Fashion Rant

OK, I am one of the first to admit that I am not a fashion diva nor am I an expert. I firmly believe that there are trends that look good on most bodies (what I call a classic look) and then there are those that are body specific (stove pipe pants are a wonderful example: my body cannot tolerate stovepipes as they would more resemble smokestacks!). The other day while snoop shopping, I came across a number of young women, teenage girls and, yes, I am sorry to admit it, middle aged women who were preening in front of the mirrors of the change room comparing their new outfits. Every single one of them had similar builds, one that resembles a bean pole, and completely coincidentally (I hope) they were all blondes ... back to the outfits. They all had on black leggings that ended mid calf, long white shirts or T shirts or layers of tank tops all over top of a skirt. The only variety was in the skirt styles and the show height. IT seemed the older the lady, the higher the heel. Here is an example of the look that I spied over at one of the few fashion commentary sites I frequent. Go Fug Yourself is a great site to laugh at each morning as you contemplate what you see on the subway, bus, or in your parking lot.

My first thought of these women in the change room? "Hey this must be a group of girls trying out to be a new Pussycat Doll" My second thought? "Is there a Madonna's Material Girl reunion in town?"
I guess you can tell where I am going with this ... I don't think this is a flattering look. Yes, it shows the legs off, but it also cuts them off visually. And what type of a line does it give the body? Too many conflicting shapes ... baggy tops hide whatever shape is up top and some of the tanks being worn were a tad too snug, showing every wrinkle in the skin. Don't get me wrong, I lovedAudrey Hepburn in her back tights, ballet flats and black jacket. It is a look that can easily be pulled off if done well and if you have the body for it. While the majority of these women did have bodies that could wear all of these elements separately, I am of the opinion that they should not be combined like this. At any age. I think that Ms. Hepburn would have agreed.

What A Difference a Day Makes ...

Well, the Butterick is going to be relegated to UFO status for next fall. As of yesterday, spring has arrived. The temps are rising and the sunblock is now on the counter. When I went to the closet today, I realized I was in major trouble. Very few tops for this temp range. There needs to be a binge of tops and fast! I went to pick up the new patterns I spoke of in an earlier post but I couldn't find the wrap dress. That's OK, I found another dress instead! So, I am going to pull out some TNT tops from the pattern drawer and start a marathon of tops. I have a few short sleeve blouses/shirts I want to put together as well. Now I just have to cross my fingers about the capris in the Closet ... how well do they fit? I am about to find out!

A family note, Hamster Boy turns 9 today. He is growing up so fast, but still has some "little guy" tendencies. I took him out for lunch today (a tradition in our house) and sent Monkey Girl to a friend's for a lunch play date. He inhaled his food as best as his manners would allow and then asked to be taken back to school so that he could play with his friends. Tomorrow the party happens. WE reached a compromise, it is a "non-sleepover" slumber party. MEaning, they arrive at 3:30 and stay till 9:00 pm. We will have 2 movies, pizza and popcorn and maybe an obstacle course outside. Instead of "loot bags" they will paint T shirts with dragon designs of their choosing. I bought 4 packs of white T's @ Wal Mart. I have iron on sheets for the printer, so I will print off some outlines and then they can pick and choose and paint them in their own colour schemes. By the time they go home, they will be dry. Fun in the sun ... and they all have a cool T shirt!

I am off to brave the Closet and the capris, I hear them giggling from here. Then I have to wrap presents before it is time to go get Monkey Girl. The Pilot will be home for supper, at which point the "ripfest" will begin! It will be a toss up what the favorite will be ... the Zoo Tycoon extension for the computer, the water gun (look out PIlot ... you're the target of champions!) or the extra tubes for the Rodent cage (Hamster Boy stated that they will officially share a birthday, so he needs to get something, too!) or the 2 archeology mags he wanted.

Horoscope

I found this over at The Stitchery today. The Goddess of War ... seeing as I am a Leo, I guess that fits! Now I really have to dye my hair red to match my personality!

A good thing today, on impulse I entered the Lion's Den at Wal Mart, otherwise known as the bra department. It has been many a year since I Have been able to find proper fitting bras at a non specialty store, which is why I began sewing my bras. The thing is, I need a new bra and can't find powernet locally and can't stand the underwire poking me through the casing on my sports bra. I just don't have the patience right now to sit and repair it. Nit picky work I am not in the mood for (says the person who is back at altering the Dragon Pants!). So, I went and tried on a couple of bras from the "Just My Size" label. I found 2 that fit beautifully! The girls are sitting nicely where they belong and the strap is level in the back where it is supposed to be, just as snug as it is supposed to be. I could almost say the I am in love with RTW! I will still sew another bra, but right now, it was nice to find them when I needed them!

Dragons in the Mist

Today I went to Home Depot and found a remnant of electrical cable that was the perfect size for measuring out my crotch curve. All for the astronomical price of $1.07 (w/taxes). So,after lunch, I went to the workshop and came up with this curve. ***** I am not quite sure how accurate it is as I couldn't get it to stay snug against me in the back, but the curve part is accurate enough. I then made a template and then took out the Dragon pants and compared. I needed to change the curve, just like Debbie had suspected (assuming that I made an accurate curve).

I trimmed the vertical s.a. to the size 14 as the last version seemed so large on me, (even once I took out the extra 5/8" I had added to the s.s.). I left any horizontal seams at the 16 as the length of the blue version is perfect. I left the dart shaping in at the front seamlines as well. The first fitting had the front zipper not closing at all. Obviously I needed some of that size 16 above the hipline! To get a better idea of where I needed to add, I slashed the waistband to the vertical seamlines on the pants (front and back) and then added a wedge of paper underneath to trace off the area that needed filling. I then stitched a similar piece of fabric in to test my theory. Worked wonders in the front. The side seams still hang straight and the front lies flat and the zip closes. I still need a bit of ease across the belly fluff, though. To do that I will add 3/8" at the s.s., I think. The back I did the same thing, but it doesn't lie as nicely, but it does give me an idea of how much I need to add. I am wondering if I needed to add a wedge at all or if just letting out the s.a. a smidge would have been enough.

I am going away for the weekend, so I won't get anymore work done on them till next week. I took some flat photos of the wedges. The fitting session I am not up to taking live shots of yet. I'll post the photos tomorrow before I leave just to leave everybody hanging in suspense. I am off to bed ...

Exercise in frustration?

Monkey Girl begged us to get a new bike 2 weeks ago. Her other one had been so well used that the bearing case died a fast death and locked the pedals. For the age of the bike and the other abuses it had seen in its early days as Hamster Boy's bike, I can rest easy knowing it is replaced. That being said, SHE wants to bike to school each day, so that means that Mommy has to as well. Not a bad thing,really, I like my bike. I just hate the first few days of riding it as the body remembers what the seat feels like and the knees remember what it is like to pedal.

I am determined to not just bike the 2 blocks to school (and that is the long route) and then park the bike. Yesterday I left early to pick her up and did a couple of blocks beyond the school and then doubled back and did a circuit around the school track. Today, I dropped her off and took another long way home. It felt like it was forever with the wind in my face on that last part of the trail. But I felt like I was getting a workout. I figured that since I had not measured out the mileage, I should wear my pedometer tomorrow. I must have been going for about 30 minutes or so by the feel of it ... Then the bubble burst. Just as I was approaching the turn that would take me to the bottom of my street, I see another mother from the school. I know the distance she had to walk, including a drop off of another child at a neighbouring school. She is fast walker, but she has 2 other kids in tow, so she is limited in speed somewhat. But not limited enough to mkae my ride the 30 minutes I thought it was. When I got home, it turns out I was only out for an extra 15 minutes ... Talk about deflating my ego! Oh well, at least I know that is a good baseline. Now I can plan a longer route to get me that 30 minutes each morning (except coffee Thursdays!).

I posted my Dragon Pants review over at PR. Debbie C. seems to have picked something up that I missed, that being the back waistband dips, more so when hiked. She recommended I revisit my curve and add more length. I have not yet done this, but have seen how others have had success looking at this. Also, when I put them on today (fresh from the dryer) I really noticed the dip. I also noticed that they are too big all over. The new curve I am not sure on, but I am willing to take another look. I think that once the younglings are in bed, I will head to the workshop with the tin foil and check my crotch curve. I think that in order to put the Dragon to rest, I am gong to have to pull out that Tencel and sew up another pair in a smaller size with a new crotch curve, made from the foil experiment. I have some fabric in the washing machine that I bought from Ressy just for these pants, in a nice Khaki green and also in a dark tan colour. She called them "Misty" and here is her description:

50/50 cotton/microfiber Water Resistant....soft with nice
drape..could be used for light weight jackets, trench coats (with
interlining), sportswear, jogging outfits etc..etc.. Very breathable
while being moisture resistant.

That should do it drape-wise. Can't wait to see how they feel once they come out of the dryer! As I like the green better, I think I will use the tan as the next muslin, without any topstitching.

Revisionist Dragon-Taming ...

Two years ago I made this pair of pants from WOF. What caught my eye at that time was the seamed legs and the facing. The crotch fit leaves something to be desired, but I didn't know then what I know now! I think that the overall look on this pant is much better than the Dragon Pants. The line of the legs flatter me more than the fullness of the Dragon. I think that when I am mentally ready to make another pair, I will play a bit and see what a good morph will do for them.

That this pattern didn't work for me has nothing to do with the design of the pattern or the instructions. It just doesn't flatter my figure. Perhaps on somebody taller and slimmer ...

Adding lables ...

An apology is due to my readers as I am in the midst of adding labels to my archives. That way people can find all the posts on the various patterns I am working on. This is something that I have found useful on other blogs, so I think I will add it here. So, for anybody who has me on a feed, forgive the massive numbers of not so "new" postings!

Murphy's back ...

First off, Monkey Girl's dress has been finished and a review is posted over at PR. For those of you whose time is limited, here is a shot of her in all her glory: for those of you with sharp eyes, Mindy is wearing the beginnings of the Butterick twist top behind Monkey Girl ...

I thought that I had rid myself of that blasted Murphy's luck having read over at Gorgeous Things that Diva Ann's sewing life has been as bad as mine of late (only with much better stash and skill!). I was almost sure that Murphy was off visiting Ann and the Boston Irish when today, after Mass, I found that the sleeve piece for the Marfy dress has gone AWOL. I have searched but can't find it. So, just to spite Murphy and show him that he can't bother me anymore, I am not going to worry about it. I am going to be resourceful and use the armscye from a Marfy top I have already fitted and use that sleeve as a basis for the dress.

Here are the pattern pieces (minus the sleeve) laid out on the green linen look fabric I am using. The pieces are laid out to give an approximation of the finished product. It is not laid out on grain, as you can tell by the bodice piece, which is supposed to be on a CF fold. The side panels will be angled when laid out properly.

I am playing with the FBA on this one. I have to do one, that is without question. I also know that I don't want to sew the new dart, so do I close it out and leave it or do I rotate it to the existing dart and make it even bigger? I am going to do one bodice in each style and see which one I like better fit and style wise. Stay tuned for more!

As an aside, I went browsing for patterns online while the ham was cooking and found these two patterns.The first one, the mock wrap, has gotten rave reviews over at PR. I have been resisting the dress as I have other wraps in the pattern stash already. But a closer look showed me that this one has princess lines to it. That gives me many more options for customization. So, it is back on my buy list.The second one is a very close to being a knit version of the HP Bollywood dress (which I love and am going to be starting in about 2 weeks). I love that this is for a knit and the variety of looks in this one pattern. I can see me wearing this dress in most of its versions. What drew me to this dress was the waistline inserts. It can be plain, ruched or even have a waist twist on it. What is not to love about that? Sleeved, sleeveless and a wrap front option. I see almost my whole summer knit wardrobe for tops and dresses in this one envelope! All I need is some city shorts and bottoms and I am ready for summer! I have a number of woven projects on the board right now, but after those are done, this pattern is going to be on the table in all it's glory. Now all I need is some nice summer colours and prints ...

Tarot ...

Ann over at Gorgeous Things posted a little diversion this morning. You answer a list of questions and your Tarot card pops up. For a giggle, I took the test and came up with this:

You are The Tower

Ambition, fighting, war, courage. Destruction, danger, fall, ruin.

The Tower represents war, destruction, but also spiritual renewal. Plans are disrupted. Your views and ideas will change as a result.

The Tower is a card about war, a war between the structures of lies and the lightning flash of truth. The Tower stands for "false concepts and institutions that we take for real." You have been shaken up; blinded by a shocking revelation. It sometimes takes that to see a truth that one refuses to see. Or to bring down beliefs that are so well constructed. What's most important to remember is that the tearing down of this structure, however painful, makes room for something new to be built.

What Tarot Card are You?
Take the Test to Find Out.

This hits very close to home for me for a number of reasons. What I don't understand is how the questions I asked got me here ... That is a programming question, I guess. Oh well!

The Easter Bunny had delegated some last minute shopping to me which I had to do this morning. And Murhpy has been sighted in my bathroom this morning. He messed up my electric toothbrush. So, even with new batteries, it doesn't work. Off to get a new one ... then Monkey Boy tells me his needs replacing as well. ARGH!!! That Murphy is really starting to get on my nerves! Anyway, the eggs are on the stove now and the Pilot just walked in. Soon the house will be empty but for the sounds of the machines down in the shop. Monkey Girl has approved the design changes made last night with the resounding cry of "Wait till Amelia sees me in this at Church tomorrow!". My little fashionista has spoken!

Easter dresses!

The Marfy is still on hold as I get Monkey Girl's new dress done. There was some conflict as to which fabric would do as she "helped" me bring out the spring/summer stash form the Trunk last week. What settled the discussion was a ribbon she found while cleaning up her toys in the playroom next door. It matched a rayon that has aged in the stash quite well. Then we had to agree on patterns. I wanted a princess seamed pattern that has been tried and true, she wanted an empire waist with sleeve flounce. Both patterns were cut in the right size, so there was no advantage to fighting this fight. She is getting her empire dress.

The rayon is quite lightweight and wrinkles at the slightest glance, which may be the reason why it stayed in the stash! That and the fuschia colour (it was the early 90's what can I say?)! Anyway, to firm it up a bit, I am underlining the bodice with a coordinating cotton calico and making a separate underskirt as well. The skirt will be free floating, attached only at the empire seams. I also lengthened the underskirt so that it will show. The intention is to make the rayon lie a bit better, not be so wrinkly and also give some more shape to the dress.

As it is almost midnight, I am off to bed. The dress is 90% done. The bodice is constructed and the outer skirt pieces are stitched to the bodice. The underskirt if constructed and hemmed. Following my rule of no facings, sleeves or closures prior to bed, I stopped for the night.

Tomorrow will be time enough to finish this up and then attack my Marfy. I have a nice rayon jersey in a wonderful turquoise that is waiting to be sewn up! Hopefully I will be able to get the pattern fitted and done tomorrow. I am hoping that with a neckline change, I can get away without a CB zipper! Wich me luck!

Easter Update ...

Well, this is now Easter weekend. Time for a Lenten check up. The secret resolutions were:

1. not buy ANY fabric at all; I almost managed to not give in on fabric purchases. Any fabric that arrived during the past 40 days had been ordered much earlier via Ressy's co-ops, so they didn't count (especially as this was a first day of Lent resolution). The only purchase that occured in Lent was a small one for Ultrasuede from Ressy that matched the double faced wool earmarked for the final version of the HP Lacy Wrap Cardigan. I paid for it the other day. In the spirit of honesty, I had signed up for her powerdry as well, rationalizing that it wouldn't have to be paid for till after Easter. But intent counts, so I cancelled my order. I am sure that I can do without it.

2. not buy any new patterns; I only bought 4 patterns, one of which was for a client, so that didn't count. Out of all the others I definitely could have done without 2 of them, but I had to get that Butterick pattern to knock off one of Diva Phyllis's tops! It was on sale, you see! And I did go in and leave without any fabric at all ...

3. no caramel muffins at Coffee; I know, most people give up chocolate, but my kids are selling chocolate almonds right now and the Pilot did bring back all that Belgian chocolate, so that was NOT an option! The gals and I all go out on Thursday mornings each week for coffee and a caramel muffin at our local indie coffee shop. For the past 4 weeks, I bought the muffins with the intention of bringing them home to my kids. I bought them both muffins for the past 3 weeks. And I had breakfast before I left the house. So, that was the most successful project.

4. sewing for others; didn't happen. Not one response from any of the requests I put out there. Seems like I have to find my own niche and just do it on my own. I am determined to keep looking on this one, though. I need some balance.

5. more of me to the kids; Some improvement has occured, I must say. We managed to make pizza for half of Lent but schedules threw the other half to the delivery man. But we did have more laughs together at night. Being together so much has also left some residual sibling rivalries, but I think that is natural for their ages (5 and almost 9).

All in all, a good Lent. I have done more personal reflection this year than in prior years, so I think I have accomplished what I set out to do. How about you?

Back in the Saddle Again ...

Tonight I managed to avoid the dishes for a bit longer by loading that trusty dishwasher so that I could head downstairs to the workshop. First on the agenda was to pick up that load of ribbing, lining scraps and bra/swimsuit findings from the floor and actually place them in the drawer unit filched from Hamster Boy. I was able to see at the same time that I need to buy some more powernet before I can sew up any more bras, so I will have to make do until I can get some in.

I serged the edges of some fabric I am going to pretreat tomorrow and then I sat down to work on my crocheted crossover top. I managed to serge the powerdry to the crochet (except for the extensions which will remian unlined) and also to attach the lower bodice piece to the upper crossover extensions as well. When I put this piece on Mindy, a glaring need for a dart emerged, so I pinned one out on the outer edge of the extension at the bustpoint and it fit beautifully! The zipper is in the back and the underbodice is darted and ready to be attached to the back. I should easily have it finished tomorrow.

The crossover is not attached to the neckline of the bodice at all. It is stitched into the side seams only and appears to be completely separate from the back. I am not sure how this will wear. I forsee it shifting up my neck and strangling me at some point, so I am going to have to think about how to fix that. This top is also a more closer fit than I had thought it would be despite the fact that my fabrics have more than enough stretch to them.

Tomorrow morning I have to have a meeting with the Easter Bunny's suppliers for the weekend and then I have to pick up some groceries as well. A dear friend whose eyesight is failing needs me to sew on some uniform badges for her as well, so I will go over and have a cuppa while I stitch. Relaxing day, all in all, as long as Murphy stays away!

Sewing News Clip

While browsing the boards over at PR today I found a thread about a promo that Husqavarna, Singer, Viking and Pfaff were doing with Martha Stewart. The last post linked to a HSVP press release announcing a long term endorsement agreement with Martha for their machines. I must preface this by saying that I was unaware that these companies are all owned by one firm. Does that mean that Singers will improve their quality to levels known only by our mothers and grandmothers? Or does it mean that the quality of the others will decrease? Or will everything just stay the same? I wonder if any of the machines are/will be the same inside?

CAVEAT: I am not a fan of Martha Stewart. I respect her skills in the public showing of her domestic domain and her business savvy. I am just not a personal fan of her style and her penchant for making everything so over the top ...

There were a couple of lines in the press release that caught my eye. The first one is a quote from Martha:

I’m delighted that sewing is enjoying a national renaissance

. Really? I wasn't aware that it had really faded away ... granted there are those people who have stopped sewing for whatever reason, but really, wasn't it only that the media awareness of our craft had almost disappeared?

The next quote that got me was this longer one from SVP is this one:

The most extensive consumer research ever conducted in the history of SINGER, HUSQVARNA VIKING, and PFAFF for the past two years shows that prospective and beginning sewers are looking for a sewing mentor. A former fashion model-turned-entrepreneur, Martha Stewart is widely recognized as the leading how-to expert in all areas relating to the home, including crafts. Sewing enthusiasts of every skill level will benefit from the ideas, patterns, projects and templates featured in the company’s family of magazines—including Martha Stewart Living, Blueprint, and Martha Stewart Weddings. They are also able to easily access extensive sewing content and patterns at www.MarthaStewart.com/sewing (http:www.marthastewart.com/sewing). In addition, sewing projects are regularly featured on The Martha Stewart Show, a nationally syndicated daily television show distributed by NBC Universal and carried by leading broadcast TV stations.

(emphasis added) Will this result in a Martha Stewart line of machines? Will having her name on the machines or even the boxes result in a price increase?

Most importantly, do we really need a national figure as a sewing mentor? There are many sewing experts out there with advice to give and lessons to teach. Does garment sewing really need a Martha Stewart type figure? Granted, having the Martha put sewing on the national map will give sewing a boost as she does reach millions of houses each day. And if she can convince us all that we really need Kitchen Aid mixers, then maybe she can convince those without machines that they need to buy one and get sewing ... but what then? What will she do to earn her status as our mentor? Inquiring minds want to know and I may even start watching, just to see what comes of this. Personally, I don't need a mentor, I need a range of resources that I can reach out to depending upon what project I am working on. I don't use any one person's methods exclusively. I use the FBA of Palmer Pletsch, the fly zip of Sandra Betzina, the welt pockets of Gorgeous Things' Ann, the welt buttonholes of els, shall I go on? Personally, any sewing advice I take has to come from a credible source. I want fit advice from a person whose garments actually fit and flatter (hear that, Martha?).

OK. I am off my soapbox now. Forgive the rant ...

Drat that Murphy!!

When I was a small child, I remember my father telling me how they used blame Murphy for all the problems with the aircraft that he worked on. All I could think of was that Murphy must have been a klutz who didn't know how to put tools back in their rightful place. As I got older, I wizened up and figured out about Murphy's Law. He sure does get in the way of things, that Murphy ... What I want to know is, why, with all the other things in my house that he could have played with, why did he go into my bra drawer???!!!

Some time ago, using a kit and a custom drafted pattern, I sewed up my first bra. Constant wear had finally resulted in the elastic loosening enough that I went about making another bra. Great, now I have those two plus my wonderful sports bra to wear with my strapless on stand by if absolutely necessary. Good to go and sew other things, right? Murphy must subscribe to Bloglines or have an RSS feed, cause he knew that now would be the best time to come and pay a visit. First, he took the slight tear in the lace of the first bra and must have stuck both his thumbs in, making it a certifiable hole. Not satisfied with that bit of mischief, he then took my sports bra and poked a hole in the underwire casing, making it just big enough that when I do any exercise, I get poked! Now I am down to my new bra and my (of course) BLACK strapless! Not only do I have to put everything else down and "throw" together a bra, I also have to repair that casing on the other bra so that I can exercise in some semblance of comfort!

The seamstress/adventuress in me is wondering if I should take the sports bra completely apart and draft a pattern from it and make a new one. The sane part of me is yelling "ARE YOU NUTS?!" It is only a casing ... the rest is still practically brand new (that tells you how much exercise I actually do, unfortunately), and then, in the background, I hear that Murphy, snorting as he tries not to laugh too loudly. I bet he was the one who roused all them UFO's from their sleep last month! I wonder if they got sick of him and kicked him out of the workshop and that is how he ended up in my dresser ... or maybe he followed Hamsterboy as he carried all those pants I had been meaning to shorten for him upstairs to his room? The pants don't need shortening any more, BTW. Hamsterboy has done a growth spurt now that the sun has warmed up. The UFO pile is much smaller now that I have gleaned the too small and the just rights and the I'll never wear it even if I do finish it from the pile. I wonder where he will strike next ... maybe he''ll see something more interesting on somebody else's Blog and leave me alone for a while so that I can sew some bras!

Why posture really does matter ...

The mess on the floor next to Mindy the dressform is actually a pile of rib knits and lining pieces that are destined for the new drawer unit that I purloined from Hamster Boy. He needed a new Lego box as his collection is fast outgrowing the drawers. So, he nicely offered to donate the drawers to the workshop if I would buy him a large and flat Rubbermaid. Who am I to turn that down? Now, to those pants ...

Why did these pants suddenly have so much more wrinkles in the photos then in the mirror? I know that there have been many almonds and some surgery under the belt between the last fitting session and this photo, but I am not liking these pants too much on screen. The pockets are gaping a bit as well, now that I look again. Taking digi photos of the "reverse" view was very humbling... where did that wonderful fit that I saw before go to? It took me about 4 shots before I figured it out.

When I started to re-jig the workshop, I bought some mirror tiles and placed them in the corner, giving me a more all around view when I fit. Better, but not perfect. I would need to change the angles I think to achieve what I really want. I made a discovery today ... When I fit using the mirrors, I must have shifted my posture to get the view of the back of my pants. When I take the pictures of the finished product, my posture is proper, so I discover more wrinkles that disappear only if I adopt a pose similar to that of Carol Burnett's secretary character, Mrs Wiggins! (I so wish I could find a screen shot of her walking, she is one of my all time fave Burnett characters!) This shift is most likely a result of my having to twist a bit to view the mirrors ... but definitely not how I normally stand or walk. So, I am posting these pants, wrinkles and all, knowing that my routine should now be tweak and click rather than tweak and twist! I know that if I lift these up at CB, a lot of those pesky wrinkles disappear but truth be told, I just don't want to have to rip out all that top stitching again! So, I am going to live with them and see if I like them better after a couple of weeks without almonds and lots of time on the Elliptical. Because right now, I am not too hot on doing any further pattern tweaking on these! I need a complete break from Dragons ... St George I am not!

Even though I said I was going to focus on the other projects in my family, I started a top the other night as I felt the need for a burst of speed sewing to improve my mood. I figure it was better than eating almonds ... So, I cut out the Butterick 4347 v. D in a nice poly knit crochet type fabric in a wine colour. I am going to underline it with a nice coral silkweight powerdry from the previous EFQ spellbinding. This project was perfect for me as I needed to think about layouts due to the knit being really narrow. I ended up piecing the crossover pieces at the underbust point. I am going to sew it up tomorrow morning. The Scouts are off to the Library tomorrow night, so no prep time for me for a change! That means I get to sew all week in the mornings! WOOHOO!! I promise to post updates ...

We are down to 88 days till the Pilot moves back home ... Hamster Boy is really bummed out tonight after saying good bye to Dad tonight. They had a great Boys' weekend while Monkey Girl and I went to a sleepover with her Beavers (this is what we call the youngest age grouping of Scouts up here in Canada) and then bought her a new bike. He misses his Dad so much ... Pilot didn't want to leave either. 4 more sleeps till he comes back for that long Easter weekend! We are so counting days!

The Dragon Unleashed ...

First a bit of snarky soapbox time ... there is another run of HP patterns out, this time with instruction sheets courtesy of McCall's. Kudos to a small Indie company for reaching for the big guns wrt getting help. Congrats on pulling it off! Makes me smile in pride that I have been a supporter of Trudy and Jeremy in my own small way! Now for the soapbox.

It has been said by others before, and I just have to say it again. Why is it a crime to have to make a muslin for an HP pattern but it is considered par for the course for other companies? Nobody blinks an eye at muslins for Marfy or Burda (don't get me started on their instructions, BTW!), but the minute somebody recommends a muslin for HP people get upset saying for the amount of $ the patterns, cost they shouldn't have to do muslins ... Sorry. I wasn't aware of the fact that HP gave out custom sized patterns that didn't require a fitting session. Get over it people, Trudy designs her patterns her way and just because it may require you to do alterations that you may not have to do in other lines doesn't make her patterns bad. Custom fit takes work. IN ANY PATTERN LINE. So, come on, if you order the pattern, bite the bullet, make a muslin and enjoy the journey .. you just may learn to like muslins when you see the quality in the final garment.

OK, enough of that. Last night I finished altering the Pilot's shirt pattern and actually hemmed the Dragon Pants. Yup, I am wearing them as I speak. Any of the extra ease that I was thinking of tinkering with is gone (no doubt thanks to all those chocolate almonds), but they are still very wearable. The drape is not as nice as I like, but that is due to the fabric, I think. Now that it is warming up, I will sew these up in a lightweight brown crepe I got in a Fabric Mart bundle last year. I think the legs are a bit too wide, but I will see how they lie in the crepe. It amazes me how fabrics change a pattern! I am off to take pictures and post the final product!

I'm free ... almost!

Some of you know that I am a leader with Scouts Canada (thanks to my kids). For the past 2 months I have been working on homework given to me on my last session of advanced leader training. I have been slowly plodding my way through a homework assignment that had me make a 3 year plan and then 3 months of detailed plans and topped off with a plan for a weekend camp. All for 5-7 year olds ... Last night I finally submitted the last part. You see, I didn't have a lot of prior experience to draw on for this as I have only been at this for 3 years. That is what made this such a challenge.

What does this have to do with sewing, you ask? Now my evenings and mornings are once again free for me to sew. To emphasize this, this afternoon, I went to the workshop and took out all the winter fabrics that had been untouched all winter and banished them to the Trunk. I took out all the remnant buttermilks for Monkey Girl and my meager collection of shirtings and blouseweight fabrics. While digging, I found a beautiful emerald green linen look fabric that had been cowering in the Trunk. I think this might just be what I want for that Marfy dress ...I like green and it likes me back! It also coords nice with a floral print that will become a blouse, so if I have enough, it might just become a flirty skirt/skort when the weather warms.

To satisfy my need for a short term task prior to beginning supper preparations, I altered the Pilot's shirt pattern IAW Darrell's directions. In the continuation of my Lenten giving of self, I am going to cut and sew his shirt before I do my own Easter dress. I am going to do the next version in some wonderful shirting that The Stitchery sent up my way. I have enough to make another one if this one doesn't work out quite right. Monkey Girl picked out some fabric for an Easter dress, so that will come next on the machine before the Marfy get sewn. If I don't get it done, there will be 40 more days of Easter to work on it, right? I still have a dress only worn once or twice in the closet that I can wear ... let them come first for a change in the shop.

It is sure nice to think about lighter fabrics for a change ... I even pulled the Jean Jacket out of the Closet to wear this week. I still needed gloves with it this morning, but at least I wore it without boots!

I also borrowed the Pilot's drill and mounted a dry erase board and two sets of hanging baskets on the wall next to the cutting board. I then removed my "To Do" pile of patterns and removed a number that aren't going to get done for the spring and summer and pulled out a few others to add in. I sorted and then listed them and their chosen fabrics on the dry erase board.

At First glance it's always easy, right?

Well, I had to do it. Even though I have a muslin that needs redoing for the Pilot's dress shirt, I had to take a peek at the Marfy pattern. After all, I know what needs doing for the shirt, and he won't be home till Friday anyway, so what is the harm?

I was having a hard time visualizing the how the pieces would look. After reading through the Armstrong book and seeing all the variations of darts, I was positive this would be some weird combination of darts, after all, this is a Marfy, right? It can't be straightforward ... can it? Well, the dress is made up of a one piece darted bodice which is sewn to a 3 piece skirt plus the godets. It actually does look very easy to put together! The outer skirt panels have an angled section at the top that attaches to the bodice above and to the center panel below. All three of the skirt panels meet at a point. The godets are stitched in at that point. This is the place where I am anticipating having problems. I forsee hand basting in my future ... and this is why I am making the first version purely for technique.

I am going to cut out a muslin as is (even though I know I will need to fit it) just to test my ease of construction theory. Just to make it really funky, I am going to use some nice white and orange gingham in the throw away stash for the first couple of trials. I ordered 10 yds of muslin from vogue fabrics as I could not pass up the $1.69 per yd price tag. Can't get near that locally, so even with the shipping, it will be still a good deal.

I probably won't have time to order the final fabrics from Vogue without paying a mint in shipping, so I think I am going to have to go downtown to Darrell's. He can always be counted on for great fabric! First, though I will do up the muslins so that he can see the drape of the dress and suggest from there. Who knows what colour he'll talk me into! You will all have to wait and see! I may even decide to use the floral silk anyway ... a girl can change her mind, right? OR is it all that housework that is influencing my judgement ...

Of course, when I did take out the pattern, I heard a lot of grumbling from the ironing board. I thought I smelled some smoke, too ... I think the dragon is awake from its nap and was mumbling about hemlines. Good thing the Coat is still in it's bag from it's visit to Kay's. Lord only knows what it would retort with. And now that there is a man in the mix, I am sure if the dragon speaks up any louder, that shirt will get involved ... So, in the interests of peace and tranquillity in the workshop, I will hem the pants while watching TV tonight. I have to get that fire breather out of the shop. Fabric is flammable and I am sure he has been threatening the stash if anything should think about jumping out and crying "I AM MARFY! SEW ME NOW" Dragons can be such bullies! And it would serve that coat right if I make it wait until the Cherry Blossoms actually come out to finish it, the way it has been egging on those UFOs ...

The Votes are IN ...

The general consensus by e-mail and comments is that I should sew up the Marfy for Easter. I guess I have to get on this fast as there is only 2 weeks left till Easter! So, I started looking at various online stores last night and found some nice ones on Vogue Fabrics. The first one is a mini faille in a wonderful colour that reminds me of a robin's egg. As it seems a bit bright on the monitor, I asked for a swatch. The second one is a linen blend that is a bit softer. I am anxious to see how they look against my skin tone.

I found loads of nice silks, but I want this dress to be wearable in a number of occasions, so I don't want to go too fancy. Using cotton pique had been suggested, but when I looked at what was available online, I didn't find any colours that I liked. The greens were too yellow and way too bright for my taste. I would have liked a nice emerald green or a sage instead, but I couldn't find any, so I will have to deal with what I have available.

I have lots of homework to finalize today and the inner domestic diva in me is demanding that I clean the house. Of course, having a sister come visit for a night encourages that darker side of me. I don't let her out that often ... she tends to be boring and give me lectures about thread clippings and snips on the floor. The nerve ...

Lenten Checkpoint

Well, Carolyn asked me how I was doing on my Lenten projects today, so I thought I would check back in and let everybody know. The first thing I wanted to do was to use my sewing for a cause. So, I contacted my Parish and a friend who also is an Anglican priest for help. I was led to a couple of options. After having my first child, I sewed maternity clothes for Birthright, an organization that helps young women who decide to carry their babies to term and, if they then keep them, help them along in their new lives as mothers. This was one option that was given to me again, but the only chapter in this huge city is across town, beyond my ability to easily reach them in my limited free daytime hours. Similar for another organization downtown. So, option three was a church community near by (about 15-20 mins away) that sews layettes and such for preemies and still borns. I really liked this idea and have sent many e-mails, but alas, have not received any response. So, my sewing project has not come forth to what I had hoped. So, I focussed inwards instead.

I speak often about my husband, the Pilot. He has been away since August, taking a military senior staff course in a city about 6 hours from us. While he comes home weekends when he can, the kids and I are alone for the rest of it. It has been tiring and emotionally draining, so I tend to withdraw from my kids when I am feeling low and tired, so that they don't see Mommy at her worst. What that has led to is less meaningful interaction with them. So, my actual Lenten project has been to offer more of ME to my kids. I am spending more time with them, giving and getting more hugs, kisses and snuggles.

I have homework time before or after I cook supper, so that I can actually be right there when Hamster Boy needs help remembering his 6 times table. I found a computer game that helps him do his multiplication and I watch him play and cheer him on. I have more snuggles with Monkey Girl as she watches the Pink Panther and have her read to me as she is starting to be able to do that now. Scout night pizza has gone from order in to custom made so that it is more of a family night with the extra speed of fast preparation so that we can get to Scouts on time with full bellies! Hamster cleaning time is now a family event. He washes the tubes and the cages, while I empty the bedding and old food and then dry it all. She watches over the Rodent in its ball while we work. Then the two of them bath the Rodent. All in all, the kids are a bit happier. When I do have a really bad day, I have learned that I can tell Hamster Boy that Mommy is really missing Daddy and I need some quiet time. He then stops fighting Monkey Girl and plays nicely while I have my little cry and sleep. They then wake me up with either a bounce or by throwing all their stuffed animals on my belly.

It has not been easy. Often, after a busy period, I just want the world to stop for a few days and do nothing. So the dishes don't get done right away and the laundry doesn't get put away by me. But now the kids have discovered that if it isn't in the cupboard, to check the dishwasher. They have begun separating their own laundry while we watch TV at night. They get to "throw" mine back into the basket after they take their own up. They love playing basketball with Mom's socks and T's!

So, I guess this Lent has been a rediscovery of my kids and of my husband as well. We really appreciate the time together that we do have and make the most of it. This year really has brought us closer. Only two more weeks till Easter and less than 100 days till he comes home to stay. But what I am doing will last forever ...

Now, Carolyn has told me what she is doing ... has anybody else tried to do something?

Easter is Coming ...

Knowing that the weather is calling for double digit temps ABOVE ZERO (Celsius) tomorrow, my thoughts of sewing are running far and fast from the Cherry Blossom coat and thinking of Easter dresses. I love dresses but don't have much chance to wear them other than on Sundays and with Monkey Girl still in the wriggle on Mom's lap at Mass stage, they aren't always practical! So, my dress pattern selection is somewhat limited as I tend to be somewhat picky.

There is a lot of talk over at the Stitcher's Guild about the new batch of Hot Patterns. They are nice patterns, but I am in the minority in not being a fan of the styles. There is much too much gathering for my tastes. I prefer a more fitted look, I guess. Maybe this is due to over caution owing to my relatively substantial bust size. That tends to dominate my choice of patterns somewhat. While I am not plus size having a bra that is larger than a DDD (US sizing) with a smaller waist, makes them a bit, well, obvious. So, having all that fabric tends to make me think that they would look even larger. Even in my HP Patchoulli Dress, which called for underbust gathers, I used the optional darted bodice that Trudy so nicely thought to design and include in the pattern. So, do I remake the Patchoulli? I have a nice silk chiffon that would be beautiful in it, but I don't think that I have enough for the Bias skirt and the ruffles. That is out.

Option 2 is a Marfy pattern I fell in love with due to the waist detailing. It looks like it might be a challenge to sew, but to be honest, I have not even taken the pieces out to look at yet. It might be easy for all I know!

Option #2 is this Marfy pattern I fell in love with. If I use the silk chiffon (assuming I have enough) it will be quite flirty and will take me into the humid summers of Ontario. It would even do for the Pilot's Grad ceremony/garden party if I find the right hat to go with it. The only downside would be that the lovely darting would be lost in the floral design of the pattern. I need something that will travel and sit well. So, what to buy instead? I know I don't have anything else in the stash that would suit this pattern. I am not sure if I should buy until I try to fit the pattern. I think I will be safe and just get some muslin and go from there. But it sure is nice to be thinking of dresses ...

Spring Has Finally Sprung ...

We are back from Spring Break up here. The Pilot was home for half of it and then we joined him at "Hotel Daddy" for the other half of it. We played tourist with the kids and went to the CN Tower for a day. Hamster Boy and I watched as Pilot and Monkey Girl jumped on the glass floor, looking down to street level. You have to understand that this tower is 1,815 ft., 5 inches from the ground, so the prospect of looking straight down that amount did not appeal to my son and I, so we just stood and shook our heads. The glass elevator was enough for us, thank you!

We had great plans to do other things with the kids, including a huge indoor amusement park that was a great deal moneywise, but halfway there, Monkey Girl went very pale and started to cry. She had a head cold, but to make her ask to go back to the tiny suite that is Hotel Dad, she must have been feeling awful. So, back we went. Hamster Boy actually took this extremely well considering he was relatively healthy. I am really impressed with how he didn't melt down when told he was not going to Wizard World.

That night brought snow (just what a family who didn't pack boots needed) and earaches. A quick pharmacy run brought home lots of Advil and Triaminic for the kids and other stuff for the Pilot (How dare heget sick!). Every 3 hours we were woken up by her earache and tears. We managed through it for 36 hours before she couldn't handle it anymore. She had had a shower, you see (no tub in Hotel Daddy) and had tried to get the water out of her ear. I am sure the whole floor heard the scream! We found a clinic that took walk ins about 30 mins walk away. We got everybody dressed and headed out with Monkey Girl on the Pilot's shoulders. Now I am a fast walker. I had a old Sergeant who called me Paulette Bunyan on our route marches as I was the lead and nobody could keep up. But even at my best pace, I could not catch the Pilot. He was about a block ahead at all times. Parental adrenaline is something, isn't it?

The good news ending is that the fresh air seemed to help her out quite a bit as the pain went away and her nose started to drain big time. But the Doc still said the ear was quite red and gave her some antibiotics. We are not fans of antibiotics and ear infections in children as they become so immune, but I think that she had peeked and if she hadn't tried to get the water out on her own by hitting her head with her hand, she probably would have been OK. That and all that fresh air. But now that her body has done her part, we figured giving her some drugs would help speed things along. So, the rest of the week went nice and quiet in the big city. We spent lots of family time together drawing cartoons, watching cartoons and making Dad laugh. He and I actually got paperwork done as well. Less than 100 days left till he comes home for good. We are so happy about that ... it has been a long 8 months so far. But I have to keep in mind that I am blessed that he is not overseas like so many others I know. That too, shall come to pass, I am sure. I hope not yet, though ...

Catching up...

I enjoyed a wonderful cup of tea and conversation with Kay Young, a fellow PR member last night. We evaluated a pair of stretch cords of hers and then we had some fun with the Cherry Blossom coat. Her pants fit well enough, but we came to the conclusion that a fish eye dart is warranted in both front and back. One thing that came to me on the way home is that she could also use some reshaping of the s.s. below the hips ... they seem to bag out like jodpurs almost. When it came to the coat, we both agreed that the pockets have to come off. As designed, they give the coat a homemade look, vice a quality image. Also, we figure that I can afford to take a good inch out of the s.s. and that I need to cut off the hem allowance on the lining as the coat hem length is just right once it is turned up. So, thanks, Kay for an enjoyable evening out and for an objective pair of eyes!

The dragon pants only need hemming to be completed. Tonight they will be done and a review posted before I go to bed. I still have some issues, but I think most of them are related to the fabric choice and slight sewing errors. More on that later!

The Silhouette trousers are cut out but in temporary holding pattern as I had to throw together a quick shirt muslin for the Pilot. I have spoken about my quest for a better fitting men's shirt before in a previous post, so I won't go into that part again here other than to give an update. After cutting out a size 42, I added 1" to the CB of the bodice and then sewed the rest as is. I knew that there would be places that were too small, but wasn't sure where to add, that is why I took the Pilot and Hamster Boy to Darrell Thomas Textiles where Darrell and I spent 20 minutes writing in marker all over my first attempt. He also corrected some of my misconceptions about men's shirts. I will never see the "perfect fit" that I get on my shirts on the Pilot. Turns out those wrinkles I hate at the armscye are actually needed. Ditto with the slightly lower shoulder seam. Yup, I let the Pilot actually say, in public, "I told you so!" I figure that I have to let him say it once in a long way to keep him content (hey it has worked for 18 years so far!).

With respect to the back pleats, Darrell told me that it would look better on Brian's broad back to have move the pleats from the sides (as stated on the pattern) to a single inverted pleat at CB. He says it would be so much more flattering for his back. The neckline will fit nicely on the Pilot's neck once I add a further 1" to the front of the shirt. Right now, the front is too tight. Why didn't I cut a larger size to begin with? Because the next size up on this pattern is only 1/4" larger at CF and the neckline and still would not have been enough for him. The next size range would result in losing the best fitting shoulder and necklines I have seen to date. So, Darrell, after rightly chastising me for not flat measuring my pattern, told me where I needed to add and how much (1" to the front, neckband and collar, 1/2" to the sleeve length, 1" in length @ CF, tapering to nothing at s.s.). The adjustments are fairly minor and this pattern fits so much nicer than the KS pattern I have been using. There is some nice s.s. shaping and the body is somewhat narrower in look but not in shape.

So, I have to do muslin #2 in a lighter weight fabric than the throw away piece I chose with the changes and then go for fitting #2 next weekend when the Pilot is home again. We looked at fabrics as well and the Pilot has chosen a few of Darrell's nice Italian cottons for purchase once we have the fit down. Once we get Darrell's nod on the fit, I will buy fabric # 1 and spend a day in May with Darrell at my side as we sew up this shirt. Although I have made a few shorts before, I am looking forward to his supervision for technique and quality. He is a perfectionist who loves quality and he is such a wonderful teacher that this will be so worth the $! This muslin is not worth a photo, but # 2 will get shots and a further review.

So, that is what I have been up to! Tomorrow we are off for the second half of Spring Break with the Pilot before he heads back to work. I see wizards, towers and trains in our future ... see you everybody later tonight for the Dragon!

Must have mags?

There has been some discussion about the new Taunton Press mag, Sew Stylish, on a number of sites that I visit. I ordered the first issue as I was curious to see what would be inside. I also signed on to their Blogsite for a while as I wanted to see how/if it would compliment the magazine and also to see if this was something that I would really be interested in.

The initial issue is nicely laid out, but it really reminded me of Sew News. Sew News was the first magazine I had ever subscribed to, and when I was younger, I thought it really neat that I could actually buy a volume wholly devoted to sewing where even the ads were sewing related. I found that as I expanded my skills and knowledge, I "outgrew" it. And eventually, I grew to be miffed at the percentage of ads to content. I see Sew Stylish as being very similar. While the content is basic in nature, I don't see it as strictly a beginner's magazine. The articles that were in both were of value to all levels of sewing. What it comes down to is whether or not you want to read articles that are at that level each month. I decided that I did not. The daily read of the Blog was not my cup of tea either. So far, most of the info I had already seen in past issues of Threads. What I want in any magazine I buy is to learn something or to be challenged in my thinking (that is why this year's new subscription is to "The Smithsonian" and the frequent purchases of "Archeology"). The one mag I subscribed to but reluctantly cancelled was "Catholic Digest". I liked the content, but found the junk mail that resulted from that subscription was enormous and at that time there was no way to opt out of receiving it. So, the sub was cancelled. The junk mail stopped only when we moved ...

I have been buying issues of Australian Stitches at Wal Mart of all places each month. I like what I am reading. There has been a series of articles on wardrobe planning that goes beyond the SWAP concept to the broader idea of a whole wardrobe. There is also a series on fit that has been very informative as well. I like how in depth they go for their articles. And I like seeing the same authors as I see in Threads. This sub is more expensive than Threads, but seeing as I no longer buy each issue of WOF, I think that I can swing it for a birthday present to myself this summer.

The reason I stopped buying WOF is that I just can't see myself sewing all the patterns I like in the issues I already have, let alone future issues. I still browse the styles online, but to be honest, I only need so many pant patterns and skirts aren't in my personal style right now, so really it is only tops that I am interested in. And I have so many patterns that I can't justify buying any more issues on a regular basis.

So, Threads and Australian Stitches are my must have sewing mags. I don't NOT recommend the others as I believe that each person has their own needs and wants in their reading. So, what mags (sewing or non) are in your mailboxes each month and why?

It's not Procrastinating if you have a Plan ...

I know, I promised the coat would be photo'd and mostly rip stitched, but I have to confess that I have not touched it other than to try it on again. BUT, I have a plan, you see. Stop rolling your eyes, this is a great one! You see, I have a date with Kay Y. a friend from PR that lives here in Canada's National Capital. We are going to have a mini fit fest in two weeks! I am helping her fit a pair of pants/jeans and she will help me with the coat. She has made a few coats, so this will be a big bonus! So, I have a plan and it is actually achievable. So, in the business plan world, I am set! So, you just have to settle for the pants shots once I get a chance to upload them.

I have been thinking about those Jalie pants that I altered a ways back. The CB really, really drops low due to the removal of all that excess fabric. I found some extra fabric in the stash today. In order to bring that CB up to the proper placement, I think I will rip the waistband off from the s.s. and then add a back yoke to fill in the space. The will make them wearable again. This is a pressing matter as I need a pair of blue pants for a Scouts Canada medal presentation next weekend. I am one of the local recipients of the Scouts Canada Centennial medal and although I usually wear jeans with my leader's uniform, they would not be appropriate for this instance. The Dragon pants would have been perfect for this occasion had I not fused some iron on flowers on the back pockets. Although I could remove the pockets and replace them with plain ones ... it is not too late. But the alterations to the Jalie pants are still needed anyway. Time to flip the job coin ...

Spring is coming ... somewhere!

Earlier in the week the Monkey asked me to BBQ hot dogs for lunch. As it was a wonderfully sunny day and the deck had been cleared of snow by the sun, I went outside. I even opened the deck umbrella for a bit to provide some shade for the kitchen as it was really warming up in there. It was a huge surprise when a fly took wing from underneath the umbrella. IT had been hibernating, I guess along with a half dozen lady bugs. So, despite the fact that March definitely came in like a Lion this year, spring is coming! I am now on robin watch! When I see the first one I will know spring has arrived!

I went back to the sewing room this morning. Before I took that last hiatus, I had trimmed and then repinned the Dragon pockets, both front and back. I then abandoned the sewing room for a couple of days that magically turned into a couple of weeks. Some of it was for medical reasons, but now there are no more excuses. I only have the cargo pocket to add and the inseams to stitch before doing the waistband, so they are almost done. There shouldn't be any more tweaking until I get the lighter weight fabric from the EFQ (ordered a week before Lent began). So, hoping that Monkey will let me finish these this aft, I will have them done for the Pilot's arrival tomorrow noon.

In light of the spring like atmosphere, I have some worries about the Cherry Blossom coat. I have been staring at it, wondering why it doesn't appeal to me. I am of the opinion that it really is not a flattering coat on me right now. I wonder if I made it too large? IT is supposed to be a loose fitting design, so I wonder if I made it too big? Seeing as I no longer need the warmth factor, I am going to rip out the lining and replace it with a layer without any fleece. Maybe a layer of flannel instead. I have more lining, although it is not silk. I also think I will take the seams in at the s.s. and armscye to see what that will do. And shorten it some more. So, once the Dragon is domesticated, I will do my round of rip stitching and then pin it all and post for help. I have always been lucky that the majority of my readers have the knowledge and tact to give me what I need to hear and to provide good solutions. I really don't want to give up on this.

Last week, Diva Phyllis posted a shot of her wearing her HP Sportive Suit Skirt. While I love the skirt and have it in my to do list for Spring, I fell head over heels in lust for her blouse! I commented on it and Phyllis was nice enough to brainstorm the construction of it for me. She even found a pattern for me/us. I went to the local Fabricland yesterday and bough the pattern. And (mea culpa) some fabric to go with it. The colours in this fabric will lend itself to many items in my Closet, so I think it will be a nice dressy blouse for spring.

I also picked up this little gem of a top. I made a formal top a few years back that had similar lines to view D. This photo is not flattering as I see that the Twins are a bit droopy and hindsight being perfect< I should have widened the bodice piece a smidge ... but oh well, it was good for the price of the silk! The point is, I like the wrap over styling of the bodice, but was uncomfortable with the lie of the crossover. This new pattern eliminates that problem by having an under layer to the wrap. Now, I just have to choose the right fabric for this top. I have a Pucci type print that I think would hide the wrap detailing, so that is out. Same with the lace. That leaves me with powerdry and some Sophia knits that are coming with that box from Ressy. And some summer weight jersey's that are too light for Canada's early spring. So, do I make it in the caramel silkweight powerdry? Or the white cotton lycra that I was going to use for the twisted turtleneck? I think I have enough for both, but do I need 2 white tops?

I think I have finally found a use for that red gabardine that has been harrassing me so loudly! I think it will become a HP Sportive Suit jacket. I have a nice summer floral print with a matching red in it that would do well in the skirt of the suit. Or do I have it backwards ... should the print go on the top and the solid on the bottom? I can never get that straight! Anyway, I think that the print would make a nice spring/summer skirt as it is a nice weight cotton with some lycra to it. A jacket would not be right for this fabric, but I could sew it up in this zip front blouse. I know this is a flattering look for me, so it would be great for this. Maybe with the red skirt? I am determined to use that red ... I have to purge it from the stash this spring!

Anyway ... enough time typing for now. I need to get back to finishing off the Dragon so that I can get to that coat!

Mmmmmmmmmm, truffles ....

Just a quick note to express my public love for the Pilot. He has been gone for 3 weeks straight this time and returned to hearth and home carrying 2 boxes of chocolate truffles from Belguim, a half pound bar of milk chocolate and things for Monkey Girl and Hamster Boy. Did I mention the truffles? This is why I am not giving up chocolate for Lent! After all, one box was meant as a late Valentine's gift as he was overseas at the time.

Yumm, the last one I had was white chocolate with a coffee center and a layer of milk chocolate underneath the white and a small nut on top. I love my Pilot ...

I noticed that I have neglected to add the photo of the new pant pattern piece, so I will remedy that this weekend. I have some blog catching up to do!

Lenten Thoughts

This morning my sister offered to take Monkey to school so that the sister and law and I could go to Mass as today is Ash Wednesday. I haven't gone to an Ash Wednesday service for a while as they are usually in the evenings when the kiddies should be in bed or early in the morning when I am dropping one off to school. So this was a nice thing for her to do.

Today marks the beginning of Lent for my family. We have never been a family to "Give up something for Lent". I know many people who do, and I support them in their endeavors. That is why I never send my mother in law chocolates for Valentine's Day. It always falls too close to Lent and she always gives up chocolate, ice cream and wine. Her only 3 vices. What we try to do is to pick something and do extra. This morning, one of the Deacons in training at my Parish gave a wonderful reflection on Lent as a Season of Giving. Giving of more of one's self than normal. Of restraint where no restraint is usually given (he used an example of our behaviour in traffic and line ups). This goes beyond just writing an extra cheque or not having chocolate. It involves true giving, that which takes effort and has an effect.

After some thought, I have decided on a two pronged approach. First of all, I am giving Ressy up for Lent. That's right, yesterday I made my last order to the Evil Fabric Queen for the next 40 days. Not only will my pocket book like it, so will the rest of the stash as they are complaining about being cramped. The second part will be to take some of the stash I currently have and sew it up and give it away. In the days after HamsterBoy was born, I sewed maternity clothes for young mothers who were in need. I have lots of bottom weight fabric in the stash. I also have lots of knits coming in a recent buy from Ressy. I am going to contact the local service agencies and see if there is a need for maternity or nursing clothes for young mothers. I am going to use my personal stash to fill this if I can. I am not sure of the success I will have, but I am sure that I need to try. I need to be a little more selfless this Lent. Does anybody care to join me?

Hamster escape!

First of all I have to admit something ... it was my fault. Last night I rearranged the Rodent's tunnel tubes and cages. I failed to double check one joint apparently. When Hamster Boy woke up he looked at the new set up and pointed the now open joint to me. He did not, however, notice that the Rodent was not in her bedroom area. I am hoping he either did not notice or did notice and was afraid to mention the fact that she was missing. I am betting on the former as he went to school far too willingly for a boy who knows his hamster was missing. Lucky for me, my sisters were here. Between the 3 of us and a flashlight, we managed to follow the trail of shavings to behind the washing machine. To get her out, we moved the dryer to make noise and then coaxed her out with some lettuce. She snatched that and disappeared back behind the dryer. So, my sister (the one with the almost photographic memory) remembered reading in one of HamsterBoy's books that dog biscuits are a special treat. So, the Dog surrendered a biscuit and out came the Rodent! She is now back in the cage munching on more lettuce and contemplating her brief overnight of freedom. And I don't have to tell the Boy or Monkey what almost happened ... Mommy almost lost the Hamster! And all because she was able to open the cage by herself, leading me to re-arrange the tubes to prevent an escape.

Customized Shopping?

While browsing the boards over at PR this morning, I came across an article on the use of Body Scanners in RTW stores. While this is not new to me, there was some content in the article that was a bit interesting to me. First of all, apparently, my hourglass figure is an oddity (emphasis is added):
"the women’s fashion industry was shifting from its hourglass-figure paradigm. The research – sponsored in part by J.C. Penney, Target and Jockey – showed that the hourglass figure is the least dominate shape of women, making up only 8.4 percent of the 6,318 women scanned. In fact, the hourglass figure almost doesn’t exist in women above a size eight."
Snort ... sorry, I am still shaking my head over the thought that the hourglass actually was the paradigm!

The other thing that peeked my interest was a reference to a website called My Shape.com.
The purpose of this site is to be an online portal for personalized shopping. After registering, you enter in a raft of personal measurements and then select colouring and hair colour and answer basic questions about what type of clothing styles you wear and so on. So far there is nothing new here, I have seen this offered elsewhere, but the new twist (for me) was that once your info is entered in, they offer you a personal selection of garments that are sized for your measurements and supposedly suited to your figure type and colouring. The idea being that you will then buy those items from this site. Being a member gets you free shipping and returns.

For the fun of it, I entered in all my info and then opened "My Shop" to see what they would have for me. I must say that had I the $, I would wear most of what they offered up for me. The biggest surprise was the red business skirt suit shown on the first page. It was a bluer red than the gab in the stash. Maybe it is the shade of red that put me off that gabardine ... it is a more orange red than a blue red. The only criticism I have is that the garments are shown on mannequins that are not my shape and the fit on the mannequins are definitely helped along by unseen pins an clamps, I am sure. It would have been even better to visualize had the garments been on a virtual me, I think.

Taming the Dragon ...

I couldn't do it. It kept me up last night, that red gabardine. Even though I was thinking muslin, I was internally hoping this version would actually be wearable. The only problem is I really don't have much in the Closet or stash to coord with red pants. Then there is the internal Stacy and Clinton snarking away about who wears red pants (or was that me channelling my mother?) ... so I went deep into the stash and found a classic navy blue gab instead. It was pre-washed and needed a fast pressing, so out it came. I have now cut it out and it is awaiting interfacing and edge finishing. I usually do this before I start any seams.

Changes to the pattern:
1. straighten the CF
2. added 5/8" @ s.s. starting at the bottom of the pocket area
3. added same to the pocket pieces and waistbands pieces
4. removed the dart at the seam at the front seam by straightening out the seamlines.
5. lowered the crotch "curve" and shortened the extension by approx 1 1/2"
(below is the inner back leg piece with the new cutting lines in red and the new seamline in blue)


It does seem that I have lots of gab in the stash, but most of it is poly cotton blends, I believe. My mother went on a buying binge years ago (I was Hamster Boy's age, I believe) with thoughts of a June Cleaver type wardrobe, I think, in classic navy and grey with the red for a jacket, I believe. Last summer, she "forced" me to take the majority of it home with me. I honestly can't see me wearing it. It's not that I don't like red, I have a couple of nice red sweaters and tops that I wear often. I have a red linen that is awaiting spring for a blouse. But I can't see myself wearing that much red. Maybe trench for spring? Yeah, right! I already have 2 coat UFO's, I don't need another!

As I have almost finished taming the Dragon, my mind is beginning to wander to the next project. Definitely the Twisted Turtleneck, first mentioned by Diva Phyllis over at the Sewing Divas. I have a white cotton lycra that would be perfect for this design. I plan on using the Simplicty twist top pattern as the basis of the top. When that one is finished, I plan on using a brown Pucci type print in browns and greens for a knock off of a new Jalie top that has an empire waist and a V front with a raised neckline. Leslie posted a review of hers over at PR the other day. I really like the look of it, but I don't want to spend $15 with shipping and taxes for a look that I think I can easily achieve using a Kwik Sew pattern already present (and fitted) in the stash. All I have to do is to eliminate the overlap, make a CF seam and raise the neckline in the back and shoulder area. I will have to play with that aspect of the design, but it will be fun to do! Another design growing in my head is to take my TNT princess T pattern and to add sideseam ruching and try to twist the center panel. I have some nice brown knit for that one. With some nice teal thread for contrast, it should be really nice, if I can get it to work.

These are all further attempts at pattern re-drafting for me, something I find I enjoy doing immensely! I have Armstrong's pattern drafting book and I find I am looking at patterns and garments in the stores in a whole new light as I try to figure out how they are made. I find myself looking closer at the stash to see which patterns I can actually morph to copy the details I like. I do more work in my head than I do in the actual workshop, but small steps first, right?

Basics, continued ...

Well, last night and this morning's efforts have me now ready to cut muslin #2 . Having undone all the changes done before and restarted really helped. Turns out I had over-thought the alterations. All that I really needed was to lower that curve and shorten the length of the extension quite a bit. When I balked at how much it appeared that I needed, I pulled out my Silhouette pants pattern and compared the curves. Pretty close! The only other change I had to make was to take a small horizontal tuck across the back and then add that back to the top. What I did was to take this out of the yoke piece rather than the pant as I didn't want to fiddle with adjusting the 2 pieces.

The pattern calls for medium to lightweight fabric like panne velvet or rip stop nylon ("think drapey"), neither of which I have. So, I am trying to determine which fabrics to use from the stash. I have some nice twills, but I think they may not be drapey enough. Same for the brown ottoman ... I have some really lightweight brown gab type fabric from Fabricmart, but I would not be able to wear it any time soon due to the temps outside! So, I am going to hedge my bets and try some red gab in the trunk for this muslin. I was given the fabric by my mother, and while I like the idea of red pants, I am not sure I am the person to wear them ... primarily because I don't have enough in the Closet and stash to wear with them! So, the red gab is muslin bound while I re-think what to use for these pants! OF course, if the Sophia knit from Ressy arrives soon, this whole conversation may be moot! I have some in black arriving that would be perfect for these, I think!

Dragon restart ...

OK, I have gone back to the beginning and removed all basted changes except for the expanded side seams. The pants are still a bit snug at the hip/waist area (see the drag lines on the left yoke piece?), but what I really am stumped about is what to do about those vertical lines below the crotch curve. I have yet to clip this curve although I did snip at the joint of the "L" shape. This is a very wide pant, but the majority of the width seems to be carried in the inner pant leg piece. Are these lines due to this extra width?
















Help is needed here, readers!

Hamsterboy

Here is the promised photo of Hamsterboy and the She-Rodent known as "Hammie"...

A rose by any other name ...

I found this while playing and got a giggle ... what does your name mean?

What Lorna Means

L is for Logical O is for Organic R is for Remarkable N is for Naughty A is for Active

What Does Your Name Mean?

More UFO complaints ...

Well, the Closet, not wanting to be outdone by the Workshop, has now started to complain as well. Turns out that all those wearable muslins I have been doing aren't satisfied with being alone in the closet. They seem to think that because they have been completed with relatively little effort, that the "final" versions should be keeping them company upstairs. So, now the to do list is getting longer. Not only do I have to finish the UFO's, the mending and exercise, I also have to make up the final versions of the HP cardigan and jacket.

I think the closet feels left out due to all the attention being given to the workshop. This afternoon things were fairly subdued when I ventured down to try out the Beast formerly known as elliptical. I think the coats were a bit intimidated by the Beast. So should I have been, I think. I severely underestimated it's power. I foolishly thought that since I can easily do 30 minutes of hills on a treadmill (OK I could, last year!) that this wouldn't, indeed, couldn't be that hard ... could it?

IT WAS WORSE! After only 5 minutes I was seriously re-considering this purchase. Now I understand why the seller converted to a treadmill. First, my knees "thickened up", making them very tired. Then, the glutes started to yell at me ... I could feel one muscle all the way from the back of my knee all the way to my waist and it was not happy! I had to take a number of breaks to catch my breath. I swear that I heard those dragon pants muttering as they lounged behind me on the cutting table. Something about deserving every minute for abandoning them. Dissing the seamstress is NOT how to get me to quit! So, I changed the channel to HGTV and carried on! I forced myself to finish the full 30 minutes of motion ... problem is, it took me almost 45 minutes to accomplish that feat! My new goal is to bring that 30 minute session down to an actual 30 minutes in the next two weeks.

In an effort to make amends with the UFOs, I folded the Beast and slid it out of view under the cutting table. I then took the ring leader Dragon upstairs into the light of day to ripstitch all the alterations I have done to date. The plan is to put them back together and take another look at them. I explained that I have a meeting at the school tonight about Hamsterboy transferring into French Immersion next year. The ringleader seemed to accept that excuse/reason. The rest of the plan is to go down and rebaste along the original lines, take a photo and put them down again. I will then start to hand hem the sleeves of the coat. I have to pin the hemline. I will hopefully be able to call it a night after that. Of course, this all depends on Hamsterboy not having any more nightmares ... I bet it is the Closet that is waking him up each night. His Den is the other side of the Closet wall.

No more excuses ...

I just came home from picking up the new addition to the Shop. While not a sewing machine, it is something just for me. I found an elliptical/stepper machine that folds oh so nicely and fits, like it was meant to be there, under the cutting table. Now, I know that if I kick the machine while cutting, it will be a signal to pull it out and use it!

In order to slowly acclimatize the rest of the room to the machine, I have opened the doors and just have it peeking inside. That should keep the ruckus to a minimum while I put the kids to bed and pop some Advil for this headache that has been plaguing me most of the day ... maybe a trial on the machine will help.

What I really need now is a nickname for the machine. I love how Ressy calls her treadmill the "dreadmill" ... I am now taking suggestions for what to call this little fella! Maybe the 'Lepper?

UFO Sightings

I seem to have hit a speedbump the size of a moose in my sewing. First, it wsa too cold in the basement. Solution: I closed the cold air return for the furnace that was bringing in all that minus stupdid air. Then I added a space heater to the Shop, but when I planned on going down, Hamster Boy had some bad dreams, needing snuggle time with Mom on the sofa. This happened for a few nights in a row, so I think Hamster Boy was imagining all sorts of horrible things when he heard the exercise wheel and antics of the Rodent at night. Said Rodent has been moved to the TV Room out of earshot of Hamster Boy. Nightmares have almost gone away. I think he has also been reading the old Goosebumps books at school ... they tend to make his imagination go wild! Still no sewing at night for a while ... And daytime has been busy with Scout stuff. One of my homework assignments for my training is to make a 3 year plan, 3x 1 month plans (in detail) and then plan and run a weekend camp. All by end March.

It all started because I needed to take a break from the coat and started the pants. Then I needed a break from the pants, so did I go back to the coat? No. Now, both are UFO's taking up space. Looking around the shop, I also see a fleece coat started when we first moved here almost 18 months ago. It was intended for my mother, but then she went to Burlington Coat Factory with her friend and came home with 4 coats/jackets. No need for it anymore, so it hangs, forlorn, watching the other coat.

I am sure the two of them have been bickering when the lights went out. The Cashmere can be a bit snotty at times, so I am sure that the wool fleece is now laughing at the Cashmere's unfinished state. "At least I have facings and linings" I thought I heard it mutter ... As for the pants, I am not sure it has forgiven me the snub I unintentionally gave it to help the Monkey make her "pooch pouch" "it is sooooo PINK!" it whines ...

Just when I get them calmed down I hear a quiet sigh from the closet area ... turns out the Pilot's shirt muslin is threatening to come out of hibernation early. Not a good thing to do, I tell it. The last time the Pilot was home, I took a good long look at his back and shoulders... he has re-discovered the weight room. Again. Come Spring Break, he is going to Darryl for some shirts! I am going to wake up the muslin and then join it with another and we will compare the two at the shop.

Of course, snarking in the background is the mending pile. My dear Mom sewed the Monkey a number of nighties and tops a year back and the seams have all popped. They need almost total redoing for her to wear. They feel so left out ... especially as they don't even have a basket or a box. Just a pile.

What the reaction will be tonight when I introduce the Elliptical/Stepper to the mix, I am not sure. I am sure that there will be some snark about it being a new place to hang UFO's. I will have to make some space under the Table as it folds down for storage when not in use. I have yet to decide if it will actually be inside the Shop or just outside the glass doors, but still in view of the TV. I wonder what I would hear if I left a tape recorder in there tonight ...

Tagged ... again!

I've been tagged by Robyn over at Blue Moon! While I won't tag another 5 people as I think the pool of non-tagged people is quickly becoming a puddle, I will post another 5 things about myself.

1. I am Catholic and a cultural anthropologist ... reconcile that!
2. I don't sing in the shower, but I do love singing Alto Tenor along with my choral CD's in the workshop; as I used to sing in a choir for many years, I am actually pretty good; no I don't do karaoke!
3. My second favourite CD is from a group called The East Village Opera Company; a neat group that believes that the Major Classical composers were the rock stars of their time and have re-worked many pieces into rock opera; their Ave Maria is beautiful! I have their first indie album ...
4. Must see TV: CSI Miami (I love the corny opening lines of David Carruso!), House (don't you wish we could all say whatever we liked sometimes?), Vegas and Studio 60 on the Sunset Strip
5. The name the Scouts up here call me is Hawkeye ... ironic cause I have really BAD eyesight, although it is better than the alternative which was "Bubbles"; those of you who can see the Canadian cable TV show called "Trailer Park Boys" will understand why!

The coat is still slumbering and as are the pants ... I have an order for more Scout neck scarves to finish and deliver this week.

Toe Shoes???

I like shoes, don't get me wrong ... but I am not obsessed by them. I guess that is still the SAHM in me. I just don't have a lot of shoes, although the ones I have are nice enough, I think that Stacy and Clinton would pass me by. A friend sent me photos this morning of some new shoes that I can only assume were runway pieces and not meant for general wear ... they are so over the top that I just had to share them!

For those of you with ballet lessons in your past, be warned ... painful flashbacks may occur and I apologize for any toe cramps you may experience ...