully, wears so soft and still holds it shape nicely.  Good thing I have more left!  I mentionned that I had ordered a number of new patterns from my fave indie pattern line, Hot Patterns.  I had been waiting for the right time, and August was it!  First off the block was a unique loop front view of the basic T.  The newer knot/loop combined with the lower necline and the French Dart on the side gives wodnerful shaping!  I made the top a little longer in the front to give that shirt shape to it.  Because I was shopping the stash, I did not have the match rib knit cuff called for.  I used a dark forest type green Sophia knit once again. Here is the link to the pattern: Hot Patterns 3 Graces T shirts.  Here is the top:

The lay of the neckline is not as smooth as I like in the shots, but that is due to me taking the photo and also to the height of the camera for the full body shot.  It really focuses on the lower body, so the perspective is off somewhat.  I will wear it to Darrell's and he can give his own opinion in person!  The unique loop treatment was a bit of a challenge to visualize as the pattern instructions are somewhat sparse (as is normal for HP; they assume a level of ability that allows for that).  My spatial sense did not allow me to picture it, but Trudy @ HP always thinks ahead.  She has done a number of You Tube videos showing construction and tips for her patterns.  Without that video, this could have been a UFO ... I must also add that the pinning of the loop and the darts was made much easier by pinning on the dress form.  Laying it on the flat table was a bit troublesome.

So, there you have it!  First installation of the actual sewing challenge is done!  Tomorrow Monkey girl is going to cut her pattern out (we are using a KS jean jacket) so that will be her first step in her project as well!  I am nervous and excited at the same time.  I am passing a skill on to my daughter that my mother and dear aunt passed on to me.  The challenge of doing it right makes me nervouse, the excitement comes from having something that we can share and that she will use for the rest of her life!  Watch out Darrell ... she may only be looking and fondling those samples now, but soon enough she will be buying it!  SEE YOU IN A WEEK, DARRELL!!!!