Tuesday, March 13, 2007

Catching up...

I enjoyed a wonderful cup of tea and conversation with Kay Young, a fellow PR member last night. We evaluated a pair of stretch cords of hers and then we had some fun with the Cherry Blossom coat. Her pants fit well enough, but we came to the conclusion that a fish eye dart is warranted in both front and back. One thing that came to me on the way home is that she could also use some reshaping of the s.s. below the hips ... they seem to bag out like jodpurs almost. When it came to the coat, we both agreed that the pockets have to come off. As designed, they give the coat a homemade look, vice a quality image. Also, we figure that I can afford to take a good inch out of the s.s. and that I need to cut off the hem allowance on the lining as the coat hem length is just right once it is turned up. So, thanks, Kay for an enjoyable evening out and for an objective pair of eyes!

The dragon pants only need hemming to be completed. Tonight they will be done and a review posted before I go to bed. I still have some issues, but I think most of them are related to the fabric choice and slight sewing errors. More on that later!

The Silhouette trousers are cut out but in temporary holding pattern as I had to throw together a quick shirt muslin for the Pilot. I have spoken about my quest for a better fitting men's shirt before in a previous post, so I won't go into that part again here other than to give an update. After cutting out a size 42, I added 1" to the CB of the bodice and then sewed the rest as is. I knew that there would be places that were too small, but wasn't sure where to add, that is why I took the Pilot and Hamster Boy to Darrell Thomas Textiles where Darrell and I spent 20 minutes writing in marker all over my first attempt. He also corrected some of my misconceptions about men's shirts. I will never see the "perfect fit" that I get on my shirts on the Pilot. Turns out those wrinkles I hate at the armscye are actually needed. Ditto with the slightly lower shoulder seam. Yup, I let the Pilot actually say, in public, "I told you so!" I figure that I have to let him say it once in a long way to keep him content (hey it has worked for 18 years so far!).

With respect to the back pleats, Darrell told me that it would look better on Brian's broad back to have move the pleats from the sides (as stated on the pattern) to a single inverted pleat at CB. He says it would be so much more flattering for his back. The neckline will fit nicely on the Pilot's neck once I add a further 1" to the front of the shirt. Right now, the front is too tight. Why didn't I cut a larger size to begin with? Because the next size up on this pattern is only 1/4" larger at CF and the neckline and still would not have been enough for him. The next size range would result in losing the best fitting shoulder and necklines I have seen to date. So, Darrell, after rightly chastising me for not flat measuring my pattern, told me where I needed to add and how much (1" to the front, neckband and collar, 1/2" to the sleeve length, 1" in length @ CF, tapering to nothing at s.s.). The adjustments are fairly minor and this pattern fits so much nicer than the KS pattern I have been using. There is some nice s.s. shaping and the body is somewhat narrower in look but not in shape.

So, I have to do muslin #2 in a lighter weight fabric than the throw away piece I chose with the changes and then go for fitting #2 next weekend when the Pilot is home again. We looked at fabrics as well and the Pilot has chosen a few of Darrell's nice Italian cottons for purchase once we have the fit down. Once we get Darrell's nod on the fit, I will buy fabric # 1 and spend a day in May with Darrell at my side as we sew up this shirt. Although I have made a few shorts before, I am looking forward to his supervision for technique and quality. He is a perfectionist who loves quality and he is such a wonderful teacher that this will be so worth the $! This muslin is not worth a photo, but # 2 will get shots and a further review.

So, that is what I have been up to! Tomorrow we are off for the second half of Spring Break with the Pilot before he heads back to work. I see wizards, towers and trains in our future ... see you everybody later tonight for the Dragon!


Mary Beth said...

Ohhhh, goody! When I go back to HusPartner's shirts I'll reference the Darrell tips in this post. Kay Young and Darrell Thomas: Lorna, you've got lovely friends!!!

Anonymous said...

Lorna, Are you into wearable art? If so are you aware there is a wearable art group in Ottawa?