It's just a number ...

Muslin alert... Finally back to my Tailored Track pant. This was one of the projects left out of my Sewing in the Sun packing due to baggage weight and that has been aging since pre-sewing in the Sun 2019. I cut this in an inexpensive plaid stretch woven as I wanted to see if I could successfully match the plaid across the seams as well as achieve the fit I want.

DISCLAIMER:

This was cut as size 16 with the following adjustments:

- flat seat adjustment of about 1" (added back at CB)

- about 1/4" added to back inseam,

- full tummy adjustment

- 1" added to side seams in the hip area

- the elastic casing narrowed to a single width for a 1.5" elastic

This is very much a case of over fitting and being stuck on a size number. Why do I say that? Because I was determined that a 14 would fit as an 18 woud]ld be way too big ... Because I fit a pair of 18 Tummy Tamers with a LOT less hassle last year. Last year was all about scrapping numbers and going for what works.  Different wearing ease and design ease means I need different sizes. There is no one size fits all - if there was, we all woudl not be sewing!

The challenge now is to tape a new copy together (LOVE pdf patterns for this!) and lay over the Tummy Tamers pattern pieces to compare the two and adjust where needed. AND the Mainsail pant fit perfect out of the envelope. Different amounts of wearing ease, I know, but that alone indicates that I am starting in the wrong place for this pattern.

My take away from this? I am awesome at matching even plaids! They even match at the side seams! And yes, I did tuck the sweater in for the photo, but it would not be worn thus, so the tummy issue would be hidden if I wear untucked tops; which I would do over an elastic waist anyway. So, here is another one of my famous blurry night time pics of Tailored Track Pant Muslin #1/

The buckle at the lift hip is because the elastic twisted and I did not notice until after I had stitched the ends and closed her up.

Still something wonky on the back inseam happening. And I am NOT liking the angle of the plaid.  Wonder if deepening the curve would stop that ...

All in all, a good first muslin.

You can see in the front view that the tummy still needs a bit of help. The back looks 

#HPHAPPINESS2020 - 1262 Last Minute Make Poncho Sweater

hp-1262-dl-last-minute-poncho-sweater
This is not something I would normally consider wearing, but my desk at work has a draft that tends to hit me on the back of my neck and chill my forearms. And I happen to have some stunning stretch velvet that would be amazing and a faux fur that coords perfectly. Problem is, I already have a hooded cowl made up in it. Am also pretty certain that fur would be too hot. As a warmer weather item this would work for me, mid Canadian winter, not so much.

So, am pulling one together as part of my New Year's sewing marathon. It will be lighter weight Ponte in grey with a rayon knit floral print for the cuffs and cowl. To be worn with (yet to be made) HP 1221 Plain & Simple Tailored T.

Initial version:
Size: 12
Fabric: Lightweight Ponte in grey for body, rayon print floral for cuffs and cowl
Alterations: None at cutting
Concerns: the cuff may need to be recut in a larger size for my fabic; will determine that once they are stitched. The Dolman sleeve is going to be a bit wierd under the winter coats up here, but I can deal for the short commute relative to the time at my desk. The hemline opening makes this a topper and not a top.

Construction notes:

• Taping the pattern took me about 30 minutes; that is probably a bit slow, but I am dealing with tendonitis in my left arm right now so have to take breaks to stretch and re-position;
• Do not be afraid that the bodice pieces look small ... the sleeves make up for that garment width. I had to keep reminding myself of that as I worked.
• The hem bands do not call for interfacing. While that is necessary for the draping, I think that if you use lightweight knits for the bands and want some structure, you should use a super lightweight fusible on the band (Pam Erny has a super lightweight fusible tricot that I love). I did not  interface as I want to see how flowy this is on completion as is. also, my trim is an interlock knit, so it curls when stsretched. Easy to notice when pinning. :)
• The front hem band is plenty long. The guide says to not stretch and there really should not be a need to. Unless my fabric stretched on its own, mine was just over an inch too long, perfect for laying it out and pinning on the flat (crucial for not stretching) and having some overlap at the ends;
• Pinning the sleeves to the front and back is a must.  Similar to a princess seam, there is easeing that must be done.  So, stretch is a must for your fabric, unless you want ruching from the neckline down to the notch. I found that applying some tension to the fabric as Ifed it through machine worked perfectly to ease the fabric without puckering.
• You really notice the shaping on the front arm seam ... it is subtle, until you pin.  It is almost saddle shoulder vice raglan.  The curve will be very flattering.
• The guide says to "join the underarm seams, finishing at the hem bands". I continued stitching to include the hemband as those ends were unfinished. I am assuming that this was the actual intent.
• My knit fabric must have shrunk a bit wile pressing as one cuff is tighter than the other. As I have larger wrists, I will have to increase the size of the cuff, or use a fabric with more stretch next time. The cowl was tried twice with the twist, but again, not enough stretch.  So that will not happen. If there is fabric left over after the T, I may make the cowl in a longer version and not twist it.

Here she is. I had to take off the knit top underneath as the ponte was dragging on it and looked sloppy. Hopefully that will noy happen with the planned coord T. As you can see, the front length is generous indeed.  I am a large busted gal and there is no adjustment needed in this pattern at all.  Imight shorten the front a bit for proportion. The only reason it looks even with the back is because I have one leg forward. Otherwise the front is longer.  So, either the front grew as I worked it (I did not stay stitch as the ponte is quite stable - perhaps I should have listened to Trudy?) or the design wants more length up front.

I can see this in a lux knit, perhaps something with some sparkle and fur cuffs and band.  This fabric is really too lightweight, I think, to pull off the look and do it justice. This was intended as a muslin, though, so am not worried. I can always go get some of the lovely cableknits at Darrell's for another one. Maybe in green if he has it.

EDIT:

When Mindy is wearng it, the hem is even ... I guess that means the extra length is a body growth issue and not a fabric growth isssue, lol! Will have to ponder that alteration a bit.