Sunday, April 06, 2008

First off I want to thank Mary Beth for nominating my site as an excellent blog site. I am reserving the right to tag people at a later time. I only read a few blogs, you see and am nowhere near the required 10, so I am not going to post the award. In this case, it really is great to be nominated! I love the history of this blog award (and I shamelessly quote Mary Beth quote here):
it’s wound it’s way through blog communities interested in child rearing, homeschooling, literary arts, and spiritual life, to name a few, landing here in the sewing community just lately
I love the fact that it is not restricted to one topic. I started Newman's Needle as a place to put my swing projects out there for reflection and assistance and as a means of putting more info out there than would normally be in my reviews that I post at Pattern Review . It has since developed into a bit more, encompassing the kids, the Pilot, the Job and Scouting as well since everything in my life tends to veer towards sewing once way or another, I see this as a positive evolution in my blogging, however I am trying to stick to more sewing content and leave the personal info to private e-mails.

So, in that spirit, I want to introduce you to a new blog I found. It is written by a lady who exercises at the gym where I work. I was directed to her site by my dear friend Darrell Thomas who thought we might get along. Imagine my surprise when I saw her picture on the blog and realized she is a lady I see almost every day and whom I also work out with on occasion (OK we are training partners for 6 weeks of "Boot Camp" run by one of the trainers on staff). She is a wonderful person and I love the detail she is putting into her work and her blog. Right now, she is finishing off a Chanel styled jacket out of a pink silk, complete with bound buttons and piped seams. So, go get a cuppa and sit a spell and read along with at Julia's sewing blog.

So, what is new here? I started my tailored jacket class at Darrell's two weeks ago. We are using Burda 8300 for the class. Darrell is making us use bound buttonholes, welt pockets and by unanimous decision, we are all leaving out the back vent. We are using industrial techniques otherwise. Last week we had our muslins fitted and then watched him put the main body together. Nothing surprising there so far. But it is nice to be with others in a group; like a directed sew along combined with the humour of the stitch and bitch we tried last year.

So, I went along with my muslin and realized as I was sewing the fronts together that I had way too much fabric in the side panel compared to the front. Turns out I forgot to lengthen the front panel when I did my FBA on the side. DOH! So, when Darrell fitted my muslin, he tucked out the gap at the armhole and removed all that "extra fabric" that really wasn't extra. But he couldn't know that as he hadn't seen my pattern. So, today I redid one side and front panel and will see if it fits better tonight.

Another issue I had with the muslin was there didn't seem to be enough ease for me. I cut a 14, did my usual FBA of 1 1/2" but it seemed tight for a jacket. So, I went back and did 3/8" s.a. on all the vertical seams. Darrell kept them that way for almost all but the CB. That one he put back at 5/8", and the front seam above the bust apex he also took back into 5/8". I will play with that tonight as well. I have to have the fabric cut and the bodice fused and put together by Wednesday night's session. That is when we deal with the sleeves.

Don't ask me about what fabric I am using. What I intended to do and what I actually am doing may be two different things. I have a number of options in the stash, but most are spoken for other jacket projects. I had planned on using a silk wool blend that I bought with my DMIL's annual GC from Fabricland. I did not want this to be dryclean only, so I put it in the washer on delicate in cold with Woolite. I am not sure if the results are a quality issue or just ignorance on my part, but there was so much fuzz in the washer after that it took me 5 minutes to clear it all out and clear the floor of it! It really changed the hand of the blend. It is much more fluffy and thick despite no dryer time. Careful pressing has improved it somewhat, but I am not quite satisfied yet. I will try again when it is completely dry. I might have to swap fabrics and projects. I have some nice wool flannel that is a perfect weight and have more than enough for this project as well as a HP Sportive Suit jacket and maybe even a skirt ... I'll let you know when the decision is made!

It is bedtime for the kids and almost time for me to head downstairs, so I will be saying g'night for now. Enjoy reading Julia's musings and if you post, tell her Lorna sent you! I'd love to hear how many new readers she will gain between now and our next work out!

4 comments:

connieB said...

Hey - I nominated you too! Guess you can claim double excellence!

JuliaR said...

Thank you so much for your kind words! I'll have to check my stat counter to see if there are any changes. Plus, you will have to show me how Darrell teaches you how to make the bound buttonholes unless by bound you mean with a blanket stitch. I feel like I am making mine up as I go along.

Connieb said...

Letting you know that I tagged you Lorna- hope everything is going well!

JuliaR said...

Hi! I'm back but now I have a stupid cold and am sidelined for about a week. I'll look you up when I get back to the gym, hopefully this week some time. I have so much to do but all I want right now is to have a nap. You can check out our vacation at the following:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliar/sets/72157605318814586/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/bikeriders/collections/72157605286932384/

http://juliaringma.blogspot.com/

and a little so far at my sewing blog. Enjoy!